Sqweaking Brakes
Sqweaking Brakes
Guys,
I read a few threads on here about noisy brakes but didn't find much in the way my specific problem.
I just replaced all my rotors (drilled/slotted) and pads and bedded them. Problem is I have a prononced sqeek/sqeak when coming to a slow stop.
Is this something that you guys have experienced with new pads and rotors? Is it something that will go away (Parts are now about 40 miles old)? It's been so long since I've done a brake service, but I'm sure I've never experienced this.
Thanks for any input...
Collin
Pads:
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=MNTXXTRP1
Rotors:
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=BPSPTROTR01
I read a few threads on here about noisy brakes but didn't find much in the way my specific problem.
I just replaced all my rotors (drilled/slotted) and pads and bedded them. Problem is I have a prononced sqeek/sqeak when coming to a slow stop.
Is this something that you guys have experienced with new pads and rotors? Is it something that will go away (Parts are now about 40 miles old)? It's been so long since I've done a brake service, but I'm sure I've never experienced this.
Thanks for any input...
Collin
Pads:
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=MNTXXTRP1
Rotors:
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=BPSPTROTR01
It takes about 500 miles for the rotors and pads to become fully bedded
What method did you use?
This one works well for most cars
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Some noise from hi-performance pads and rotors does happen, especially with drilled rotors
What method did you use?
This one works well for most cars
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Some noise from hi-performance pads and rotors does happen, especially with drilled rotors
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
It takes about 500 miles for the rotors and pads to become fully bedded
What method did you use?
This one works well for most cars
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Some noise from hi-performance pads and rotors does happen, especially with drilled rotors
What method did you use?
This one works well for most cars
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Some noise from hi-performance pads and rotors does happen, especially with drilled rotors
Thanks. I used the procedure supplied with the pads and rotors. Almost the same thing really, just some slight differences in listed speed. A few 40mph to almost stop runs and a few 70 to 30 runs followed by a cool down.
I guess I'll wait for a few more miles in it. Thanks again!
plan on needing to use those harder the the OE brakes- they like to be heated up and used as designed. Reduce speed in 20-30mph segments and let off the pedal- reduce more- roll thru green light or easily come to stop
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
It takes about 500 miles for the rotors and pads to become fully bedded
What method did you use?
This one works well for most cars
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Some noise from hi-performance pads and rotors does happen, especially with drilled rotors
What method did you use?
This one works well for most cars
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Some noise from hi-performance pads and rotors does happen, especially with drilled rotors
* Seal all brake ducts if any.
* Slowly engage brakes 6 to 8 times at medium speeds (60 - 80 mph). Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop.
* Increase speeds to simulate race conditions; allow 6 to 8 high pressure (about 500 psi) snubs at racing speed. Total engagements for Step 2 should be a maximum of 15 to 20.
* Remove brake duct seals. Allow the system to cool for about 15 minutes. Do not engage brakes while car is parked during cool down period.
That sounds like as good way to get arrested (for erratic driving/driving to endanger and speeding) for those who try that on the street.
This one is better (dispenses with the "simulate racing conditions" requirement), but could still result in a pullover and citation:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
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