The other day while driving, vsa and ABS Lights popped up, then the car went into a deep struggle mode, not limp mode, worse than that. It lasted about 10 minutes then disappeared on its own.

I checked voltage at battery(2 different set of multimeters) and got good numbers, alternator monitor via obd2 pro scanner also reported everything to the alternator to be ok. But it reports battery as low voltage(11.82v), hows that so? Some bad wiring somewhere? No codes are stored in the ecu except for the following abs/dtc codes:

44-21: Left rear wheel lock(permanent)
83-13: ECM/PCM Relation failure(Permanent)
61-01: Modulator - Control Unit Initial IG Low voltage(permanent)
61-22: Modulator - Control Unit power source Low voltage(permanent)

ive always used the cheap obd2 scanner so didn’t even know there were some codes(dtc) not accessible unless you had a pro version. So I don’t know how long these codes have been there. I assume there’s some relationship to the failure I’ve seen and the codes. Any tips on where to start? Do I just go and swap out all the failures or is there some dependency here that’s causing these failures?

Background:
- new battery installed a few months ago
- new starter installed a few months ago
- new APP sensor installed a few months ago
- 260K KMs(160K Miles) on the odo
- no other major work done recently
- still on original alternator
- serpentine belt looks fine, no squeals either
- HFL disconnected years ago

 

The low voltage reading should be your starting point.

1. Check that the voltage at the main power fuse in the underhood fuse box is the same as the voltage across the battery.
2. Check the ground cable

No. It sounds like a electrical power problem.

 

Have you disconnected the HFL?
That would explain alot...

 

Thanks, will poke around there tmr, when the weather is nicer.

 

yep, disconnected it years ago, it's in my OP

 

Oh sorry, skimmed right to the end and missed that, LOL
Are you using only the scanner to read the voltage? Sometimes the OBD port/adapter has a different V reading than the battery.
Also check the negative and postive battery cables.

 

cables are clean at battery posts. Took some more pics. I disconnected my dashcam that was connected to the cigarette lighter port in the arm rest after my drive. That can’t draw power when car is off right? I also cleared the abs codes, hasn’t come back up yet. Will continue to monitor the situation. Btw I didn’t know how to check the power at the main fuse box. Do I have to go under the box or something?



Key is not in ignition

Ignition on position II for obd2 scanner

Ignition on position II for obd2 scanner

After a 10 min drive

 

Get your battery and alternator tested.

What is the charging voltage when the car is running?

 

I don't think it's either of those. Battery voltage while car is running = 15.25V. During start-up, it never dipped below 10.85V. Alternator test as per obd2 scanner passed w/o any issues either. I'm wondering if my dashcam could've been flakey and started eating up my power like the HLF module, but doubt that the cigarette port is even active after car shuts off...

 

Your battery is reading 12.8V then 11.8V after key on?

Edit: your getting 15.25V running? That is too high and may have damaged your battery. Voltage regulator may be bad and now you need to test the alternator and then most likely a new battery.

 

yea, 12.8V ish when car was off, but at times i seen it as low as 12.25 as well, so it seems to be a bit random, is that normal? 11.8V with key in on position, but not engine running, obd2 scanner picks up battery voltage at 11.55 ish at that time. Everything seems to be running ok though since Sunday, no codes, no sluggish-ness. It's a costco battery, so I can swap it out w/o issues, but want to be certain before I go through that hassle in this cold!

 

Have you checked under the red positive terminal rubber post cover? Assuming you still have it, there should be alot of potassium hydroxide from the overcharge. If you do, carefully clean it, it's toxic.

 

nope, terminals are clean!

 

Like WDPanda pointed out, that charging voltage seems too high.

Why are you so insistent on not testing your alternator and battery?

Even new parts can be defective out of the box.

 

I’m not hesitant, I’ve already tested both of those via the scanner. Battery I’ll replace this weekend. But then again the problem never Creeped back up since originally posting.

My question is if the dash cam could eat power while the car is off? I’ve disconnected that so I wonder if that could be the culprit if the above is true.

 

That's not a good test. You have to put a load on them to properly test them.

You're going to have to do a parasitic draw test to determine if there something draining your battery, but you won't find anything if the problem has gone away.

 

Yea it’s just so strange and random. Hopefully it doesn’t come back! Thanks all for the help! I’ll monitor the voltage range during startup with a new battery.

 

Resurrecting this thread since the DTC codes listed are almost identical to some "permanent" ones I have on both my 07 & 08 TL's. I just got a new scanner (Innova 3160RS). As someone mentioned earlier in the thread, I too have the HFL disconnected on both of these vehicles. If that's the source of these "permanent" codes, great, but I still wish there was a way to clear them?

2007 ACURA ODB2 STORED DTC CODES

ABS MEMORY
83-14 PERMANENT
ECM/PCM Relation Failure
61-1 PERMANENT
Modulator-Control Unit Initial IG Low Voltage
61-23 PERMANENT
Modulator-Control Unit Power Source Low Voltage

2008 ACURA ODB2 STORED DTC CODES

ABS MEMORY
81-23 PERMANENT
CPU Internal Circuit Malfunction
61-1 PERMANENT
Modulator-Control Unit Initial IG Low Voltage
61-23 PERMANENT
Modulator-Control Unit Power Source Low Voltage

 

Everything I've read said that "permanent" DTC codes can't be erased and the only way to clear them is if the vehicle runs the same test after the issue has been fixed that it will clear them on its own. This doesn't appear to be accurate. I used my new scanner and it seems to have successfully cleared the above errors for the 2007. That is, I erased them and then ran a full scan again and they didn't resurface. Even though they are listed as "permanent," many of these codes were triggered by some temporary event way back when, but it seems they stay stored in the modules until one tries to manually clear them. Will try the same on the 2008 and report back later.

 

Looks like the same deal on the 2008: a bunch of old "permanent" codes that don't appear after an erase.