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I just flushed the power steering fluid on my 2007 TL with 42,000 miles. Removed the reservior and drained completely. I also attached rubber hose to upper hose and turned wheels until nothing else came out. Refilled reservoir (two bottles Acura power steering fluid). I drove the car a few miles after complete and rechecked the fluid. It is still really dark. How many times should you flush to get clear fluid in the reservior?
The system overhaul capacity from the FSM is 1.16qts (~37floz); this includes 0.33qts (~11floz) in the reservoir. Honda PSF comes in 12floz bottles.
When I did this, I emptied the reservoir, disconnected the return line, and capped the return bung. I had the car in the air and went lock to lock until no more fluid came out.
I then filled up the reservoir with fresh fluid and started the car; the reservoir immediately emptied and I shut down the car. I would suggest that anyone else NOT do this as the pump ran dry for a second.
Most people never change their PS fluid, so I think you'll be fine just leaving it as is.
In the future I may try removing the accessory belt and driving the PS pump with a drill, while turning the wheel lock to lock. There's just not an easy way to get all of the fluid out of the system.
I just flushed the power steering fluid on my 2007 TL with 42,000 miles. Removed the reservior and drained completely. I also attached rubber hose to upper hose and turned wheels until nothing else came out. Refilled reservoir (two bottles Acura power steering fluid). I drove the car a few miles after complete and rechecked the fluid. It is still really dark. How many times should you flush to get clear fluid in the reservior?
The reason that your method does not completely flush the system, is because you need to pump fresh fluid through the system to remove (push out) all of the old fluid. In other words, you need to add new fluid as old fluid is pumped out.
There are two methods of flushing: the turkey baster method (basically your method), and the true-flush method. Emptying the tank with a turkey baster 9 times and refilling with fresh fluid, will remove about 90% of the old fluid. The vehicle MUST be driven between each drain and refill of the tank, to combine the new and old fluid.
For the second method (true-flush), leave the tank in place, but suck out the old fluid in it. Remove the end of the return hose back to the tank, and as you turn the steering wheel, old fluid will be pumped out this line. Continually add fresh fluid to the tank, and cap the return line connection at the tank to prevent fluid flowing out the tank when it is filled to the top.
DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE DURING FLUSHING - you will damage the pump seals, and possibly the steering rack seals. That whine you hear is damage occuring. Simply turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock, without the engine running, which will pump the PS fluid through the system, and out the return line into a bucket.
If the PS tank is never allowed to (completely) empty, during flushing, then no air is pumped into the system, and bleeding at the end is not required. Just reconnect the return line back to the tank.
Thanks for the info. This weekend I will flush it at least one more time. Crown Acura in Richmond Va has a special on PS fluid. Buy two bottles get one free. I got three bottles for under $10.00. I might go get three more, then I can flush it again twice.
The system overhaul capacity from the FSM is 1.16qts (~37floz); this includes 0.33qts (~11floz) in the reservoir. ...
I have performed a 'flush' both by the drain-and-fill turkey baster method, and by disconnecting the return line and flushing all of the fluid at one time. For the drain-and-fill method, using the specific volumes given above, and assuming that you can actually remove 11oz (I can only remove 7oz in the RDX), then each drain-and-fill will leave about 71% of the old fluid, so:
As you can see, the first three (3) drain-and-fills provide the most effect. Before I started using the full-flush method, I just did a drain-and-fill of the PS reservoir every oil change.
The reason that your method does not completely flush the system, is because you need to pump fresh fluid through the system to remove (push out) all of the old fluid. In other words, you need to add new fluid as old fluid is pumped out.
There are two methods of flushing: the turkey baster method (basically your method), and the true-flush method. Emptying the tank with a turkey baster 9 times and refilling with fresh fluid, will remove about 90% of the old fluid. The vehicle MUST be driven between each drain and refill of the tank, to combine the new and old fluid.
For the second method (true-flush), leave the tank in place, but suck out the old fluid in it. Remove the end of the return hose back to the tank, and as you turn the steering wheel, old fluid will be pumped out this line. Continually add fresh fluid to the tank, and cap the return line connection at the tank to prevent fluid flowing out the tank when it is filled to the top.
DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE DURING FLUSHING - you will damage the pump seals, and possibly the steering rack seals. That whine you hear is damage occuring. Simply turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock, without the engine running, which will pump the PS fluid through the system, and out the return line into a bucket.
If the PS tank is never allowed to (completely) empty, during flushing, then no air is pumped into the system, and bleeding at the end is not required. Just reconnect the return line back to the tank.
You CANNOT turn the wheels without the entire running!
if you raise the car, you can turn the steering wheel from end to end, or side to side , even with the key OFF.. because the steering column doesnt lock.
But to bleed air out of the power steering, then yes the engine has to be running of course.
I do recommend raising the car anyway when drainng power steering fluid because it removes the entire load from the power steering system and there is less stress on it while the fluid is circulating. And you can turn the wheels much faster and easier when the car is raised.. even if only raise 6".. still better than sitting on the ground..
if you raise the car, you can turn the steering wheel from end to end, or side to side , even with the key OFF.. because the steering column doesnt lock.
But to bleed air out of the power steering, then yes the engine has to be running of course.
I do recommend raising the car anyway when drainng power steering fluid because it removes the entire load from the power steering system and there is less stress on it while the fluid is circulating. And you can turn the wheels much faster and easier when the car is raised.. even if only raise 6".. still better than sitting on the ground..
oh ok. Thanks for the tip. I am going to do a complete flush. First I will use cheap 36 oz AutoZone fluid to flush out the old fluid and then use two bottle of OEM fluid to flush out the AutoZone fluid. And the final step is refill with OEM fluid. Thanks!
The total capacity is 3 times the reservior.
The Honda fluid bottle is 12 ounces (.375 quarts)
So the reservior is slightly less than 1 Honda bottle.
So I was mainly right about the reservior being 1/3 of the toptal capacity and 1 bottle is "about the capacity of the reserivoir" But Pint's are not the correct measurement.
All that said: I think the Power steering fluid system is more "Linear" than what would be in a transmission and a cooling system.
Since it is more linear, I think flushing with "cheap fluid" is not beneficial. In fact, it may make it difficult to tell when all the "cheap fluid" is flushed out since it is likely the same color as the Honda fluid (New).
I would just go straight to OEM fluid and skip the "cheap fluid".
When I flushed my system,
1. I emptied the reserviour, then disconnected the top hose, then I plugged the Hole on reservior (cover with foil and a zip tie), then filled the reservior with new fluid,
2. Raise the front end of the car to off the ground or close to it, this allows you to turn the wheels if desired without drag or strain on the system
3. I connected the upper hose to a catch pan using "clear tubing" and a plastic joiner, so I could see the color of the fluid. This tells me when the fluid is flushed through..
4. Start the car for 5 or 10 seconds, then kill the engine..., Check the reservior level, refill reserviour with new fluid, and then run the car again and push out more old fluid, (the Pump will start making noise) Shut the car off.. And check to see where you are at..
5. Make a judgement as to when to stop letting the fluild drain out. The pump will push the fluid out fast.. So you dont have much time to leave the engine on.
6. be ready to hear some funky noises from the pump. But no worries if the car doesnt run too long on low fluid.
Followed the same procedure, however preceded by adding cleaning solution.
Many people say you shouldn't turn the engine on, but raise the front of car and turn the wheels only. Tried it and it was taking ages just to finish with starting and stopping the engine few times 😃
When I flushed mine, the reservoir went from full to empty in like 5 seconds. I started the engine and ran the engine for 5 seconds. So, it moves through the system fast.. Much faster than just draining it..
I dont think you can flush it without starting the engine. But you can blend in new fluid like we do the transmissions... nothing wrong with that. It just takes more fluid and more time that way.. I doubt that draining it without turning on the engine will get all the fluid out, like a flush. But do whatever you are comfortable with..
Yes, I am sure peope say dont run it low. But a few seconds wont hurt. That is just my opinion. Mine clanked a few times.. but I knew it would before I started. Key thing is to not let it run that way for longer than just the short amount of time it takes to push the fluid. But do whatever you are comfortable with! =)
02-18-2013, 08:02 PM
