First off, I have been searching around in this forum and elsewhere but haven't found me an answer so I decided to create a thread instead.

I have an 05 TL which I changed the rear (both side) pads + rotors + e-brake shoes. It had been running fine for the pass couple of months until last Friday. When I get home from work, I can smell the burning brake or so on one of the wheel. I investigated it and the odor gets pretty strong when I smelled one of the wheel, I tried to feel it and the rim (yes the rim) so hot that I couldn't even keep it there for more than 2 second. I thought a rock or something got stuck in there somewhere and caused friction and opened it next morning.

When I jacked up the car, the wheel spun freely with a subtle (normal) friction noise. I took the wheel off and everything seem to be normal. I then took the caliper off too and was able to retract the piston with ease. I had no issue took the pads off with my bare hands either. Continue on, I also removed the rotor and it came out smooth. Not a lot of brake dust or anything like that. I put the rotor back on and testing out the e-brake and it works fine. I put everything back and drove around the block and seems fine.

This morning when I took the car to work, it happened again. Have any of you experienced on this issue before? And what are your thought on this?

Thanks.

 

Make certain that the sliders and every part is clean and lubricated.
Guess it might be an internal break in the rubber brake hose, but normally if a caliper problem, or the hose is compromised, the piston will not move inward easily as the fluid is restricted. Get an infrared thermometer and check the temps on each rotor, but if the smell of burning pads are noticeable, I'd say that you've found the correct problem corner.

Last week had a car that the left rear pads were dragging and it was nothing more than removing the pads, clean and lube the retainers and the problem was corrected.

 

Sounds like you have a sticky caliper or there is something else happening. You might want to buy/borrow a temperature tool to see which side of the wheel is hottest and that might be a clue for which side to focus on.

Did you lube the pins? If not, that's probably your problem.

 

Funny thing I didn't mention, it was the driver's rear wheel that has the issue. I will open it again and try to lube everything up again.

Let me making sure, the pins you're mentioning about are the bolts for the caliper right?

 

Make certain the pad retainers are clean and lubed. The caliper bolts are tightened into the caliper pins and the pins should be clean, lubed, move freely, and the boots in good shape. The 2 pins are different.

 

Had same issue on my 04 TL replaced pads/rotor no change. I ended up just getting a new caliper for driver's side, issue solved.

 

I am not new to these stuffs, but I don't work on these everyday either. However, I just want to make sure I get it right. I am not sure with your last sentence about "The 2 pins are different". Can you elaborate?

Cherplex: I will sure have to look into that if it still occurs after the clean up and lubing.

 

I had this or a very similar issue. It did not go away after replacing calipers and rotors (which I was upgrading at the same time). It went away when I also had the hoses replaced. You didn't mention you replaced the lines. As suggested in other threads, the hoses might look fine but could be collapsing internally and binding the caliper. If you're still on the original hoses, may want to try that. Not too expensive to upgrade to stainless while you're at it. Be careful during install not to crush it, or else you might have the same problem and not solve anything.

FWIW...YMMV

 

The pins that the caliper bolts into are different so if you remove them to clean/lube, make certain they return into the same position. Don't know if it would make a difference if they were reversed and don't know why they would be different, but they are different part numbers.

 

Thanks guys.

So, I took the whole thing apart and my guts told me that the steel tensioner rubbed against the rotor. The tensioner looked warped and burnt out from being too hot on the second time. Since they're all out, I took the pads to Autozone and have them replaced (under warranty) to the new pads (yes, I took the other side off too). Fixed the tensioner and made sure it's not touching anything, drove it to work yesterday and everything was just warm like it should be.


Funny thing, my mom's 2002 CR-V also having thermal issue to one of the rear wheel. Long story short, the caliper was dead and I replaced it with the new one last night.


Here's what I learned from the experiences. Napa carries little items like those caliper pin bushings where as the others, you have to buy the whole caliper to get the rubber bushings. The 2002 CR-V (probably most CR-V) and the 3rd Gen TL have the same rear brakes.

 

Hahaha I remembered and felt stupid after asking you to elaborate. For some reason I kept thinking of something else.

 

don't forget to put anti seize on the brake pad ears where they slide on the shims. will help keep them from squeaking and possibly binding up..