Rpm Limiter!!!

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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 10:11 AM
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Exclamation Rpm Limiter!!!

I just purchased an '05 TL and have about 1000 miles on it now. I was careful to not floor it or be too aggressive on the engine while driving in these early stages. But I was so impressed with the sound of the engine and wanted to listen to how it sounded in the upper rpm's, so in PARK, I laid on the gas pedal, but it would not go past 5000 rpm's. I later found out that there is an rpm limiter at around 5000 rpm's and that this was not good for the car. I did this about 5 times or so, does anyone know if this did any permanent damage to my engine? If so, would I know by now if it did?
Old Jan 17, 2005 | 10:45 AM
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When I test drove an AT, I got it up to the redline (7k+). I wasn't in park, but I don't see why it would be limited to 5k there.
Old Jan 17, 2005 | 11:31 AM
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I dont know how it is in the 6spd, but in the AT it does cut off at 5k, it's normal for Acura to do that, It was like that in my RSX Type S too, and even that was a 6spd manual. I dont think it would damage your engine if you just rev. If you like the sound of the car, I would suggest getting a cold air intake for it, and let VTEC kick in.
Old Jan 17, 2005 | 01:09 PM
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The rev limiter will cut off in the auto just as you said, It is to protect the tranny components when the car is in park. Running it up there will have no untoward effects.
Old Jan 17, 2005 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by fasttl
The rev limiter will cut off in the auto just as you said, It is to protect the tranny components when the car is in park. Running it up there will have no untoward effects.

With about 6MT? Does it cut off?
Old Jan 17, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tkim
I later found out that there is an rpm limiter at around 5000 rpm's and that this was not good for the car. I did this about 5 times or so, does anyone know if this did any permanent damage to my engine? If so, would I know by now if it did?
U said u found there was an rpm limiter, that also means ur engine was protected~

so i don't think it will make any damage to ur engine...
Old Jan 17, 2005 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by narmeen
With about 6MT? Does it cut off?
In all truth I haven't tried it! But if the engine is in gear, with the clutch engaged it doesn't cut off, Ive never tried it in neutral.
Old Jan 17, 2005 | 11:21 PM
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yea I know when my car is in neutral i cant get it past 5k... i think that if you are in gear and with the clutch in you can go all the way because i remember doing it once, just dont remember how
Old Jan 17, 2005 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by narmeen
With about 6MT? Does it cut off?
Ive never tried it in neutral. But in a gear it's going to read line.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 12:49 AM
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That's the speed limiter that also hits when your doing 150mph in 4th gear.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 04:13 AM
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Speed limiter and rev limiter are 2 different things. The rpm limiter at 5k in park is to prevent people from doing redline neutral drops. The speed limiter is speed based, not rpm based. It will stop acceleration at a given speed regardless of the rpm of the engine.

You didnt hurt anything, but freewheeling an engine to high rpms is not great for an engine, so dont make a habit of it.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 06:24 AM
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I don't think revving the engine that high in neutral is good for the engine. There isn't any "load" on the engine and it seems like it's not going to be good for the engine. If there are any engineering types out there to comment, I'd appreciate knowing if my opinion is wrong.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 07:00 AM
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engineering type...

I would tend to agree that revving an engine without a load on it to 5 K is not great for the engine. Even worse for a cold engine. I am not saying damage was done, but would advise against it. If you look at it this way, how many people see 5k on a daily basis. My 01 S would hardly see 3500 (but that was the max torque range) on my daily drive. It would see maybe 3000. If I visited 5000 rpms all the time especially in park I would expect to have had more engine wear and possibly some subtle issues with the engine at 80k+ miles.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 08:41 AM
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Rec RPM Level

I had the joy of driving a new BMW M3 the other day. It was not as smooth as my TL...but should I say a shade "quicker". It was cold out and the RPM gauge in the dash actually lit up showing how high it was safe to rev the engine. As the car warmed up the limit went up. Kind of cool.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 2K2SilverTL-S
That's the speed limiter that also hits when your doing 150mph in 4th gear.
4th gear redlines at about 125. Perhaps you mean on an auto TL-S, but I believe we are talking 3rd gen 6MT.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 07:23 PM
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i know what your talking about. i used to rev my Legend as far as I wanted (past 5000rpm) to the redline (i think it was 6200? rpm).

I would smoke the tires for miles ..... and it would take off with abandon.

i tried this on the TL and i was not very impressive. i don't know if it was because of the 5k RPM neutral limiter or not? but i know i stopped around 5kRPM and shot back down to lower RPMs...not good for launching.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 07:50 PM
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Most maufacturers have a "free rev" limiter (no load on engine) and a "loaded" rev limiter. The load rev limiter should be just past 7K on our TLs, while the free rev limiter should be lower.

Mark
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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Based on experience, the rev limiter appears to be just north of 7k when the engine is loaded.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 10:20 PM
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it's not a rev limiter or a speed limiter of any type. it's called the natural operation of an automatic transmission and it's called the "stall point". It's the point at which the input rotation from the engine exceeds the point that the fluid coupling known as an Automatic Transmission can absorb the energy before it has to drive the drive shafts to the wheels, which in park, aren't going anywhere.

The viscous torque converter is a free flowing fluid area (until the lock up torque converter kicks in) that has about a 3,000 or so play range before the fluid simply cannot flow without inparting it's energy into the output shaft of the tranny and it tries to make the car go.

It's not bad to do it once, but it is bad to do it a lot, revving the car up to the stall point. All AT cars have one when in gear and foot on the brake. MT's don't have one cuz they don't have a fluid transmission, it's a nice solid connection.

Hope that helps.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sherlock
it's not a rev limiter or a speed limiter of any type.
The thread has diverged into a discussion of the 6MT, hence the discussion of the rev limiter, but yes there is a limit to how much you can rev an automatic as you have described in response to the original post.
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 11:10 PM
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neutral redline

as i dont have an auto i cannot comment on any such "redline" or label there of.

i just came back from my little "midnight test session" and i report as follows

i do know, that in the manual cars you CANNOT rev the piss out of them unless the car is in motion.... my car will not rev past 5500 in neutral, it bounced off a hidden limiter at this RPM. also even if my car was in first it would not not rev out past 5500 unless the car was moving, or the tires were spinning. VSA on or off made no difference.... i think this is built into the engine computer to prevent against damage to drivetrain components (engine, clutch, transmission, differential, half shafts) this limiter hits very hard with no warning.....

also my car will not rev past 6900 rpm. so no its not just north of 7k it bounced of the limiter at or around 6900rpm and it didnt cross 7k. The redline is 6800. so you dont get much room to play with after you cross the red line. i belive the type s would rev out a little more then our current model. and a chip will probably push them even further.

i agree with almost everthing sherlock says, however i do belive that this limiter is an engine related function. although the tl converter is turning when you rev the car up, as the fluid pressure builds the engine would start to drag. the engine wouldnt just stop reving it, would slow down and stop continuing to climb so far every one has reported it hitting a limiter, or a wall. also the tl doesnt have that high of a stall speed built into their torque converter. as most people would complain that the transmission felt like it was sliping. high stall converter are found on race cars/hipo street cars for better acceleration. the tl converter begins to lock up (transfer power) not long after idle. i dont know the exact speed but its probably between 1000-2000 with full lock up taking place later in the power band
Old Sep 25, 2020 | 08:44 PM
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2004 acura TL,

Hello, I just purchased an acura TL for dirt track racing. Most people say that they use 2nd gear the entire time. My revlimiter kicks in at 3.5 and you have to shift. I see most go to5. What could cause this?
Old Sep 25, 2020 | 08:46 PM
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It is a 2004 autom.
Old Sep 25, 2020 | 09:06 PM
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perhaps low oil?

you're not giving us much to go on...have you inspected the car?

and it should rev all the way to 7k, 5k is the beginning of vtec.
Old Sep 25, 2020 | 11:35 PM
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It starts sputtering at 3.5 rpm's in any gear and even in neutral. I think I may have found the problem I pulled a code of 2647. I think it is a bad rocker arm seloniod.
Old Sep 25, 2020 | 11:38 PM
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This did not happen until a wreck that took out the passenger front hub and swing arm.
Old Sep 26, 2020 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by STEVEJESSE
It starts sputtering at 3.5 rpm's in any gear and even in neutral. I think I may have found the problem I pulled a code of 2647. I think it is a bad rocker arm seloniod.
yeah, that could cause vtec not to engage
Old Sep 26, 2020 | 08:33 AM
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^isn't v-tech induced at like 4700rpm? I’m not ever looking at the gauge while doing this. Lofl!
Old Sep 26, 2020 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by STEVEJESSE
This did not happen until a wreck that took out the passenger front hub and swing arm.
could be a bad acceleration pedal position sensor (by passenger wiper under hood) or an oil pressure switch ontop of oil filter housing right above the passenger wheel.
Old Sep 26, 2020 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Slpr04UA6
^isn't v-tech induced at like 4700rpm? I’m not ever looking at the gauge while doing this. Lofl!
close enough to 5k!

I figure, like you, I'm not staring at the tach and once I get into about that range, my foot has been committed to the floor. probably less than a second to reach 5k rpm from 4700.

sure if you throw the car on a dyno, you'll be able to see via graphs when it exactly engages... but my eyes, foot, and brain think somewhere along the lines of 5k
Old Sep 26, 2020 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by csmeance
could be a bad acceleration pedal position sensor (by passenger wiper under hood) or an oil pressure switch ontop of oil filter housing right above the passenger wheel.
Good point!
Old Sep 27, 2020 | 12:17 AM
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Thanks for the responses. I tried to reply but Have no idea what I replied to. There are reply buttons all over these pages. The front right wheel was basically taken out in a wreck and repaired. Since the car would sputter at 3.5 rpm's which I figure was Limp mode. I pulled a code of Rocker arm sensor blahblah stuck in bank 1. I found rocker arm oil pressure sensor. It had been patched back together with electrical tape. Gotta love it. Do it yourself or just F'N do it. Replaced the sensor. 40 bucks and 2 minutes. Seems to be fixed. I will know for sure when my son gets back from the dirt track tonight.
Old Sep 27, 2020 | 01:17 AM
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I love how you take my post about what I think the problem is, somehow it vanishes and I get a post about the possible problem. After talking with hundreds of " mechanics" Nobody offered an intelligent answer. The car was reving out at 3.5. It had been in a racing wreck that took out the front right tire and hub. It has so many wires and connectors hanging everywhere because the builders did a half ass job. Back to my point for others. It was a bad rocker arm oil pressure sensor, Thank you youtube. Just keep acting like ya'll know shit. 2 nd place tonight. Thank you Jesus! No mechanical background here but blessed with a but load of common sense. I have to say, I did start getting response after my block from the site and thanks! Acura zine can kiss my ass. No help , what so every.
Old Sep 27, 2020 | 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by STEVEJESSE
I love how you take my post about what I think the problem is, somehow it vanishes and I get a post about the possible problem. After talking with hundreds of " mechanics" Nobody offered an intelligent answer. The car was reving out at 3.5. It had been in a racing wreck that took out the front right tire and hub. It has so many wires and connectors hanging everywhere because the builders did a half ass job. Back to my point for others. It was a bad rocker arm oil pressure sensor, Thank you youtube. Just keep acting like ya'll know shit. 2 nd place tonight. Thank you Jesus! No mechanical background here but blessed with a but load of common sense. I have to say, I did start getting response after my block from the site and thanks! Acura zine can kiss my ass. No help , what so every.
??

well that was random.
Old Sep 27, 2020 | 05:59 AM
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I know i'm talking to myself here but it's almost like the dude got so frustrated and just took it out on us.

the art of car repair is the art of visual intelligence. meaning; one has to look for clues and put them together. Since we didnt have the car in front of us, there was no way for us to "diagnose" what the problem may be.
it's almost as if he expected us to diagnose his problem without looking at the car itself. which is impossible.

to further my point; he found what the issue was by investigating the shoddy repair work. which we wouldnt have known without actually looking at the car.
Old Sep 27, 2020 | 05:40 PM
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He is an idiot
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