I know I posted this in my headlight problem thread, but I would like any inputs before I drive 30 miles to the dealer.

Are these rotors covered under warranty? 06, 19,000 miles.

 

ouch that's some pretty bad scoring you have going on. While I think shit like this should be covered, it's not, as brakes are expressly wear and tear items as stated in your owners manual. This being said, if you have a good relationship with your dealer and ask very nicely they may goodwill them, but don't bet on it.

 

dont even drive 30 miles on them- it looks like the pad on that side is down to metal and grinding away at the rotor- get to a brake shop or private honda-acura shop today

your about the right miles to need brakes if you drive in traffic a lot, or fun run often.
Thats going to need a new rotor, pretty sure if they try to resurface that it will be too thin when they are done
Make sure the caliper operation is checked
It didnt make a hi pitch squeeling noise under light brake pressure- when you first tough the pedal? thats the warning tab but its on the inside pad

 

Yup, you need new rotors as others said, if you need good rotors/pads/SS lines then check out the following website, I just picked up drilled/slotted rotors +ceramic pads + SS braided lines from him for $225 for my GS and have had them on the car for about a month now. He leaves the contact areas naked and powder coats the rest to the color of your choice to avoid rust .

http://www.designrt.net/

 

I just checked my front pads 3 days ago and they are at 50-60%, mileage is 28K miles.
He must be giving some hard times to the breakes so that pad is down t metal already, nevertheless I can not imagine how 19k miles worn the pad out that way.

 

I have no idea either. I am no maniac driver, I can assure you. I've been very careful with my car, from fluid levels to maintenance. I guess its time for new brakes. Yikes, I was hoping it would go under warranty, being how low I am(milage wise).

 

it is time to ask yourself as why you got the pads worn out so soon, especially why you got that scoring without you doing anything about it.

do some investigation before replacing pads / machining disks, you dont want to see that again after another 19k miles, do you?

 

I checked out the pads earlier... about 70% life left. I'll load the picture in a second. They are no where near end of life.



Not the perfect picture, but you can see how much meat there is left on the pads.


While I was outside...

 

It looks like something may have lodged itself between the rotor and pad causing that severe cutting of the rotor. Have the dealer check it out ASAP

 

I had the same looking scratch on my last car and i took it to a bodyshop and it turned out to be a loose brake pin which i guess was throwing off the position of the brake. The only thing is it happened to a ford explorer and not a luxury car. Is there any noise coming from the brake?

 

Well, rust is normal on rotors.
When I do brakes, I grease the rotor to hub and rotor to wheel, to prevent excessive rust that can bond the rotor to the hub, making a sledge hammer into a disk removal tool!
The grease and lack of rust also helps the disk get rid of the heat generated, so prevents warping.

Expect the pads to last at least 30,000 miles no matter how you drive, and they should last longer than that.

In my book, the scratches are no big deal if the brakes are quiet and smooth, but if you can get the dealers to do something about them for free, why not let them do so.

Everyone likes nice smooth new looking rotors, but when I was poor, I put new pads on badly scored rotors without problems, I dont like turning rotors, that just removes metal, which is not a good thing.

The pads would wear into the grooves and actualy increase surface area, and I had good luck with quite bad rotors and new pads.

Now that I have enough money to take care of my cars, I generaly buy new rotors when I do brakes, for the AT cars, I think NEW rotors can be got for about $35.00 each, maybe less if you shop around.

If it was MY car, I would order good pads and rotors and do the job for about $100.00.

Without seeing the parts, I would want to be sure something has not got loose and is causing the scratching, it looks severe for something stuck in the brake pad, but its hard to tell from the pictures.
The scratches themselves are no problem, the cause of the scratches would be something I would check out.


Brett

 

I also have some rust on my rotors and they look quite bad. I'm thinking of cleaning them.

Yeah, have a check on those scratches.

 

Some dealerships will cover it under warranty. Just depends on which. My rotors were pulsating and I took it to one dealer and they didnt want to touch it because of my 20's but another dealer resurfaced them under warranty.

 

how do you clean the rust off rotors?

i just washed my car last week and my rotors are all rusted now (less than 700 miles)

 

You can not stop rotors from rusting.
they are steel, and get real hot and wet.

You could paint the hub parts with high temp paint, but the vents and surface you cant do anything about.

The best thing to do is grease the disk to hub, and disk to wheel surfaces, to prevent rust there, and aid in heat transfer.

Brett

 

Spray rust deagreaser on ur pads.

 

They are more like rust ridges.

They are only the two rear rotors. The fronts are fine.

 

Note to all rear brake pad replacers~~~~READ
Numerous brands of pads have been found to use the same backing plate part number for the TL, and it happens to be the one for RL-- which has a special `extra` tab on the back side or the inner pad- rear brakes
When this tab gets hit by the caliper piston every time you apply the brakes, it cocks the pad and only gets about 40% contact across its face, and the rotor face.

Removal of the offending tab with a grinder wheel will solve the problem- sometimes get a pulsing feel from it. You can sandpaper the rotr rust off- or drive it around the block and it will be gone

Look under the car at the rear rotors-the inner side
May have to remove wheel and caliper for better view, If there is rust on half the rotor surface- inner side-and the other half is shiny from use, you likely have 3rd tab
Its the center tab- top edge - inner pad Grind It!!

 

What tabs on the pads?

We sell more rear brakes on TLs from rear rotor rot. More from lighter braking and not from the people hard on their brakes, rear brakes don't get to work hard enough.\

Brakes are warranty for 12/12

 

umm.. i highly advise against this.

 

sorry, but just noticed las161 is banned (or atleast his name says it).

What do you mean by the rear brakes are not getting worked hard enough?

My brakes are fairlyrough when it comes to a yellow light. Other than that, I am very easy on my car. Could this be why?

 

rust penetrant? I've never heard of rust degreaser... anyway, I probably won't do that.