Problem with rear brake again

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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 03:14 PM
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Problem with rear brake again

Back in June my rear passenger brake froze. I changed the brake hose, caliper, rotor, and pads on both rear wheels. My rear driver side brake is now freezing up 9 months later. I just replaced everything when I did the other side. could their be a bigger problem that I need to check? I dont know what else to try. I lubbed the hell out of the slide bolts, that is not the issue. Is there a chance the new brake hose is bad?? When I release the bleeder I can push the caliper in, so the caliper is fine. My brake fluid level is fine and I bleed the whole system and put new brake fluid in back in june. What else should I check?? The other brakes seem to be working fine. I am at a loss..
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 03:20 PM
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I might break down and buy the hoses in the link below. Anyone on here try stainless steel hoses? Is it worth the money. I dont drive hard, I just want something that will last.

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3671A0A0.aspx
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:50 AM
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Is there anything between the master cylinder and the rear brake hose that could be causing me to collapse brake hoses on the rear brakes?
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 12:58 PM
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Sorry, I'm no help, but this is like the third thread on this page for an unknown cause that's binding the rear brakes. There's gotta be some pervasive issue, maybe surfacing with more frequency as more cars push past the 100K miles mark. Good luck, OP. Hope someone solves it soon as there a bunch of us with this problem.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Well I spoke to the acura service department. He said when you push the brake pedal they work in a series. He said the driver rear brakes first, followed by the rear passenger then the front. He said it sounds like my brake is not releasing fully and i need to adjust the brake pedal. Anyone know how to adjust the brake pedal and switches?

Last edited by MillerTime12oz; Mar 11, 2013 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 05:15 PM
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The 04-06 TL's have a rear caliper seizing issue....the caliper just seizes...

All you need to do is replace the caliper....my driver side seized and I replaced it with the Advance Auto Parts Caliper and it has been doing fine
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:56 PM
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Agree, I replaced both rear calipers last summer and now everything works fine.

Anyone know how long the caliper can last in general?
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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I just replaced the caliper 9 months ago along withe the brake hose. The caliper will retract fine when i open the bleeder, there seems to be no issues with the caliper. I just find it odd i have to replace the same brake hose again in 9 months.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MillerTime12oz
Back in June my rear passenger brake froze. I changed the brake hose, caliper, rotor, and pads on both rear wheels. My rear driver side brake is now freezing up 9 months later. I just replaced everything when I did the other side. could their be a bigger problem that I need to check? I dont know what else to try. I lubbed the hell out of the slide bolts, that is not the issue. Is there a chance the new brake hose is bad?? When I release the bleeder I can push the caliper in, so the caliper is fine. My brake fluid level is fine and I bleed the whole system and put new brake fluid in back in june. What else should I check?? The other brakes seem to be working fine. I am at a loss..
Check the passenger side front with an IR temp gun and see if its hotter than the drivers front. The passenger front and drivers rear are on the same circuit from the master cylinder. I don't think this is your problem but let's eliminate this since its so easy to check before we go too much farther.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 04:23 PM
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I ordered an ir gun from amazon and it is not in yet. I just drove around the block and my front two brakes, as well as the rear passenger, were warm and i could hold my fingers on the rotors however the rear driver side was so hot i could not touch it. I am going to remove the brake hose from the brake line and push the caliper in and see if fluid comes out the brake hose tonight. What are your thoughts "i hate cars"?
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 06:58 AM
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Did you check your pedal clearance or adjust it correctly? The pedal must come must come all the way to the top of it's travel & give you clearance between it & the M. Cyl. push rod.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:40 AM
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Millertime - Did you have a chance to adjust your brake pedal? Ive been having the same problems as you. I know you mentioned the Acura dealer said they didn't think it could be the prop valve or MC but I think that might be our problem. I dont think the prop valve is part of our MC as the prop valve is a dealer only part... Id be curious to see what your temps come out at? Mine were at 160 for the fronts and 212 for the rears after a 15 min drive.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MillerTime12oz
I ordered an ir gun from amazon and it is not in yet. I just drove around the block and my front two brakes, as well as the rear passenger, were warm and i could hold my fingers on the rotors however the rear driver side was so hot i could not touch it. I am going to remove the brake hose from the brake line and push the caliper in and see if fluid comes out the brake hose tonight. What are your thoughts "i hate cars"?
It pretty much eliminates the master cylinder. As long as the lug nuts are tight, I would remove the caliper and check out the hardware and the pads for irregular wear. It might be best to do this when hot with some gloves for safety. Make sure the piston retracts without opening the bleeder and if it doesn't make sure it will with the bleeder open. Sometimes problems will show up only once they get hot.
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