summerayu

My 06 TL MT has been running great since I got it.

Till recently I found the rear driver side brake pad wears much faster than the other side. Both pads and rotors were replaced last December. So I am pretty sure something is wrong with the driver side rear brake.

I don't use brake very much in commuting on highway. It also looks like after 25 minute high way driving, the rear drive side rotor is much hotter than all other threes. But still when I jacked up the car to move the wheel around, both rear two wheel moves without much resistance.

I read a few possible problem but not sure what exact problem it might be.

I am thinking of replacing the rear driver side caliper plus the worn pads and rotors.

Also some people were saying it might be the brake line issue. Shall I go ahead to replace brake lines on both sides along with replacing the caliper itself.

Also this is my second brake job (replaced the front brembo pads before), I have taken the retaining screws off already.

Something not sure about is the parking brake. I read the brake DIY and it recommends readjusting the parking shoe for new rotors (go back till 6 clicks according to the DIY and 8 clicks according to the service manual). So is this necessary and how many exactly clicks are needed?

Also have never replaced the brake line before, anything needs to be worried about before the job?

Any inputs would be appreciated. Have a good night, guys!

Tony

truonghthe

^^^you can buy the caliper rebuilt kit from Acura for $21.50 versus a rebuilt caliper from Acura for $150. I just rebuilt the front caliper on my accord and now the brake working great, I think the issue might be the slide pin instead of brake line because if rust build up or grease starting to dry up then it will not move as much as lubed.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Make certain pins and retainers are clean and lubricated so that the caliper moves easily, but normally a pad that stays in contact with the rotor ends up being a caliper pistion sticking or an internal break in the hose. After driving, try pushing the caliper piston in and see if resistance, if so stop and open the bleeder valve and push in again. If the piston easily moves, it's the hose, if still difficult to move, sticky caliper piston.

summerayu

The pins are lubricated for sure since the Caliper can move back and force easily when the piston has been pushed back.

The piston can be pushed back using the c-clamp though. So not exactly sure whether it's the piston or the host.

I have already ordered a caliper set and two brake lines to be safe.

BTW, when replacing the brake lines, do I have to replace the one on the other side? Out of no reason, I ordered two instead of one

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

While you're in there you might as well upgrade. I'd recommend upgrading to stainless steel brake lines and STOPTECH Performance pads.

summerayu

Yeah, i should have ordered SS.

Was in a hurry and thus just ordered two OEM hoses. Maybe later some time. Thanks a lot.

truonghthe

Don't trust the C clamp because they can force a stuck piston back in place easy and as soon as the hydraulic push it back into stuck position which seem like a good working caliper, you will amaze how much corrosion build up in those piston, when I did the job on my Accord the piston and slide pin seem normal because the rotor surface contact with pads is shiny and clean but I know that for fact that piston and slide pin doesn't operate normal due do crappy pedal feed back. I felt that there is no brake if I tap the pedal lightly not until the pedal travel half way down. I take the caliper out and looking for rust, to be honest there is minimal rust on the piston and dust boot. I then insert a compress air hose into the hydraulic inlet to push piston out, just like my expectation those stubborn piston barely move so then I go ahead with plan B using a punching pin and a hammer to drive that piston out. It took about five or six stroke of hammer to get that piston out, once the piston is out I inspecting for rust build up against seal boot and nothing is there either. I replace all the seal and dust boot and lubed, lubed slide pin and put new slide pin boot on and bleed the brake, now they working wonderful. I got brake every time when the pedal tapped lightly like it should be.

summerayu

I really have no idea how to rebuild a caliper.
Looks like you really did a good job. The caliper and brakeline are arriving two days later. Let me replace both to see how it works. Is there anything I need to be aware of before replacing hose and the caliper of the stuck side plus rotor and pads on both sides ?

truonghthe

^^^here is a tutorial video how to rebuild the caliper and save you some $$$$, just like I say chances that could be slide pins, piston fault more than brake line itself but keep us update to see how it goes.


My piston wasn't that quite nice to move out with compressor air so I have to use brute force. You can get the rebuild kit for $13.48 each ($26.96 for both) versus $130 for each caliper ($260 both) as you can see how much different in price, $233.04 is the exact number you could save. I only buy a new caliper only if the internal wall and/or piston interior wall is scratch up.

maknwar

sorry to hijack, but do you have part numbers for the rebuild kits?

truonghthe

part number: 01473-SP0-000

links: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Number 1 is what you need for rebuilt the calipers.

summerayu

Thanks for your suggestion. Still I am not quite confident about rebuilding a new caliper. I just bought it to save some trouble later since I have already spent a lot of time on the car.

A little update, I finally fix the car by changing the calipers on both sides with one brake line exchange. The other brakeline cannot be removed (The screw is too tight and the wrench make it round, which is really bad). Then I just leave it as is. So far with the new rotors, pads and caliper, it's been great. Thinking of putting on the RDX cover later some time.

truonghthe

lets see if it is the slide pins issue instead of brake line itself.