seat heater switch lightbulb burned out
#1
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In my 2004 TL, the light in the left side seat heater switch is now out. Is this a difficult repair (ie: disassembling the whole console to get to it, etc)? Does it require purchasing a new switch or just a new bulb?
Any comments would be appreciated.
Any comments would be appreciated.
#2
06 TL 6spd. Navi/A-spec
There should be three bulbs to a switch one for the switch backlight one then for hi and then one for lo. Not too sure how to access them though!
#3
Senior Moderator
It should take about 30 minutes at the most to remove the console to get to the switches. Look in the 3G garage for instructions on how to remove the radio, follow the steps on removing the center console. After the console is removed the switches can be pulled out and replaced. I would recommend you replace the bulbs in both the switches, making a total of 4.
#4
Racer
yeah this is the 3rd time that these bulbs have died on me. I am pretty over getting them fixed and have just thought about removing the bulb on the one that is still lit and just having them without lights... same with my steering wheel.
#5
it's me, Alan Rickman.
For the longest time I didn't think the heater lights were .. lighted, but they are! I replaced 4 bulbs in mine not too long ago.. I get the mini-bulbs from radio schack (like $1.50/pk 2)
#7
![Angry](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon8.gif)
This is what kills me about BEAN counters. Why is not economical to use an LED for those bulbs? For the hard to access stuff like the seat heater lamp, they use a mini bulb...
I just noticed my driver's side bulb is burnt out. I'll let the dealer do it on the next oil change.
A-Train
![Why Me](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/whyme.gif)
I just noticed my driver's side bulb is burnt out. I'll let the dealer do it on the next oil change.
A-Train
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#8
similar on accord
my mothers 04 accord (probably all the same parts) has had the drivers switch bulb burn out twice, the drivers map light burn out twice, and now the bottom part of her seat wont even heat... its hard not to think they all have something in common. (those are the only problems shes had with the car though; not bad i guess)
i agree with the LED comment, why did they skimp on these when so much is already LED (for the TL, anyway)?
i agree with the LED comment, why did they skimp on these when so much is already LED (for the TL, anyway)?
#10
2006 NBP Acura TL
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Does anyone know the factory part # for the replacement bulbs (the one that lights up when you turn on your headlights)? I just realized today that mine blew too.
Thanks in advance!
![Why Me](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/whyme.gif)
Thanks in advance!
#12
2006 NBP Acura TL
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Originally Posted by JCL622
just take it to Acura.
My push to talk HFL button burned out, and my Driver 1 button bulb burned out - took it to Acura and they just replaced them all
My push to talk HFL button burned out, and my Driver 1 button bulb burned out - took it to Acura and they just replaced them all
#14
2006 NBP Acura TL
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Originally Posted by ecliptics
should be, unless you're over it already. mine burnt out too.. :/
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
#16
2006 NBP Acura TL
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Originally Posted by Fulani has a TL
I wonder how much they charge, if you are out of warranty... Anybody know?
I just purchased it for my car today, and replaced it. Pretty simple.
#21
信是寶
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Seat heater light
Originally Posted by BrianC636
I think autolumination offers LED for those applications. 8mm Neo bulb I think it what they're called.
The OEM part# is: 35852-sep-a02, they are 0.56w (light) and 0.84w (indicators)
autolumination as the LEDs here I think as Neo - Wedge LED Instrument Panel Bulbs Type A http://autolumination.com/74.htm
Can anyone confirm that these will work; has anyone measured the base is it 8mm? I am going to email them to make sure that these LEDs are the correct replacements, will get back with info.
They have a great selection of colors. I am going to change out the hi/low with two different colors, like orange for low, red for high and blue for the main light I think
#23
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Originally Posted by Tecciztecatl
Well, this is what I have found so far.
The OEM part# is: 35852-sep-a02, they are 0.56w (light) and 0.84w (indicators)
autolumination as the LEDs here I think as Neo - Wedge LED Instrument Panel Bulbs Type A http://autolumination.com/74.htm
Can anyone confirm that these will work; has anyone measured the base is it 8mm? I am going to email them to make sure that these LEDs are the correct replacements, will get back with info.
They have a great selection of colors. I am going to change out the hi/low with two different colors, like orange for low, red for high and blue for the main light I think
The OEM part# is: 35852-sep-a02, they are 0.56w (light) and 0.84w (indicators)
autolumination as the LEDs here I think as Neo - Wedge LED Instrument Panel Bulbs Type A http://autolumination.com/74.htm
Can anyone confirm that these will work; has anyone measured the base is it 8mm? I am going to email them to make sure that these LEDs are the correct replacements, will get back with info.
They have a great selection of colors. I am going to change out the hi/low with two different colors, like orange for low, red for high and blue for the main light I think
OK, here's the deal. I bought these LEDs. The ones I received were 12.00 mm tall, which will not fit into the "light" slot. They will fit into the "indicator" slots. We need a base dia. of 8.00 mm and a height of 10.00 mm ... and for those that do not know, you have to make sure that you get your LED in rights, as far as pos. & neg. goes (anode/cathode), if you do not get the polarity correct, they will not light.
So I put red ones into the "high" indicator slots and amber into the "low" indicator slot - they look great. Yet since the ones I ordered were too long they did not fit into the "light" slot, which was the main reason for the replacement, so I took one from the front dash and replaced the burn out one. I then took my blue LEDS and replaced the 4 dash lights, which are now killer blue and look good.
So kiddies, just make sure you get the right ones. I emailed autolumination about the difference in height, we shall see what he does.
The LED is on the left and the incandescent stock bulb is on the right.
![](https://img360.imageshack.us/img360/2610/leduv3.jpg)
Shot with CYBERSHOT at 2008-08-03
#24
Over Caffeinated
OK, here's the deal. I bought these LEDs. The ones I received were 12.00 mm tall, which will not fit into the "light" slot. They will fit into the "indicator" slots. We need a base dia. of 8.00 mm and a height of 10.00 mm ... and for those that do not know, you have to make sure that you get your LED in rights, as far as pos. & neg. goes (anode/cathode), if you do not get the polarity correct, they will not light.
So I put red ones into the "high" indicator slots and amber into the "low" indicator slot - they look great. Yet since the ones I ordered were too long they did not fit into the "light" slot, which was the main reason for the replacement, so I took one from the front dash and replaced the burn out one. I then took my blue LEDS and replaced the 4 dash lights, which are now killer blue and look good.
So kiddies, just make sure you get the right ones. I emailed autolumination about the difference in height, we shall see what he does.
The LED is on the left and the incandescent stock bulb is on the right.
![](https://img360.imageshack.us/img360/2610/leduv3.jpg)
Shot with CYBERSHOT at 2008-08-03
So I put red ones into the "high" indicator slots and amber into the "low" indicator slot - they look great. Yet since the ones I ordered were too long they did not fit into the "light" slot, which was the main reason for the replacement, so I took one from the front dash and replaced the burn out one. I then took my blue LEDS and replaced the 4 dash lights, which are now killer blue and look good.
So kiddies, just make sure you get the right ones. I emailed autolumination about the difference in height, we shall see what he does.
The LED is on the left and the incandescent stock bulb is on the right.
![](https://img360.imageshack.us/img360/2610/leduv3.jpg)
Shot with CYBERSHOT at 2008-08-03
From your picture, it appears that the epoxy encapsulation could be shortened enough to meet the length requirement. This can be done with a file, sandpaper, Dremel, etc. Just don't get too close to the 'die', which is the part that actually produces light. You could also try to create an inverted cone shape in the epoxy with the tip pointing to the die. This would (well, should) cause more light to come out of the sides of the led rather than the end and might illuminate the switch better.
Steve
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