That appears to be my current issue.

Doing full caliper pad and rotor replacement on both my rear wheels and while I was able to handle the driver's side just fine, once I got the caliper and mounting bracket off the rotor on the passenger side, and removed the locker pins with my handy dandy impact driver, I ran into this little snag:

At first I thought the rotor was stuck to the hub so I applied the 8mm bolt method which certainly created a gap (wasn't seized at the hub plate at all), and all of a sudden I heard a pop sound of sorts but the rotor still wouldn't come off (at this point I'm worried I may have damaged something in the parking brake shoe) but a retaining pin did pop out from the assembly so maybe that was the popping sound.

Well, I had enough of a gap to see with a maglight that indeed one of the parking brake shoes is caught inside the rotor.

I don't think it is seized as I believe if that was the case then I may have noticed issues with normal use, and I *always* use my parking brake. Religiously.

I've tried moving the star adjuster upwards a couple of clicks but that doesn't seem to be doing any good. I've tried hammers, torches, PB Blaster - getting pretty frustrated right now as I was up until 2 a.m. last night trying to sort this sumbitch out. I had an easier time doing the brakes on my buddy's rusted out 98 Buick than my 2005 TL.

Does anyone see anything obvious I'm missing here?

The only remaining idea I have is to get longer 8mm bolts and weasel the rotor off far enough that I can try to pry the brake shoe out from it (if that's even possible), but I don't want to damage anything either.

Thoughts?

 

Keep turning the adjusting star wheel until the shoes retract and you can remove the rotor. May have a groove in the inside of the rotor hat that the shoes are sitting inside.

 

Mission accomplished. Thanks turbo.

I do have to replace the pin for the retaining clip on one side of the parking shoes, however. A small price to pay, though.

 

I had the same problem, i had it fixed, but now the parking brake is sticking again... its driving me nuts. Could you let me know if it happens to you again?

 

So happy to have found this post. Spent about 4 hours today trying to replace my rear rotors but thought they were "stuck". To clarify, I have to use a flathead (?) and put it through that 1/2inch hole in the rotor hub to spin the star wheel?

Then after securing the new rotor, should I tighten the star wheel? Also, you mention the "retaining clip", which I have yet to encounter.

Thank you!!

(2005 TL owner)

 

Turn the star wheel while rotating the rotor until the shoes contact the surface. If too tight, just back off slightly.

 

Thanks dude. Can I ask a stupid question? Why does the manual tell me the spindle nut is only 22mm? It's 32mm. Aren't ALL honda/acuras 32mm...??

See what I mean?: http://gyazo.com/dcf3999f94baf3ba23e89557e8fc71b8.png

 

Don't know about the size, but if you're just removing the rotors you don't need to remove, what they call the spinle nut.

 

I'm having a very hard time finding the adjustment screw, I've removed the rubber grommet but i can't seem to find anything in that little hole to tighten/loosen... i can clearly see that the shoe is caught on the rotor which is stopping me from removing it.
So i guess my main question is does the hub need to be turned to reach the adjuster if so wheres it located? thanks for the help

 

^With p-brakes, you're not searching for a screw but rather a star wheel that you push one way or the other. That star wheel then turns the screw that you usually can't really see. So look for the star wheel, it will be the size of a thick washer but with raised and lowered 'star' areas so you can push/ spin it with the screwdriver.

 

This exact issue happened to me while changing my rear rotors on my 2007 Acura TL. I wasn't aware the e-brake was stuck to the rotors and ended up snapping a cotter pin on the e-brake from trying to force the rotor off. I drilled out a larger hole in the rotor to find this elusive "star" adjustment. It was well hidden behind an extension spring at 6 o'clock looking at the rotor. It would resembled a star looking forward at it, but the view from the rotor hole is from it's right side, so all you will see are the prongs sticking out. I rotated the star wheel down towards the ground until the e-brake was completely loosened and the rotor came off without a problem. Bought the hardware replacement kit at Autozone to replace the broken cotter pin for $20 and haven't had any problems.