wolfpackNC

I had to slam on my brakes today to avoid hitting a dog. The ABS kicked in like it should and I heard the clicking of it going on and off. I stopped in time but noticed when I step on my brake now, it goes about half way down before they start to engage. Could slamming them on have screwed up my pads somehow. It almost feels like there is air in the line, but i didn't open them to let any air in.

Inaccurate

This is a semi common problem. See Service Bulletin linked below. I suppose it might had been that the air was in the ABS controller, and when you engaged the ABS, the air from the ABS was released into the main braking system. I don't know if that is possible..just me imagining how is might happen.

Anyway, take it to the dealer and show the Service Manager a printout of this Service Bulletin. Tell him you got that problem. Keep us posted on the results.

TSB: 07-041 Brake Pedal Is Low and Feels Soft (click here)

wolfpackNC

I took it in and the diagnosis was I needed new front brakes pads. I only had 2mm left on the pads. I was skeptical as to what this had to do with the softness coming on all at once but with 40,000 on the original btakes I'm sure they were near the end of their life. They did tell me I had to replace them with Brembos and that there wer no other options. I know others on the board have swappd out to aftermarket pads, but if I can get another 40k out of the new set, the cost won't hurt as much.

nfnsquared

Buy them off of ebay for $150 shipped and install them yourself. Easy job. Good DIYs in the garage to show you how. Rotors don't need to be turned as long as they are not gouged and relatively smooth. (Recommend you pull the rotors and sand them with 100-125 grit sand paper.) They will have a lip on them (outer edge) from the pads wearing down the rotors but that doesn't make a difference.

Bearcat94

I believe that I have read, as part of a "full" bleed procedure, to bleed normally, then go out and engage the ABS, then rebleed. This gets old fluid and/or air out of the ABS channels.



If you were at the dealer, they told you this because that is the only pad they sell for your car.

There are after market options. If you're keeping the rotors, nothing wrong with the OE pads. As mentioned, $150 from Acura dealer stores on ebay. DIY is simple.

If you're getting rid of the rotors then your options open up wider and you can mix and match with OE or not .... it's up to you.

Also, as mentioned, DON'T turn/machine/resurface the rotors if you don't have to. If there were no signs of unusual wear and no signs of warping, leave 'em be.

wolfpackNC

Turns out the problem was my brake modulator had gone bad. Replaced it and all is good!

wolfpackNC

Duh, I just checked the part number. They replaced the VSA unit as described in the TSB.

AJT

So I've had this exact problem, only after the snow we got down here last week and engaging the ABS for the first time since I purchased the car. Looks like an $835 part from acuraoemparts.com. The car is an 05 w/ ~93k miles. Anybody have this performed free via goodwill from Acura? It mentions on the TSB it's dealer optional. Any advice is appreciated.

I hate cars

I highly recommend doing a complete bleed before you spend that kind of money. I've done bleeds twice on my car and both times I had to bleed, go out and hit ABS a few times which softened the pedal, then bleed again and everything was fine. After the second bleed you can hit ABS all day long and the pedal feel does not change.

I don't know the assembly process but it's entirely possible the ABS controller (or accumulator if it uses one) had air trapped in it and released the first time it was cycled.

AJT

Very good point! I'll definitely do that before I invest in any more parts, I'm learning more and more to listen very carefully to you guys before I go out and buy replacement parts.