BukvaMan

I have an extra one... Well original. I could send it to you ...

Can you try disconnecting more fuses in the same manner... Maybe change some around with the same amparage.. There is one that resets the Ecu... Pretty much disconnect all the 30 40 amp ones and plug them back in. Well switch some the 40s around though... It seems to be working really really well for me.

I know you only did two of them... So please one last time

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

I would check the app sensor. I've seen instances where it was faulty and no codes were thrown

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

I would pay for it if it works.. if not ill just cover shipping and send it back, if your alright with that. Ill just get a new 40 and 30 amp for the VSA and new 40 for the ECU aswell.

Might jsut change it for shits and giggles.... Cant hurt right?

YeuEmMaiMai

have you hooked up a data scanner? Do that before you waste your money. you can get a BT one cheap and it will data log to your laptop. cost about $9 on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...0code%20reader

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

I will most likely order one of those as you mentioned. Acura data logged the car for over 30 miles while the problem was presented and did not get any kind of negative feedback from their program they use. They said all sensors were reading fine (Minus rear secondary O2 which was fixed).

Yikes

I stick to my guns. I say you should rent a timing light gun from advanced auto parts and check timing.

A buddy had a slight hesitation in his ls/vtec that he had a hard time replicating and at the end of the day, his timing was a tooth or two off.

He went through just about everything. Plugs, tranny fluid, cleaned the tb, everything.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

Good advice..

The car was acting up a few weeks before the timing belt kit from Acura though... ): I just did it because my oil-pump was leaking. I got it all replaced.

pbook4g5

Timing light isn't needed to check timing. Just pull the covers off and look at the marks and see if they line up.

Timing lights are typically for cars with distributors so you can set ignition timing. This isn't one of those situations.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

Maybe there is a small person hiding in my engine bay pinching my fuel lines every once in a while just to mess with me. Seems legit...

YeuEmMaiMai

I would be impressed if his timing was 1 tooth off and there was no engine damage....

data logging should reveal if there is a fuel delivery issue as you will see it when the A/F reading goes nuts and your injector duty cycle changes to compensate.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

Well, Acura datalogged for 30 miles on 2 different occasions and said everything looked fine... I am going to buy my own OBDII port data logger though and take a look for myself.

BukvaMan

ok a little update on my part... I removed both VSA fuses to disable the system and the car has been driving without any problems at all. As a matter of fact Im so eager to take it for a drive as its so much lighter on its feet and has so much more low end power. Its very eager to accelerate and downshift when desired. Just great

So in my case it definitively has something to do with that stupid VSA MODULATOR, the other problem is that it is a freaking expensive part just to replace .... Im gonna have to dig in further but it looks like 99% is where the culprit is ...

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

Does your car ever do it when its cold, like after sitting all night? Mine wont until its completely warmed up. Almost seems like its a vacuum leak at the manifold or the MAP sensor is heating up and starting to read wrong. Might clean it tomorrow and see what we get from there...

pbook4g5

If it was your VSA Modulator, wouldn't turning VSA off via the switch work?

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

I've tried to mess with my VSA fuses and turning it off and it did nothing for me. My problem must not be within the VSA system.

I am currently cleaning the top O2 sensors front and rear as well as taking apart the APP sensor and MAP sensor for a good cleaning of both. Waiting on my TB gasket so I can take that off as-well and give it a nice scrub down.

BukvaMan

Be careful when you are cleaning the throttle body.... There is high chance that you're going to mess up idle. And also the map sensor cant be cleaned so dont mess with it, i did and ended up buying a new sensor

Did you try driving with the VSA fuses disconnected ??

pbook4g5

How will you clean the APP sensor? What needs to be cleaned? And yeah, don't clean the MAP sensor.

Jackass

APP is sealed as far as I know. The only "cleaning" you can do is lubing up the cable and tightening up the cable.

Just an FYI, my APP sensor never threw codes. It just made my car very very difficult to drive around town. My symptoms were not the same as yours though. Mine was just very jumpy in the lower throttle ranges and made taking off smoothly in 1st and 2nd impossible.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

I am just checking the APP assembly to make sure cable has no slack and everything is ok with it.

On the bright side, car made it to the top of the mountains!

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

So the temperature has dropped ALOT here in D.C. and I thought it would help. The car still acts up really bad and sluggish as normal after 10-15 minutes of driving. Starting to really make me wonder... I have heard alot of "Have to checked compression?" lately.. any input on this idea?

pbook4g5

Compression test wouldn't hurt, but if you're motor runs fine some times and not others, chances are the compression is ok. But it couldn't hurt.

pbook4g5

Oh, and I've read you still haven't changed the APP. I mean... if you're gonna drop money on a compression test, at least drop some money on the APP sensor, too.

Numerous people have said they noticed an immediate difference with a new APP sensor, and their old ones threw NO codes. So, it really is worth a shot.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

I am going to pick one up out of a 2006 base today from a salvage yard just to test.. if it works im going to buy a new one. My IAT sensor arrives today as well. Hopefully I see some kind of improvement. I am returning car back to its stock form this weekend also.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

Little update. I installed my new IAT sensor. The old one had about 1/16th inch of black soot on it. Upon changing it I immediately got a P0113 code (IAT Sensor low voltage). I erased the code and its been a few miles without coming back in. I also threw a code (Before touching the IAT) which was P0498 (EVAP low voltage). I am kind of excited because I have been waiting for it to throw a code. I did some researching and did not find and actual articles about P0498 or to what could be the problem. I had a bad EVAP system on my old mustang and it made it run pretty sluggish. Do you guys think this might be my problem? EVAP system?!

I am still in shock that my IAT was completely covered in black soot. I will upload a picture shortly.

pbook4g5

i used to get the IAT code everytime I touched the sensor. They're sensitive.

nist7

Best of luck to ya, that is a beautiful car.

That tab didn't seem to bad for a TL-S. I just bought a 2006 TL and looking through the receipts the owner paid $3000 in 2011 for the 105k service (timing belt, tranny fluid, oil change, fuel injector cleaning, motor mount replacement)

Quick question, you were actually able to find a 3g TL in a junk yard?!??!

That is awesome. I've been to junk yards before and they are mostly filled with old POS cars. Didn't know they would have late gen TLs in there.

My car does need a few parts fixed (hood support, DVD navigation drive is broke, rear seats are a bit discolored if I can find matching color though that is unlikely)

so I'm gonna head down to my local junk yard to see!

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

If you go to a legit salvage yard with newer wrecked cars you will find them alot. THere was 4 of them in the yard I went to. I didnt pull any APP or MAP sensors though, they were already gone ): Thanks for the compliments though!

nist7

Hmm I will have to do some more research in my local junk yards.

But yeah if you're not lucky and get there the first or second day the car arrives, it's probably gonna be picked pretty clean.

I'm gonna do the DIY DVD drive cleaning method tonight. Hopefully I can find junked TLs with the dvd drive still in the trunk if the DIY method does not work.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

So, changed the IAT sensor and the problem is still there.
Next on my list is the APP sensor and I am going to attempt to clean the MAP sensor although I do not believe my MAP is the problem here.

pbook4g5

Yeah I think you're going in the reverse order of what me and others have thought.

Although I think the MAP sensor could have something to do with it. What are you going to clean in with?

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

The reasoning of me going with the IAT then the MAP THEN the APP is because when the car is acting up, I can hear the note of the engine and exhaust change. This is leading me to believe the car is either running a bit rich or not enough fuel. The APP doesnt have any input on fuel trims, or timing. The IAT and MAP do.

I am just going to try pulling it and using MAF sensor cleaner sparingly on it.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

Also, I am ordering new IM gaskets. Someone before mentioned possible IM leak. I am going to change the knock sensor while this is happening too.

This will leave me with just the MAP sensor and the APP sensor to change. Hopefully I am going to narrow this stupid problem down!! On the bright side, car runs a little bit better with the new IAT sensor.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

So I pulled a "EVAP" code today that was stored. No CEL was on, but I pulled it with a scanner. I mentioned that my gas cap light comes on everytime the car starts to run bad. I reached out to a local certified Honda shop and explain my problems. He suggested that maybe the EVAP Purge Canister is acting up once completely warmed up and allowing too many fumes into the intake manifold thus making the car run rich.
I know I am running rich because my exhaust note changes and the car backfires alot when its acting up. I wonder if this guy just hit it on the nail?

pbook4g5

My Accord used to run pig rich and it never had these issues. Some of us on here who have these intermittent power loss issues actually think the car is leaning out instead of going rich.

Although that is an interesting theory your mechanic has, but these cars can deal with the extra fuel (in my experience).

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

This whole thing is really starting to bug me. I am pretty patient when it comes to issues as I know I will most likely resolve them within a reasonable amount of time.

This car has been to two different dealerships, and an independent mechanic who all were left scratching their heads. I am currently 3,000$ in the hole for what were explained to me as "possible fixes".

How can a car with so many sensors not trip a CEL for a problem that is making the car lose at least 50-60% of its power. Better than that is how can dealership sell a car then turn around and not be able to diagnose a problem?! The very first thing the mechanic told me when I got there was "are you sure you don't have anything stuck under your pedal?".... seriously?

I don't even know what to do anymore about it. I am not getting any answers from the "professionals". This thread has had outstanding feedback just hasn't been able to pinpoint my problem. First and last Acura I'll ever own.

pbook4g5

Yeah my car has been very similar (although not as bad as yours I suspect). My Accord had none of these issues. Literally... none. Almost the same damn platform, too.

Hope the APP sensor clears it up for you. You really have nothing left to change, right?

And yours is AT or MT (I can't remember)?

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

AT.

I just find it hard to believe its the APP sensor. There isnt really any surging or anything. The car doesn't do it all the time either. It will randomly go away.. I don't have much more to change. I am changing the knock sensor, app sensor, EVAP purge canister and all intake and exhaust gaskets tomorrow.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

Time for update. Today I replaced the APP sensor and the EVAP Purge canister. These did nothing for the problem. I then proceeded to rip the entire intake manifold off to access the knock sensor and upon doing so I immediately noticed one of the holes for cylinder #1 was completely dry and was shiny like it was brand new. All the other 5 ports were COVERED in black soot where you could scrape it off with your fingernail. This immediately threw up a red flag to me. I appeared that cylinder was not getting fuel and it just scorched it all the way through the runners and intake manifold. I am guessing from my knowledge that the fuel injector isnt working or is clogged or something of that nature. There was NO residue of anything in that port on the intake manifold. So it appears this is my problem.

It just so happen that there was a complete 3.5 from an '05 RL sitting in the back that uses the same exact injectors. I verified this through the dealership and the numbers match also.

Upon reinstalling everything we noticed when priming the fuel system, it is squirting fuel in between the rail and the injector that we replaced. I will be back at it tomorrow to see if we accidentally ripped a seal on the fuel rail there the injector plugs into it. If this is not the case, idk where to go from here. Thought I would update everyone.

Other thing is I hope I didnt ruin my cylinder with it not injecting fuel and just overheating and probably burning it up. I couldnt believe the dealership at 2weeks couldnt figure this out.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

Update. Cleaned my intake manifold out, replaced the faulty injector that was leaking. Issue still there. Next to replace is coil and sparkplug. Can anyone chime in on what would cause the intake port to be completely clean unlike the other 5? Is this a lack of fuel, or lack of spark?

BukvaMan

My intake is the same way, i could show you pictures if you dont belive me. I found that funny as well but Ive seen other people on here where the manifold and the runner looked the same like in your case.... its pretty much normal.

There is nothing wrong with your injector or your ignition coil... ive been there done that and just wasted money.

Since the app sensor didnt solve your problem It has to be your throttle body sticking or just not functioning properly...

get a used one on the black market, there is a guy selling one and give it a try..