Shudder on accel at highway speed. Clutch makes it stop
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Shudder on accel at highway speed. Clutch makes it stop
I had a mechanic take a look at this while he was working on some other things but he could not identify the problem. I'll get someone else to take a look but figured it was worth running past everyone here first.
If I get the car up to around 50mph or higher (on an interstate), and I accelerate (to pass a car), the passenger front wheel has a pretty strong shudder. It's very noticeable as the driver. The harder I accelerate, the more noticeable it is.
If I press in the clutch while accelerating, it instantly stops. So I know it's drive train and not wheels. The question is what is most likely causing this. The axle? Inner CV joint? Something else?
As always, thanks!
If I get the car up to around 50mph or higher (on an interstate), and I accelerate (to pass a car), the passenger front wheel has a pretty strong shudder. It's very noticeable as the driver. The harder I accelerate, the more noticeable it is.
If I press in the clutch while accelerating, it instantly stops. So I know it's drive train and not wheels. The question is what is most likely causing this. The axle? Inner CV joint? Something else?
As always, thanks!
#2
Safety Car
i have an automatic, so it may be different, but i had something similar to what you're describing. we threw it on a lift and accelerated slightly, and we saw that the front, right wheel wobbled with throttle. it was expensive repair
not sure of the terminology, but something about an axle or a hub was replaced. it was ~ $1,100
not sure of the terminology, but something about an axle or a hub was replaced. it was ~ $1,100
#3
I had some noise happening when braking. It turned out that one of the clamps on piping was touching the V belt only when braking. What happens when braking, accelerating or even taking the load off, the engine shifts either to front or back, that's what happened to me, the engine shifted forward when braking, thus touching the A/C piping clamp. You might have something else, but just throwing ideas from experience.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks guys for ideas of things to check. I'm going to guess, but my probably seems more like erick3's. Looking forward to dropping another $1,100 on this car. I love the car, but repairs are expensive!
Not sure if I can do an axle/hub myself. Never done one. Anyone do this themselves or should I take it to the dealer?
Not sure if I can do an axle/hub myself. Never done one. Anyone do this themselves or should I take it to the dealer?
#5
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99% of the time, if you are just cruising and there's no vibration, but the vibration becomes very noticeable when accelerating, it's one of the inboard joints on the axles. Outboard joints click when turning slowly in a parking lot, etc, and inboard joints cause a vibration when accelerating. That said, it's more then likely it's just going to be an axle. Not too expensive, and labor it's too expensive either. Or you can attempt it yourself if you want
Sometimes it can be a little difficult to diag which axle it is, but if you can feel significant play when grabbing and pulling on it, or see it move around when underneath the car (front end up on jackstands), then that is most likely the bad axle.
Sometimes it can be a little difficult to diag which axle it is, but if you can feel significant play when grabbing and pulling on it, or see it move around when underneath the car (front end up on jackstands), then that is most likely the bad axle.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Great. Thanks! I was trying to put it up on stands this week to put my winter wheels on, but I've run out of time with the holidays and travel plans so the car goes in on Wednesday for them to take a look. Depending on the estimate, I'll have them do it or attempt it myself.
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#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Not lowered at all. Do have RonJon Inspyre 19s on it though if that matters.
Was surprised you have to replace the entire axle. Can't you just replace the boot, or housing, or whatever?
Got the car back this afternoon. That definitely took care of it. Runs fantastic now!
Between a new clutch and no more shuddering, I'm a very happy driver and the car pulls like it was new! Now I just need some winter shoes to put on my OEM 17" wheels.
Was surprised you have to replace the entire axle. Can't you just replace the boot, or housing, or whatever?
Got the car back this afternoon. That definitely took care of it. Runs fantastic now!
Between a new clutch and no more shuddering, I'm a very happy driver and the car pulls like it was new! Now I just need some winter shoes to put on my OEM 17" wheels.
#11
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OP -
Glad it's all fixed up for you. Figured it would be an axle(s) And no, you can't really just replace a boot, or other part, because they generally come as assemblies. Now, if it was in fact just a ripped boot, you could replace just that. But your actual joints were worn out, meaning there was too much clearance, and it was out of tolerance. That's what was physically causing your symptoms; you were feeling the joint "wobbling" around, to keep it simple.
But hey, it's all fixed, you're good to go, so all is well!
Glad it's all fixed up for you. Figured it would be an axle(s) And no, you can't really just replace a boot, or other part, because they generally come as assemblies. Now, if it was in fact just a ripped boot, you could replace just that. But your actual joints were worn out, meaning there was too much clearance, and it was out of tolerance. That's what was physically causing your symptoms; you were feeling the joint "wobbling" around, to keep it simple.
But hey, it's all fixed, you're good to go, so all is well!
#12
OP -
Glad it's all fixed up for you. Figured it would be an axle(s) And no, you can't really just replace a boot, or other part, because they generally come as assemblies. Now, if it was in fact just a ripped boot, you could replace just that. But your actual joints were worn out, meaning there was too much clearance, and it was out of tolerance. That's what was physically causing your symptoms; you were feeling the joint "wobbling" around, to keep it simple.
But hey, it's all fixed, you're good to go, so all is well!
Glad it's all fixed up for you. Figured it would be an axle(s) And no, you can't really just replace a boot, or other part, because they generally come as assemblies. Now, if it was in fact just a ripped boot, you could replace just that. But your actual joints were worn out, meaning there was too much clearance, and it was out of tolerance. That's what was physically causing your symptoms; you were feeling the joint "wobbling" around, to keep it simple.
But hey, it's all fixed, you're good to go, so all is well!
#13
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I dont know abot that. If the cv boot is rippsed and grease is spraying everywhere youd probably want to replace the whole assembly. who knows how much dirt and other contaminates got into the joint through the rip. Youd be safer repacing the whole thing since they are relatively cheap and the labor to replace these is not.
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