Rear Main Seal leak and repair
04-30-2018, 02:36 AM
#41
great post, op. thanks for the pics.
i do agree with Mrgoodwrench and don't think the subframe needs to come off, but i could be wrong.
last year, i tried lifting my car through the jackpoint on the front subframe to try to get jacks on the sides, and by doing so, i must've created havoc on the engine's infrastructure as i started getting very bad vibrations and engine jumping due to bad motor mounts. i must've damaged them as they were really old and hard. i've since replaced all the motor mounts and fixed the vibration and engine jumping, but ever since it happened, i noticed dark semi wet oil leaking from the same spots op has in his photos (under the torque convert/transmission/engine adjoined). so i'm pretty sure i also did some damage to the rear main seal. luckily its not as bad as op's was and it's not dropping oil on the ground, but i see and clean the thick oil residue every time im under there changing the oil. i think eventually it can get to that point. regardless, i want to get it fixed.
may try to get a family friend whos a mechanic to try to fix it, even help out if it's manageable within a day. if not i'm gonna call tranny shops around town and try to get some quotes. idk, do you guys think it's worth it if the oil leak is not enough to make it drop to the ground?
i do agree with Mrgoodwrench and don't think the subframe needs to come off, but i could be wrong.
last year, i tried lifting my car through the jackpoint on the front subframe to try to get jacks on the sides, and by doing so, i must've created havoc on the engine's infrastructure as i started getting very bad vibrations and engine jumping due to bad motor mounts. i must've damaged them as they were really old and hard. i've since replaced all the motor mounts and fixed the vibration and engine jumping, but ever since it happened, i noticed dark semi wet oil leaking from the same spots op has in his photos (under the torque convert/transmission/engine adjoined). so i'm pretty sure i also did some damage to the rear main seal. luckily its not as bad as op's was and it's not dropping oil on the ground, but i see and clean the thick oil residue every time im under there changing the oil. i think eventually it can get to that point. regardless, i want to get it fixed.
may try to get a family friend whos a mechanic to try to fix it, even help out if it's manageable within a day. if not i'm gonna call tranny shops around town and try to get some quotes. idk, do you guys think it's worth it if the oil leak is not enough to make it drop to the ground?
04-30-2018, 08:17 AM
#42
Burning Brakes
(" so i'm pretty sure i also did some damage to the rear main seal") Don't beat yourself up over this issue. It would very unlikely that anything you did, in in jacking and or twisting the engine, could cause damage to the rear main seal. The seal itself, is buried in a housing, attached to the engine block. I can't imagine how it would be possible for you to cause any damage to it.
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onekam (09-26-2018)
02-07-2019, 08:49 PM
#43
Honestly this is a very common leak for these engines. I see this on 3.2 and 3.5's daily along with the oil pump seals. Theses are great engines and very reliable it's just little flaws that need addressed is all.
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Jboat (03-29-2020)
02-18-2019, 04:17 PM
#44
Intermediate
So I’m doing a AV6 transmission swap and figure I’ll change the rear main seal while I’m there. The thing is, I can’t find a seal driver that will clear the crank, so I’m Leary if pulling the old one until I do. I searched for the seal driver attachment the FSM calls for and have a hard time with the idea of spending $100 for it. Any ideas short of pulling the engine block end cover to do this?
Last edited by TacoTom1967; 02-18-2019 at 04:28 PM.
02-18-2019, 06:10 PM
#45
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
So I’m doing a AV6 transmission swap and figure I’ll change the rear main seal while I’m there. The thing is, I can’t find a seal driver that will clear the crank, so I’m Leary if pulling the old one until I do. I searched for the seal driver attachment the FSM calls for and have a hard time with the idea of spending $100 for it. Any ideas short of pulling the engine block end cover to do this?
03-02-2019, 02:01 PM
#46
Intermediate
Excellent idea!
I never actually did the RMS replacement; however, if you have the seal in-hand you may be able to wander the plumbing or A/C aisle of your local hardware/big box store to try and find a cheap 'one time use' alternative in a similar diameter (think PVC or pipe). Part # 91214-RCA-A01 indicates a size of (80X98X8).
08-25-2019, 09:08 PM
#48
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
05-17-2020, 05:48 PM
#50
Advanced
So now I know what's my issue losing a lot of oil they're specifically. I would like to know should I buy an oem rear main seal or I go with a third-party PTFE rear main seal?
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