bkwill

My oil pan drain threads are completely stripped as the plug will barely stay in.
I want it fixed and I want it fixed right. What are my options?

I called the local Honda dealer (closest Acura dealer is 90 minutes away) and they said I'd need a new oil pan as the heli coil only will hold for one oil change due to the aluminum pan. I don't think it's aluminum, but that's what they told me. Labor to insall new pan, $290.
I don't mind going this route, if it's my only true option to repair the issue.

I could probably force a larger plug into the hole, rethreading it, but that would only last until the next oil change.

I would think the heli coil should hold up as I don't think the pan is aluminum. It is a soft metal, but it shouldn't have that much change in shape to cause it not to hold up...

Any thoughts ...


Thanks,
Will

flyromeo3

if its as easy as it was in my audi, I'd go ahead and purchase the pan and replace myself.
might be around 20 bolts or so holding it down.

someone should chim in with a more exact response.

JETSPD1477

The pan is aluminum.

heli-coil would work fine. best practice has you taking off the oil pan to tap for the heli-coil.

for me. either way the oil pan is coming off.

ez12a

fixed "right" is replacing the oil pan. But doing a helicoil and then using something like a fumoto valve should work too. Never touch your pan threads again with a valve.

bkwill

First, sorry I posted this in the wrong section.

Thanks everyone for the input. I was afraid it would need a new pan.

And I wasn't sure how the heli coil would work without taking the pan off. Wouldn't shavings end up in the bottom of the pan if you didn't take it off?

I'm def. going to get the fumoto with the new pan.

pohljm

You could always retap it for use with a slightly larger bolt and not have to purchase a new pan.

94eg!

You can custom-make a slightly longer drain plug and it should work fine. This guy has lots of Honda related videos on his website:

JETSPD1477

awesome

SouthernBoy

Hint: Torque wrench is your friend.

I hate cars

Helicoil is stronger than the original threads. I automatically helicoil certain aluminum items when brand new such as my aluminum heads just to gain that strength.

bkwill

Agreed, but I can't take credit for this one...

I like the custom made bolt idea and I might try that. But what about getting a slightly larger fumoto drain valve and trying that as an option?

As long as it seals I don't have to worry about taking the drain back out and I'd still be able to change my oil. I would only be out about $35.00.

Any thoughts on that...

SouthernBoy

You do have several options available to you. Re-threading your pan for a larger drain plug, the valve replacement, heli-coil, or a whole new pan.

If you don't mind my asking, how did this happen? Was it a quicky oil change shop, an auto shop, yourself, or a prior owner? Stuff does happen and it's a shame someone down stream has to deal with it.

SatinSilverAV6

iTrader: (2)

I re-threaded my pan with a larger bolt. WOrked like a charm. 7 years ago and still good!

94eg!

How do you keep shaving from getting left behind inside the oil pan?

bkwill

Thanks for the info Satin, I'm leaning towards that at this point. I figure what's the worse I can do to the pan ... end up replacing it.
Southern, it was a quicky shop. I had to go out of town for a family emergency and it was also time for service. I headed to the quicky shop and went over what needed to be done. After the service, the tech mentioned they replaced the drain plug because one corner was rounded. Fast forward to two weeks ago, I went to change and figured it would be tough to get off since they torque the shit out of those things for some reason, but it wasn't...
It literally broke free with minimal force and it was immediately lose-I knew that wasn't good.
I changed the oil and noticed a few shavings in the pan that looked like threads. Drove the car a few days and was just getting in it to head to the airport 80 miles away and my fiance notice a decent sized puddle of oil under the car.
When I got back home from my trip, I drained the oil only to find the plug was just as lose and had more threads in the grooves. The plug does get firm, but not tight, then gets lose again, so it's defintely stripped.
My car is now in the garage, with no oil, waiting for me to figure out a solution...
I'm not mad, but it kinda sucks. I'm sure the new drain bolt was the right size, but probably not specific to Honda/Acura and cut new threads.

SouthernBoy

To do a correct re-thread, one should remove the pan and give it a thorough cleaning before and after the re-thread while inspecting the newly threaded hole for shavings.

SouthernBoy

Such is the problem with the quicky oil change shops. They don't care and are not about to use a torque wrench I would bet. Hitting that bolt with 60-80 ft/lbs when it is suppose to take 29 ft/lbs ain't doing it any favors.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Coat the tap with heavy grease and remove often.

SpiderX1016

You can use a timesert.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

And if it were me and I had to remove the pan anyway, I would spend the $100 and just replace it.

bkwill

I'm strongly leaning towards a new pan with the fumoto valve.
I really would like to stick with the pan for the PITA and cost, but I'd worry there some shavings left behind either from the orignal strip, or any re-threading. So, it looks like the pan is coming off.

Anyone local to me wanna help!? lol I'll supply food and drink(s) of your choice! I just know I'm getting to the age where working on your back sucks.

kaza

This is how I was taught to do it at a large HONDA dealer, never had a problem with one coming back. Used a time-sert after.

Stoianoff31

take it to a shop for an oil change then blame it on them lol

94eg!

Dealership shops aren't anything special. Only difference is they have the original shop manual.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

It's really not that hard. Just make sure to figure out how to snake it in before you apply the hondabond. It drops out much easier than it goes back in. Note it BEFORE it drops out so you don't do like I did and have to figure out the puzzle.

And they do things as quickly and cheaply as possible.

SouthernBoy

I agree.

johnny3

If I had one of those oil change quick shops I'd post a big sign for the public to see reading "NO IMPACT TOOLS USED" or something like that, those "mechanics" they use stick the drain plug bolt in the socket & just start the impact gun spinning without screwing it in straight with their fingers, zips the threads right out of the aluminun pan.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

The lesson is, don't use those quick change shops.

Why anyone would use an impact gun to put in a drain bolt is beyond me. It takes all of 1 minute to put in the bolt by hand including threading it all the way down to the crush washer and then cinching it down.

I don't use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt and have never stripped one out. If you replace the washer a every change, it allows enough give to prevent it.

ez12a

werd. they should ban air tools at quick lube places. Why you'd even need one doing an oil change is beyond me.

DMZ

I've never heard of using an air gun on an oil drain plug. FUCKIN DOPES!

Those types places tend to hire minimum wage illiterate mechanic wanna-bees to do the work anyway. Part of the reason why their prices are so cheap. If any shop stripped my oil drain plug, I'd make damn well make sure to hold them responsible for the repair. And I'd become their worst nightmare to see that that happens.
.
.

94eg!

These are called teenagers.

bkwill

Update, I went the longer bolt route. I found a 14mmX1.5X25mm long. It's just over twice the length of the drain plug so I didn't need to modify it. It wasn't an easy bolt to find as I had to go to an automotive fastner speciality store, but they had it.
Bolt drew in nice, and tightened down. Best part- no leaks at this point.

I'll update when I need to take it out for an oil change...

KidChenz89

iTrader: (1)

does anyone have the torque specs for the pan?

CrazyEights

iTrader: (1)

On this edition of old thread bump, here to show that this is actually true for our 3G TL's.

On the left is the OEM drain plug and on the right is the oversized one I got for ~$5 at Autozone.



Sadly, I can't locate the picture that actually shows the extra threading in our oil pans or the beautiful ring left from a impact gun some @$$hat used on mine, but I assure you, the extra threading is there to achieve 29 ft/lb's of grab.

i_TL

iTrader: (4)

I had to purchase a new oil pan, havent got a chance to do it yet, i heard is a pita to replace...

pool4eva

i got mine re-threaded because i got lazy and went to those quick stop oil changing places. They eventually stripped it. After i got the fix from my mechanic, I only let him do my oil changes. One more strip and i would have to get a new oil pan.

nak3791

I know this is a very old thread but I posted a new one and haven't gotten a reply on it yet and really need some information as soon as possible. I need to replace my oil pan because it is stripped and needs a new gasket. I have a chilton book and there are so many things it says you have to remove including raising the engine up. Has anyone else done this and know of an easier way?

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

All you should have to remove is the j-pipe and the bolts holding the pan in place

nak3791

That's what I thought. I don't get why chillin aays you have to do all of that. I will try it. Thank you.

thoiboi

I use a Fumoto valve