I have a few questions... I'm not sure what's the issue, clutch, check valve, etc.
I just got the car three days ago. Test drive for an hour went fine. AFAIK the check valve in the slave cylinder makes it seem as though the clutch is slipping, correct? That seems to happen for me unless I give the car more gas. Like excessively. If I press the throttle to around 2.5-3K, it feels very sluggish.. what could be my issue?

 

Can you give us a more detailed explanation of what is happening?

 

I'm sure the clutch is done... won't go into any gear now

 

It should still go into gear with a slipping clutch. Check the master cylinder for leaks and proper travel at the slave to fork (should move 1-2 inches)

 

If I put it in gear, 1-6 even reverse, and engage the clutch (release pedal), the car does nothing now. I just had to push it into my carport

 

Never had a failed clutch before, there was also a burning smell, kinda like shingles from a roof? Any insight?

 

Wasn't grinding at all, just seemed to slip a lot and gears slightly notchy.

 

Pedal depresses and returns like normal, but before, when the car moved, vague engagement feel. Maybe the linkage? Also, where are the master and slave cylinders?

 

Sounds like a failed clutch. The notchy shifter....well...that depends on what your definition is for notchy and what you are used to. This is where the GM SMFM may come in handy to improve the feel and behavior of the synchros....which should be the least of your worries until you get the clutch worked out.

 

You can feel a 'notch' about halfway through some gates. Fairly smooth though. First Honda/Acura, which are known for smooth clutches and shifters, yeah? Clutch pedal feels fine, besides the numbness at engagement before. Even with not being able to get in gear, has the same pump/recoil/stiffness.

 

If you've verified the slave cylinders proper travel (what panda said) that means the entire clutch HYDRAULIC portion of the pedal is indeed operational, which means it's something after the slave. The master cylinder is on the firewall next to the brake booster (you gotta take off the drivers-side plastic cover), and the slave cylinder is kind of under the battery, on the front of the tranny.
It (sounds like) it goes into 1-6/R normally, which means the shifter and linkages are fine.

Your video has all the symptoms of a slipping clutch, aka with constant throttle and speed the revs still shoot up. As well as you said the smell. That smell will haunt your dreams.It sounds like the previous owner knew the clutch was slipping and wanted to off-load it without needing to deal with it.

 

So what tips might I give the mechanic that will be changing the clutch? That tool to take off the clutch, what is it called? I want to make sure it gets done right, but I don't get bent on the price. I've been quoted 1100-1400 for parts and labor. Any way to tell if my fly's done without disassembly? What else should I get done while it's torn down? Plan on ordering off acuraoemparts. 04 TL with 140000 miles. It was a used car lot, I was gotten. It ran fine during the test drive. Minor slippage, which I attributed to the check valve, though I thought the degree of slippage was a little high, I blamed it on the check valve. Runs fine, got it for 5.5k. Any tips?

 

The LuK clutch system is what Honda used in our cars from the factory; no need to buy from AcuraOEMParts. The exact same LuK parts can be had from Rock Auto for a fraction of the price. Just to be clear here, the AcuraOEMParts Flywheel is $583.17, the Rock Auto price was $205.79; the Clutch Kit is $299.84 and the Rock Auto price is $173.79. Said another way, $883.01 for the AcuraOEMParts versus $379.58 for the exact same parts from Rock Auto.

 

Keep in mind...the check valve doesn't cause true noticeable slipping. There may be a slight blip as you release the clutch during aggressive driving, but a proper clutch will still grab and engage almost immediately. In casual driving, there should be no visible slipping at all.

As for your flywheel...the fact that you smelled burning clutch...I would make the assumption your fly has been roasted as well and should be replaced. Cheap insurance at this point if you are already going through the replacement process.

 

That is, the same exact parts manufactured by the same company without the Honda name on the package! Be sure to change the flywheel along with the clutch.
.
.

 

Agreed, the $379.58 mentioned in my previous post includes the Clutch Kit and the new Dual-Mass Flywheel.

 

I already order the clutch. I'll just tell the mechanic to order a flywheel if it's bad enough. Though, I hope it's not.

 

Pretty good bet if the clutch was bad, it took out the surface of the flywheel for good measure.

With the above said, does anybody know how well dual-mass flywheels take to being resurfaced? Another comment along the same lines, it seems logical somebody would (or at least could) remanufacture or recondition dual-mass flywheels and resell them at a fraction of the cost of a new unit; have any of y'all ever heard of such.

 

That's not the worst idea ever is it??? The shop seemed pretty knowledgeable of Acura, so I somewhat trust them. Especially being military in the Hampton Roads area.

 

Take it from someone who's been there, REPLACE THE FLYWHEEL at the same time! I made that mistake when my original clutch went out at 180K, and the replacement only 40K later. That's when I spoke to LUK's tech support who advised me to be sure to replace the flywheel at the same time due to the wear characteristics of dual mass flywheels and how they deteriorate. Whatever you do, DO NOT resurface it! LUK's tech support #, 330-558-5223

>>>>>>>>>The shop seemed pretty knowledgeable of Acura, so I somewhat trust them<<<<<<<<
I don't know about you, but I'd trust the folks at LUK's knowledge on this stuff first seeing how they make the thing for Acura.
.
.

 

I mean on measuring and making sure there's not a lot of heat stress. Thank you, btw.