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So as we all know, the best part of buying and getting a new car is getting to fix all the problems the previous own managed to pass on to you
I have gotten a few issues ironed out and seem to be some what stuck on a few of these.
1st and foremost, the center console will get really hot when driving, more so when driving hard, and driving in the day. Before we get into "the air ducts run through there" conversation; i know. even when im running full ac, it still manages to get warm. i feel hot air rising up and out of the shift boot and ebrake boot. i am about to take the center console apart to see if i can narrow it down but i have done other checks before.
first thing i looked into was my cats. they didnt have the heat shield on them and i suspected heat was radiating into the firewall, and into the center console. so i replaced the with high flow cats and had them ceramic coated to keep heat down. initially i thought it helped, but today driving during the day, i discovered it didnt (at least not enough to notice).
second, checked for exhaust leaks. there doesn't seem to be any to speak of, when the car cools down i will recheck all the bolts from hfpc, rv6 jpipe, and rv6 td exhaust. but last time they all checked out fine.
third, i thought my car would be over heating.
the car runs relatively cool compared to my previous tls. Operating Temp
so all and all im pretty stuck on this one guys. any suggestions would help.
i do have another small odd issue. my car tends to whine a bit like a mustang. it is rpm related and does it regardless of temp (so i dont think it is the power steering oring). i dont recall my previous tls doing this... im assuming a tensioner, or pulley is going out.
As for the console, I don't have a decent answer for you (I've had my console opened and there's not a whole lot of heat sources I can detect except I have an AT, so that is a difference between the cars).
As for the temp gauge reading low, it could be a faulty thermostat (stuck open) or more likely either a defective sender to the dash gauge. The best way would be an OBDII reader that tells info about the car such as true temp of the coolant.
i have considered that, or no thermostat at all for that matter. i will look into replacing the two parts and report back on the temp. the car warms up relatively fast though, so a sender does seem more likely of an option. fans and everything work and turn on as they are suppose to... this may be a common temp? its usually a slight bit higher, to the line immediatley above it (the car was off for 5 minutes or so)
I wouldn't just go and replace parts...I'd make sure that the coolant temp is appropriate because if it is and the gauge reads low, then it's likely a bad sensor giving a faulty reading to the gauge. If the thermostat was missing (which is very unlikely), then the car wouldn't really warm up at all, and when you turn on heat in the car, it would be only mildly warm air coming in via HVAC. A thermostat should not fail at 85,000 miles (that said, I did get mine replaced when I had the timing belt service done last year, just to be safe).
You can get relatively inexpensive OBDII units that will read a variety of info about the car and may even pair up with your cellphone- I've seen these on Amazon.
Without hearing it, would be hard to tell you.
Could be tensioner/pulley or the power steering pump/pulley.
Not expensive at all to do drive belts and tensioner/pulley at this mileage with a nice new belt. Make sure it's not the A/C compressor either. Even with A/C off, compressor turns on when you have the front window defogger turned on. If you have a stethoscope, go hunting. Hope it's not the timing belt area.
guys im semi stuck. under the hood it feels some what hot after a drive (15+ miles aka driving to work/home). the car does not appear to be over heating (gauge still stays at the 5th line).
would a faulty temp sensor contribute to this? i feel like since the thermostat is mechanical it shouldnt relate to it. when driving i can feel the hot air flowing through. at lower speeds it isnt too bad but most my driving is highway.
ive checked the firewall to see if there are any openings but i did not find anything that stuck out. the heat comes from just to the passenger side of the center console, basically around my ceramic coated hfpc.
i believe that the thermostat getting stuck half open, and the sensor reading low could be a combination to do this, but the car shows no symptoms of overheating (other than a hot engine bay after driving).
any input is appreciated, its such a weird issue, yet so annoying because the heat is a tad bit scary.
Can't help you with the heat in the console, but I've wondered the same about the temperature gauge. I bought my car with about 40k on the clock (now at 101k) and the gauge has always read the same as yours. Never once have i had any issue with overheating or using/leaking fluids.
hmm hopefully it just is what it is as far as the temperature gauge. if i have time im going to expose my cabin filter and see if im getting heat coming from there...
i wonder if my egt's are high, but the car seems to run pretty well. sure it being a little lean will give me alittle umph, with higher temps but this center console wind is hot.
the engine temp is fine. it regulates itself perfect. fans come on for a minute, and idles good for another 5 or so, rinse wash repeat.
there seems to be a tick noise but im guessing its just a loose valve. i used a steth (aka pole) to listen around and nothing sounds abnormal. the valves even sound pretty good to be honest.
i will be under the car with a steth later seeing if i can find anything new/else. still no idea where this heat is coming from. i may remove my entire front paneling/console/etc to see if i can narrow down where the heat is specifically coming from.
ill keep you guys posted. still accepting input (they are greatly appreciated)
I've somewhat experience this but would consider mine pretty mild heat around the area on my 04 Acura TL. I've also had a hot centre console in my previous B5 Audi A4. I always just suspected it was just heat coming from the transmission getting, to the gear lever selector. Both cars are AT though.
The linkage is just a cable... and its a flow of hot air. i checked the cables and though slightly warm id say its normal and or getting heat up by the convection of the other air flow i am experiencing.
2) heat issue!!!!! since i work on my car at night it is hard to see this... but the grommet that holds the shifter linkage into the fire wall... was popped off. again finding the owners previous issues are always fun. pictures below.
shifter cables
grommet for shifter cables out of place... open for air flowing in... air by the exhuast... hot air by the exhaust.
now i just need to work on that whinny noise i am hearing.
^the temp gauge is not exact.
if you notice; there are no numbers to indicate exact temp.
just a range from cold to hot.
and should be looked at as a range.
so, if your temp gauge needle falls in-between HOT and COLD, your car is at optimum operating temperature.
If you want to be exact; hook up a bluetooth OBDII dongle and check the temp with an android or iOS app.
For as long as I've been driving, I was always taught that the temp gauge is a range.
it should always fall somewhere in the middle.
not too hot, not too cold. Just right.
if too cold; will fuck up your engine.
if too hot; will fuck up your engine.
so, as long as it falls in-between the two; youre good.
Last edited by justnspace; Jan 12, 2015 at 07:53 AM.
I can vouch for the temp gauge. Mine stays at the same spot as yours and I've seen other 08 TL-S gauges and they all stay at 1/3rd so you should be fine there. Only way to check if there is an issue is plug in a reader on your OBD port and look at actual numbers but I'm pretty sure you are fine.
Glad you figured out the hot air issue. My MDX would blow hot air through vents and it was the air mixture gate for AC that was broken stuck I believe and it fried the HFL which is above the rear vents in MDX but I think TLs are completely different and blend door is behind dash/glove compartment.
yea it really had me worrying for a good while. on to other issues.. im going to try the ps oring and see if that fixes anything. it does sound rpm related and not speed
Moving on to whining, kinda metal tick noise... does this sound like the tensioner on the belt? i recently changed out the top o ring for the ps pump and it wasnt that. i know there is another o ring so i guess ill look into that. the problem is the whinning happens all the time, regardless of temp, gear, etc. its rpm related to. almost like a mustang whine noise if you know what im refering to.
it also sounds kind of metalic/rotary so im hoping the tensioner is a common or normal issue.
I have read numerous posts where having some sort of video with sound would help others to hear what you are hearing and maybe trigger a memory.
I know from recent experience that I had a bearing in my alternator making a whining noise at startup and running and after replacement, had the tensioner begin to make a whining noise that was not heard previously.
Actually thought I had it fixed when the battery indicator (small red battery symbol with + and -) popped back on and the car said the charging system was not charging the battery...now to see if I got a bad "new" alternator.
Your whining noise could be caused by the o-ring to the on the intake side of the P/S pump. They will harden and allow air to leak into the system and make the pump whine. Usually you will notice the P/S fluid becoming aerated and foamy. If its bad enough the aerated fluid will come pouring out of the reservoir after you shut the engine off.
So just an update, the whining noise/ticking noise both originated from the serpentine belt idler pulley. i replaced the idler/tensioner and the whine/tick is gone.
next on the list are axel, valve clearance, and timing belt..