The first time I tried to change my own oil I couldn't get the plug off. So I had to go to the dealer. The second time was flawless cause I got the correct size wrench. But now on the third time I have almost rounded the damn thing off. So here I am sitting In the Honda dealer to get a new plug and let them change my oil. So frustrating!!! What are these plugs made of anyways?! They seem to be made of some really soft metal. I never had this problem on any of my other cars.

 

did u buy a cheap wrench that doesnt really fit the head? (I mean cheaper then harbor freight stuff) If it really is a soft bolt order a new bolt.

 

You're probably over-tightening the drain bolt. I forgot the exact torque specs but it's not a whole lot. Either way, if you're using the correct size socket, it should be nearly impossible to "round" the drain bolt.

 

Either you're using the wrong tool that isn't snug or you need to replace your bolt. I've had mine strip before too. If you take it to the dealer, they use an impact compressor gun to tighten your bolt. Which is why you're having difficulties loosening it yourself, you can't get much leverage unless you jack up the car and put it on jackstands. Even so, I wouldnt feel to comfortable tugging the crap out of the car while underneath it. Proper tools get the job done. Try getting some sort of extension for the wrench for more leverage. Good luck!

 

I use a 6 pt socket w/ small 3/8 drive breaker bar, never had any issues.

Make sure you don't ever torque the plug, and replace the crush gasket when needed or yearly

 

Whatever advance auto sells. I think it's a 12 point 17mm box end wrench.

 

Should I use a 6 point?

 

Yes, and a good one.

 

Try to get good craftsman pro line tools or SK tools, ect.

 

Get a new plug and use quality tools for removing the plug. Foreign tools have bigger tolerances than Matco, snapon,craftsman etc. Use a 6 point socket never a twelve and u should be fine. And u don't need to over-tighten the plug, just get it snug and once in a while check 4 leaks. The next time it will remove a lot easier.

 

Thanks guys! All is well now. I'll check out sears next time for a proper wrench.

 

It's 29 ft/lbs, or 360 in/lbs. Hardly enough to round the head of a steel bolt. Someone's over-tightening the thing me thinks.

 

I went with a Sure Drain bolt. Check out this thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/ez-drain-704203/

Never have to remove the bolt again...........

Bought it at O'Reillys.

 

or a fumoto drain valve. Makes changing oil a walk in the park!

 

and they actually recommend changing that washer on the drain bolt every time you take it out...i never have and ive had no issues yet....

 

^ changing the drain bolt every oil change is ridiculous, and you don't need to change the washer every change either. The low end tech whoever is doing your oil change is probably popping your drain bolt with a gun or just torquing the shit out it. Get a new bolt, 29 ft.lbs and that's it..

 

To the OP: Quite monkeying around at the dealership and take a trip to Sears. Pay for a set of Craftsman Bolt-Out sockets. These will remove the stuck drain plug. Buy a new one at the dealer and a handfull of crushwashers (for the future). Install the new plug yourself at the recommended torque spec. If you don't have a torque wrench, do your best not to overtighten it. PS: Make sure your using f-ing metric tools...



360in/lbs = 30 ft/lbs.

This is bad advice. You should always torque the plug to the correct spec (listed above). Over torqued = broken...

Reading is fundamental... lol

/thread

 

You're not making any sense. You tell powerflow he gave bad advice yet you tell the OP the same advice. btw, torque wrenches are usually only accurate to 5-10% of the desired spec, so whether it's dialed into 29 ft.lbs or 30 ft.lbs doesn't make much of a difference. I misread 07tl-s's comment.. I thought he wrote the dealer recommended changing the drain plug & washer every oci... no reason to be a jackass.

 

This looks like a good option. I always worried about the spin open plugs coming loose. This one locks shut.

I just changed my oil yesterday and I use a 6pt socket on a 1/2 drive ratchet. But I also have to lift on side to get clearance for the ratchet, lower to drain and then lift again to replace. Not too bad but being able to just reach up and drain would be much easier.

 

If I have extra crush washers, I change it. Sometimes I don't but don't sweat it. If you use a torque wrench to tighten, you'll definitely need to be on ramps or jacked up so it'll clear.

That said, I have never used a torque wrench or ever had a problem getting a bolt out. I have heard horror stories where JiffyLube type places use guns and people have actually broken the welds on pans trying to get them out.

Probably why the bolts are so soft. To possibly prevent people from over torquing, but with a gun and a good socket, even that won't help.

 

It was a typo. ever = over

 

Again, reading is fundamental. Powerflow said to never torque the bolt. You must ALWAYS torque your bolts or they will simply fall out. Just ask the guy that had his caliper fall off while driving on the freeway after a botched brake job...

 

I assumed that he meant never over torque. Whenever I use a torque wrench, it always seems much less than what I would do without it. But if you've wrenched on a nut or bolt for any period of time, you can tell when it's tight enough. It's getting 5 equal like a wheel that is tricky.

 

I thought it was obvious he meant don't over torque the bolt.. and I think the Azine member whose caliper came off was due to over torquing the bolts which stripped the bolt / caliper threads, allowing the bolt to fall free and the caliper to push off the rotor.... .. I hate stripped threads!

KN_TL.. you must have some monster wheels to do a oil change without jacks / ramps. I can barely fit my arm under.. lol. I use a torque wrench if it's handy / in my trunk. Otherwise I do the same, just don't overdo it .

 

Ah, I see...

 

Yes it does, but trying to set an "inch/lb" torque wrench to 348 in/lbs is not fun. Using 360 in/lbs ain't gonna hurt anything.

 

um....I said I need to jack up one side

 

^ ah.. I jack up the front and put stands on both ends then drop it when I'm done. On my X there's tons of clearance. I change the oil in less than 15 mins, no lift required.

On my Tundra.. I can almost walk under it.. lol.

 

Just assumed you meant that you did your oil changes without.. missed your previous post.

I can't even fit my pan under the car without it being up.

 

Not sure where that came from but I'll stop polluting this thread. I think the OP has what he needs anyway.

 

I've been changing mine and my parents oil since I was 16. I've been through plenty of stripping and leaks before I discovered the secret of not over-tightening drain bolts and why the crush washer is there.

that said, while I'm a big torque-spec guy, I can feel exactly when the washer bites, then I give it about another 1/2 turn so it compresses just a bit. No leaks, no stripping, no bolt walking out on me.

 

I notice you didn't mention the filter, which I will argue is important with every oil change. Don't lock these down too tight or they come back to bite you. twist them until they make contact with the lip and they about another 3/4 turn is about perfect (should be fairly easy to twist back off from stop position). a light bead of clean oil on the filter rubber gasket is also recommended.

i love oil changes!

 

For whatever reason, my 3/8" drive torque wrench is rated in in/lbs. But between every 120in/lbs, are only 10 marks. Makes converting to ft/lbs very simple. Of course who knows how accurate it is. I purchased it at Autozone...

 

Make sure to clean off any residual material where the filter seats as well. I believe an Aziner had a leak due to the old rubber ring / gasket from the old filter sticking to the filter seat, probably due to an overtightened filter.. I agree, oil changes are great.. somewhere between getting a trim and getting trim.. JMO.. lol.

 

Ha! trim...

 

Amen to that. Always best to buy quality when purchasing torque wrenches. Not much difference in price but a big difference in peace of mind.

 

Keep going to the dealer, if you cant change your own oil then you should not try to do anything else on the car.