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I am looking to replace the power steering return line (53731-SDB-A00) due to it leaking at the reservoir and replace the reservoir feed hose (53733-SDA-A01). It seem s pretty straight forward but i thought i would ask. So in order to replace both hoses i need to drain the reservoir, then simply remove the hoses by compressing the clamps, then slip the new hoses on and fill the reservoir to the upper level line turn the wheel 3-4 times to left and right to purge any air then recheck to make sure it's filled to the upper level and if not add more fluid.
So in order to replace both hoses i need to drain the reservoir, then simply remove the hoses by compressing the clamps, then slip the new hoses on and fill the reservoir to the upper level line turn the wheel 3-4 times to left and right to purge any air then recheck to make sure it's filled to the upper level and if not add more fluid.
I would not recommend *bleeding*/ purging air from the PS system with the engine running - although you did not say that. Certainly 3-4 turn will not be enough. Anyway, I use the method in the link below, scroll down to the section BLEED THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM.
Although in that thread I did not drain the PS reservoir, the method works even if the PS system is completely empty of fluid.
dcmodles thank for the response and for providing info, good to know.
so i just want to make sure i am getting this correct.
After i drain the fluid and replace the hoses i am to put fluid into the hose till it fills, ok but which hose the return or feed?
After the hose is filed connect it to the reservior and fill the reservoir to upper mark then proceed with turning the ignition key to unlock the steering wheel lock-to-lock 10, check res and fill if need and repeat correct?
so i just want to make sure i am getting this correct.
After i drain the fluid and replace the hoses i am to put fluid into the hose till it fills, ok but which hose the return or feed? [ed: ??? no]
After the hose is filed connect it to the reservior and fill the reservoir to upper mark then proceed with turning the ignition key to unlock the steering wheel lock-to-lock 10, check res and fill if need and repeat correct?
1) replace all parts, connect & check all fittings
2) fill tank with fluid
3) turn steering wheel lock-to-lock, wheels OFF the ground, engine OFF
4) don't allow tank to empty, else you will pump air into the system
5) refill tank as required, until level no longer drops
This works even if you begin with no oil at all inside the PS system.
at the time of replacing the hoses wouldn't it bee a good time to replace the power steering fluid? I have never replaced the power steering fluid and it is at 160K. If so could i drain the fluid according to the service manual? in order to drain the reservoir you will have to empty it correct and in doing so won't this cause air to in the reservoir?
I called the local acura dealer and they said that my car has had the power steering hoses replaced.
at the time of replacing the hoses wouldn't it bee a good time to replace the power steering fluid? [ed: YES] I have never replaced the power steering fluid and it is at 160K. If so could i drain the fluid according to the service manual? in order to drain the reservoir you will have to empty it correct and in doing so won't this cause air to in the reservoir?
Again, the service manual says to run the engine - and I think that is a bad idea. You can just use the method described in the link I posted above.
So long as you disconnect a hose on the return side of the system, returning to the tank, the tank should not completely empty simply by draining. Note that the return hose to the tank is *higher* than the output hose from the tank to the pump. The output hose is in the bottom of the tank, the return hose is higher on the side of the tank.
And you can pump new fluid completely through the system, and the old fluid out, just by turning the steering wheel - with the engine OFF, and the wheels off the ground.
Or you can use the turkey baster method - again, see the link I posted above. I realize that the link I posted is long, but if you will read completely through it, all your questions are answered there.
I went through this ordeal of replacing the entire steering system shortly after dealer recall replaced the high pressure hose. My system started leaking everywhere, ate up all my subframe bushings, compliance bushings, end links, a mess. Even my rack leaked worse than ever. I bled the system after replacing everything, even a new resovoir from Honda. Rebuilt and parts washed pump using Viton seals. Quiet tight, but last but not least used Royal Purple synthetic power steering fluid. I think Honda fluid seems to eat up or gunk up seals. At 160,000 miles my car drives better now than when it had 9000 miles. And no cold whine when it's cold.
at the time of replacing the hoses wouldn't it bee a good time to replace the power steering fluid? I have never replaced the power steering fluid and it is at 160K. If so could i drain the fluid according to the service manual? in order to drain the reservoir you will have to empty it correct and in doing so won't this cause air to in the reservoir?
I called the local acura dealer and they said that my car has had the power steering hoses replaced.
re-reading the thread.
Definitely do this procedure. Not sure why dcmodels was saying with the Engine off ... if the motor is off the power steering pump is not active and the serpentine belt is not moving..... If you are just filling perhaps this process is fine with the engine off however to flush the system the engine must be on.
this process is a two man job btw. one man working the wheel the other holding the tube hooked up to the return line into a bucket and filling the reservoir as the fluid is sucked through... when you see the clear new fluid you are done; re install return and fill.
Definitely do this procedure. Not sure why dcmodels was saying with the Engine off ...
The PS system functions at 1300 psi pressure, and without any fluid, which is what happens when its drained with the engine running, damage occurs. But its your car.
Originally Posted by BC2G
... If you are just filling perhaps this process is fine with the engine off however to flush the system the engine must be on.
this process is a two man job btw. one man working the wheel the other holding the tube hooked up to the return line into a bucket and filling the reservoir as the fluid is sucked through... when you see the clear new fluid you are done; re install return and fill.
Not true - have you tried it with the engine off? guess not. I have. Anyway, a simple test will demonstrate that the PS system on any Honda/ Acura can be flushed with the engine off, and it can be done safely, by only one person. Others have posted on this forum that they have followed the *engine-off* procedure with success.
Here ya go, do it like this, so easy and better than the SM procedure.
I also just replaced the return line coming off the rack that runs over to the passenger wheel well area and then to the front of the car.
That hose is not that fun to replace, it runs underneath the motor-mount, it's actually not that bad once you remove the strut bar from the car though. I went ahead and replaced the fitting that goes into the rack as well, it looked like my rack had been leaking right there.
I thought I had fixed it before, but my leak came back, see how it holds up now should be good. I didn't have any bubbles in it after running the car but guess I'll see.
I replaced my magnefine filter as well in it, which happened to be leaking itself, from the threaded on seam.
Not sure the filter is such a good idea, where I put it it's a pain to replace as well if this one leaks I'm going to remove it from the system and just put a stock hose back on it.
Originally Posted by mzilvar
Flushed my PS fluid today, I used OEM fluid just thought I'd show how it was done, I did it the way DCmodels said to flush the fluid.
Supported the front on jack stands and blocked the rear wheels, then I disconnected the rubber return line in front by the bumper, as seen in the diagram and allowed all the old fluid to drain out.
I then plugged the end of the hose, as pictured, and put a hose clamp on it. I used a 3/8" drill bit to plug it, just the smooth end of the drill bit in the hose I left the sharp parts sticking out of it I didn't have a bolt that would fit.
I ran a 3/8" hose (had some extra laying around) off the metal return line down there out from under the car to my drain box. Didn't use any clamps on it just slid it on.
Then I stuck a big funnel in the reservoir and filled it back up. If you don't plug the return line end that is disconnected like I mentioned the fluid is going to just run out from gravity through the reservoir.
Then I put the car in neutral, insert key move to ACC, depress brake (I have an AT) and put the selector in neutral. This is one of the reasons I had the rear wheels blocked with 4x4s I only had the front supported by stands.
I was then able to turn the steering wheel freely and it worked just like DCmodels said it would, new fluid was pulled into the system and the old stuff was captured in my drain box. I kept topping up the fluid and draining it out by turning the steering wheel.
In total I went through 3 3/4 bottles of fluid (12oz. each) then I removed the plug (I had the fluid in the reservoir below where the return line connects to it) and the 3/8 hose that I had connected and re-connected the return hose that goes in front and put the clamps back on it.
Then refilled the reservoir again and turned the steering wheel again, I went through another 12 oz. of fluid (1x bottle) at this point since the new fluid had to fill the return lines again.
Buttoned the car back up and put it on the floor, ran it and the fluid went down a bit more so I had to drive to a dealership and buy some more fluid since I was out, got the level inbetween the min and max lines and now it's good.
In total I put a little over 5 bottles (12oz. each) into the system doing this.
Definitely seems like the right way to do this, a lot better than the baster method or the method in the FSM.
Pic to help, if anyone else looks at doing this, probably the easiest and safest way to flush the power steering system.
Only get a few seconds and it'll be empty, it'll probably shoot out the old fluid faster than the new fluid is going into it unless it's drawing new fluid from a jug.
A lot simpler and safer the way I posted above, which is how DCmodels had mentioned to do it, without starting the car.
Dcmodels i agree letting it drain while on would be bad. That is why you need it to be continually filled
Well, no - you said to follow the FSM procedure, which you posted - and the FSM procedure says to run the PS system *empty* with the engine on - your post #10 above.
and the OP has already said that he is replaceing a line, which means there will not be full fluid in the system - again, to bleed and fill the system, the FSM says do it with the engine running - as you have posted.
There is no safe way to fill, flush, or bleed the PS system with the engine running. And your saying a flush can't be done with the engine off, does not make it so, just because you have said it is so.
As for keeping the PS system continuously filled, that cannot be done if it is already partly empty, because of parts replacements - plus I don't have, nor need, a second person to help, with the procedure I have suggested.
Well, no - you said to follow the FSM procedure, which you posted - and the FSM procedure says to run the PS system *empty* with the engine on - your post #10 above.
and the OP has already said that he is replaceing a line, which means there will not be full fluid in the system - again, to bleed and fill the system, the FSM says do it with the engine running - as you have posted.
There is no safe way to fill, flush, or bleed the PS system with the engine running. And your saying a flush can't be done with the engine off, does not make it so, just because you have said it is so.
As for keeping the PS system continuously filled, that cannot be done if it is already partly empty, because of parts replacements - plus I don't have, nor need, a second person to help, with the procedure I have suggested.
No need to get snippy
The service manual procedure was posted by someone else
I agree that doing the flush with the engine on is freaky. Ill try your method next time. In the meantime, chill out!!
09-23-2014, 10:41 AM
