P0175 and P0300
#1
P0175 and P0300
Hello everyone,
I have a 04 TL 6MT. Got both Cel codes and have been fighting them both for a month now. P0175, I've cleaned the TB, replaced the MAP sensor and the code went away for a few days, then came right back. P0300, I changed the plugs with the 10$ NGK IR's @ 97k (the plugs definitely needed to be replaced.) That code also went away for a few days and came right back..... I don't want to keep throwing money into it to not solve my issues. No lack in power whatsoever, the idle is a little rough. At 800, jumps to 1000 then down to 600 once and a while. Stays at 800 for the most part. One big concern is on a cold start, if I turn key and go. I can be in any gear, if I bring the RPMs up and press and hold the cluth. The RPMs drop to 0 and the car dies..... once the car is up to temp that issue goes away.. trying to give the most details to get the best respone, sorry for the short book I've written lol. Also, I have an Ingen long CAI, XLR8 V2 J-pipe and Tsudo catback if that helps at all.
Thanks,
I have a 04 TL 6MT. Got both Cel codes and have been fighting them both for a month now. P0175, I've cleaned the TB, replaced the MAP sensor and the code went away for a few days, then came right back. P0300, I changed the plugs with the 10$ NGK IR's @ 97k (the plugs definitely needed to be replaced.) That code also went away for a few days and came right back..... I don't want to keep throwing money into it to not solve my issues. No lack in power whatsoever, the idle is a little rough. At 800, jumps to 1000 then down to 600 once and a while. Stays at 800 for the most part. One big concern is on a cold start, if I turn key and go. I can be in any gear, if I bring the RPMs up and press and hold the cluth. The RPMs drop to 0 and the car dies..... once the car is up to temp that issue goes away.. trying to give the most details to get the best respone, sorry for the short book I've written lol. Also, I have an Ingen long CAI, XLR8 V2 J-pipe and Tsudo catback if that helps at all.
Thanks,
#4
It's possible. A stuck open EGR will cause a perceived rich condition and a random misfire code.
A leaky injector will also cause those codes. If the leak is big enough, it will cause a catalyst damaging misfire and your check engine light will blink.
A leaky injector will also cause those codes. If the leak is big enough, it will cause a catalyst damaging misfire and your check engine light will blink.
#6
Two ways to check for leaky injector:
- Use a fuel gauge and check fuel pressure to see if it's in spec. Also do an injector test and monitor fuel pressure.
- Waveform test. You'll need to scope the fuel injectors and see which has a odd waveform compared to the rest.
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thegipper
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10-06-2014 10:25 AM