Starting Problems?
Starting Problems?
Anyone out there having any intermittent problems with starting? I have had some problems when I start my TL. Sometimes it cranks way too long. I have to stop cranking and start it again. It always starts no problem, after I start it again but it just bugs me !! Sometimes when it starts it takes a second to come up to idle speed.....the idle seems to "flutter" for a second before it idle's correctly.
Mine does this all the time... apparently,so do many other TL's. I literally have identical symptoms. Someone stated in a previous thread that it may be due to the ULEV rating of the engine.
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
Really??!
Things you need to know
• At times, the engine may take longer to start than usual; the engine management software is working to reduce emissions at startup.
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I just picked up my TL today, and had this (poor starting) happen several times. A few times I had to try to start it twice to get it running.
I've driven other ULEV vehicles that have had no such problem so I have a hard time accepting the excuse. This is supposed to be a high quality vehicle, but is just not well sorted out yet. My first day has been full of problems (I have another post going trying to figure out how to program the Homelink).
I've driven other ULEV vehicles that have had no such problem so I have a hard time accepting the excuse. This is supposed to be a high quality vehicle, but is just not well sorted out yet. My first day has been full of problems (I have another post going trying to figure out how to program the Homelink).
Same thing here!
Has anybody taken this up with their dealer? Can anything be done? It's very strange & un nerving to have this happening. It doesn't always do it. Today the attendant in the garage I park in told me it happened to him when he was geting my car. He thought I had a power failure!
My wife says the same thing about not accepting the starting problem !!!!!! Homelink was kind of a pain in the @ss but I did finally get it sorted out...........If I can do it you should be able to !!!
Originally Posted by TLLove
Has anybody taken this up with their dealer? Can anything be done? It's very strange & un nerving to have this happening. It doesn't always do it. Today the attendant in the garage I park in told me it happened to him when he was geting my car. He thought I had a power failure! 

i've been to the dealer 3 times about this problem....on all three ocasions they've kept it all day and they say that they haven't been able to duplicate the problem...so they told me that no problem exists...
they also told me that if there were an ignition problem the car's computer would say so....
one of the service guys told me that im experiencing the faulty start up because im not letting the imobolizer start up properly....
when u put ur key into the car , u'll see this green key symbol light go on ur dash...he told me to wait for that to dissappear before you fully turn the key....after doing that...i dont experience the problem as frequently...but it still does exist...also...the previous model of the TL had a recall of the ignition system...i hope the new one doesnt have the same problems...
Yikes! HomeLink is a problem? Acura pre-empts an owner's concern about occasional long cranking times with full disclosure and that is a negative? I do not get you guys sometimes. It is whine and cheese...
Look at the positive - the car will have full oil pressure when it finally lights up.
Anyway, under what circumstances does the long-cranking occur? I am guessing it is a hot re-start.
Look at the positive - the car will have full oil pressure when it finally lights up. Anyway, under what circumstances does the long-cranking occur? I am guessing it is a hot re-start.
Originally Posted by Road Rage
Yikes! HomeLink is a problem? Acura pre-empts an owner's concern about occasional long cranking times with full disclosure and that is a negative? I do not get you guys sometimes. It is whine and cheese...
Look at the positive - the car will have full oil pressure when it finally lights up.
Anyway, under what circumstances does the long-cranking occur? I am guessing it is a hot re-start.
Look at the positive - the car will have full oil pressure when it finally lights up. Anyway, under what circumstances does the long-cranking occur? I am guessing it is a hot re-start.
Coupla things:
1) I guesssed hot start - I think the system is dealing with gas volatility and trying to ensure that a minimum of unburnt fuel is released into the cat - in the long run, that is good for the air and your car.
2) Here is a tip which really is a tip for everyone for every start. Turn the key to on, but wait a second until you hear the fuel pump cut off - that means the fuel rail is fully pressuruzed, and the car should start right up, for a cold start. It may also reduce the longer crank times during a #1.
1) I guesssed hot start - I think the system is dealing with gas volatility and trying to ensure that a minimum of unburnt fuel is released into the cat - in the long run, that is good for the air and your car.
2) Here is a tip which really is a tip for everyone for every start. Turn the key to on, but wait a second until you hear the fuel pump cut off - that means the fuel rail is fully pressuruzed, and the car should start right up, for a cold start. It may also reduce the longer crank times during a #1.
Originally Posted by Road Rage
Coupla things:
1) I guesssed hot start - I think the system is dealing with gas volatility and trying to ensure that a minimum of unburnt fuel is released into the cat - in the long run, that is good for the air and your car.
2) Here is a tip which really is a tip for everyone for every start. Turn the key to on, but wait a second until you hear the fuel pump cut off - that means the fuel rail is fully pressuruzed, and the car should start right up, for a cold start. It may also reduce the longer crank times during a #1.
1) I guesssed hot start - I think the system is dealing with gas volatility and trying to ensure that a minimum of unburnt fuel is released into the cat - in the long run, that is good for the air and your car.
2) Here is a tip which really is a tip for everyone for every start. Turn the key to on, but wait a second until you hear the fuel pump cut off - that means the fuel rail is fully pressuruzed, and the car should start right up, for a cold start. It may also reduce the longer crank times during a #1.
if any of you ever feel a slight need to further your knowledge in automobile technica, head on over to s2ki and search for road rage.. his posts and his knowledge is boundless and priceless.
ok ok enough of the kiss assing!! hey RR, quickie.. can le607 make you violently ill? i, and another member experienced head/body aches, cold chills, and general flu symtoms minus the stuffy nose and cough thing for a few days after an unforunate differential change
. i dont have a quart in front of me.. can you see if theres a warning label on it somewhere? or do you know if amasol is bad for you if it gets on your skin or are subject to inhale it for extended periods of time?
Originally Posted by Road Rage
Coupla things:
1) I guesssed hot start - I think the system is dealing with gas volatility and trying to ensure that a minimum of unburnt fuel is released into the cat - in the long run, that is good for the air and your car.
2) Here is a tip which really is a tip for everyone for every start. Turn the key to on, but wait a second until you hear the fuel pump cut off - that means the fuel rail is fully pressuruzed, and the car should start right up, for a cold start. It may also reduce the longer crank times during a #1.
1) I guesssed hot start - I think the system is dealing with gas volatility and trying to ensure that a minimum of unburnt fuel is released into the cat - in the long run, that is good for the air and your car.
2) Here is a tip which really is a tip for everyone for every start. Turn the key to on, but wait a second until you hear the fuel pump cut off - that means the fuel rail is fully pressuruzed, and the car should start right up, for a cold start. It may also reduce the longer crank times during a #1.
I move the key to the on position too, after reading this long ago, no difference, I even removed all my other keys to make sure the immobilizer was not interfered with (per the regional's request) and that did not fix it.
I have found no common thread as to why and when it happens, sorry Road Rage.
Originally Posted by bkw
you people here have no idea how lucky you are that you have this man as an active memeber.
if any of you ever feel a slight need to further your knowledge in automobile technica, head on over to s2ki and search for road rage.. his posts and his knowledge is boundless and priceless.
if any of you ever feel a slight need to further your knowledge in automobile technica, head on over to s2ki and search for road rage.. his posts and his knowledge is boundless and priceless.
Nice to see a fellow s2ki member on these boards.
I don't know why there is so many replies to this thread. The fourth reply to this thread was right. It clearly says in the manual that it is normal for the car to experience long starts, even as long as 15 seconds. I think people are looking for problems that aren't there. Read the manual. Ohh and so nobody replies and says "well it doesn't always do it" the manual says that it doesn't do it all the time. I find it takes a few seconds longer to start then normal when I've just driven the car aggressively by accelerating quickly and fast which is obviously causing higher emissions then normal driving therefore I thinks it's doing what it's suppose to do. The last part is just an educated guess not fact so don't quote me on it.
All I do is turn the key to the first position before it cranks and I wait for the gauges to all set - like the fuel guage, then I crank. Never had the problem after my first time in March.
I agree with TBone2004, if you could follow this, most of time you should have no problem. (When you key is in Ignition II, you will always hear sound like "shi...", it's like the fuel pump or something try to pressue up)
Plus, please make sure you crank it about 0.5~1 second instead of 0.2~0.5 second. (I saw one guy cranked it short and was afraid of buring out the ignition...
the short cranking motion will make your car even harder to start)
If you still have hard time to start it or you don't agree what ppl or the owner manual say, visit your dealer. Maybe they might find something weird insides your ignition system.
Plus, please make sure you crank it about 0.5~1 second instead of 0.2~0.5 second. (I saw one guy cranked it short and was afraid of buring out the ignition...
the short cranking motion will make your car even harder to start)If you still have hard time to start it or you don't agree what ppl or the owner manual say, visit your dealer. Maybe they might find something weird insides your ignition system.
I experienced this hard start once - when I test drove the TL for the first time (not the one I bought). Tbone is right - if you turn the key to the position when the gauges light up, buckle, and then start, you will not have a problem. At least, in my case this works 100%.
my problem is that the starter doesnt even engage on the first or second tries..then all of a sudden it does. I have tried all of the tips in here and every once in a while the same crap happens..wife is calling the dealer today
My 04 TL didn't start this morning. It has only 4500 miles on it. The dealer has it right now. It had to be towed away (sad site). Has anyone experiences your tl not starting at all. It wants to but it just never turns over. Hopefully I can get some resolution out of the dealer.
My 2003 Accord V6 does it too...
My 2003 Accord V6 had the ocassional hard start issue also. Always was able to start the engine on the 2nd attempt. I see this on my TL on rare occasions.
is this normal with alot of acuras, My Rsx is doind this. IT takes multiple starts and one time it started and the whole car was shaking because the engine started sputtering and then shut off.
Yes, it is normal in certain conditions - part of the ULEV system. It is covered in the Owner's Manual. I have never experienced it. RTFM!
FYI - many people do not know that a FI car can still be flooded, especially on hot re-starts where the proper procure is not followed. Hondas have a "clear flood" mode which cuts off all fuel to the injectors - this is enabled by pressing the acclerator to the floor and keeping it there while cranking. once the car starts, of course quickly release the pedal.
FYI - many people do not know that a FI car can still be flooded, especially on hot re-starts where the proper procure is not followed. Hondas have a "clear flood" mode which cuts off all fuel to the injectors - this is enabled by pressing the acclerator to the floor and keeping it there while cranking. once the car starts, of course quickly release the pedal.
Originally Posted by bkzjimmy
theres a thread that i started about this problem on the 2nd gen forum...cause my 2000 does the same this...wow honda cant fix this..they suck!
Have you tried the "pressurized" trick I posted previously in this thread? Hot starts can be a problem with any modern "lean burn" ULEV car, and keeping the fuel supply rail stoked can cut cranking times dramatically.
Originally Posted by Road Rage
Coupla things:
1) I guesssed hot start - I think the system is dealing with gas volatility and trying to ensure that a minimum of unburnt fuel is released into the cat - in the long run, that is good for the air and your car.
2) Here is a tip which really is a tip for everyone for every start. Turn the key to on, but wait a second until you hear the fuel pump cut off - that means the fuel rail is fully pressuruzed, and the car should start right up, for a cold start. It may also reduce the longer crank times during a #1.
1) I guesssed hot start - I think the system is dealing with gas volatility and trying to ensure that a minimum of unburnt fuel is released into the cat - in the long run, that is good for the air and your car.
2) Here is a tip which really is a tip for everyone for every start. Turn the key to on, but wait a second until you hear the fuel pump cut off - that means the fuel rail is fully pressuruzed, and the car should start right up, for a cold start. It may also reduce the longer crank times during a #1.
Try changing fuel. A new discount station opened in my town last year that had low introductory prices, so I started using their fuel in my '99 Civic Si. After awhile I noticed the car was hard starting whenever I used gas from that station, and no where else. I was on the verge of buying spark plugs (expensive for Si model) when I discovered the gasloine problem.
Originally Posted by pettydw
Try changing fuel. A new discount station opened in my town last year that had low introductory prices, so I started using their fuel in my '99 Civic Si. After awhile I noticed the car was hard starting whenever I used gas from that station, and no where else. I was on the verge of buying spark plugs (expensive for Si model) when I discovered the gasloine problem.
For those whose car won't turn over the first or second time: this is a problem completely unrelated to fuel, rail pressure, ULEV, etc. It is an electrical issue, possibly in the key security susyem and/or the ECM. The dealer is the place to go for remedy - if they cannot replicate it and try to blow you off, ask if they have a system commonly in use today - it is a device (I call it the field data capture device) that captures driveability events like the one you described, with all the related info: crank angle, fuel map settings, etc. It can then be downloaded and analyzed by the technician.
Originally Posted by jbmacle
My 04 TL didn't start this morning. It has only 4500 miles on it. The dealer has it right now. It had to be towed away (sad site). Has anyone experiences your tl not starting at all. It wants to but it just never turns over. Hopefully I can get some resolution out of the dealer.
Read https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=1#post1009715
Originally Posted by Road Rage
I had a 2000, 2001, 2002, and now a 2004 - none did it. It is unfortunate that you are having trouble - if you link me to your post, I would be delighted to see if a remedy comes to mind. I have had some luck in doing "virtual" repairs.
Have you tried the "pressurized" trick I posted previously in this thread? Hot starts can be a problem with any modern "lean burn" ULEV car, and keeping the fuel supply rail stoked can cut cranking times dramatically.
Have you tried the "pressurized" trick I posted previously in this thread? Hot starts can be a problem with any modern "lean burn" ULEV car, and keeping the fuel supply rail stoked can cut cranking times dramatically.
my problem is that the car will not even turn over the first few times. Took it to the dealer, they had it over the weekend and not one time did the car repeat the symptoms. Brought the car home last nite, and this morning tried to start and same ol shit. after about the 5th try it started. Could it be my (wireless) alarm system for the house interfering the the electronics???? I've had the car about 8 months now and this has only been happening the last month or so???

