So I just bought a used 2004 TL and when I went to change the oil I saw that the the drain bolt was covered with sealant. I was worried about a stripped pan but once I got the bolt off the threads looks good. The face which contacts the crush washer and bolt, however, has several chips in it. Don't ask me how. I think they thought it was another crush washer and tried to bang it off or something I dont know. One chip (dent) creates a canal from the drain hole to the outside of the flange face.

Anyways I changed the bolt with a new gasket on there and it seems to be leaking slightly. Any good ideas on how to combat this? I dont know if I want to install a new oil pan. Should I try and fill in the chips with jb weld or something? I will probably throw some sealant on there for the time being. Any other sugestions?

 

That's the answer. Clean up the area, use brake clean or alcohol, then apply JB Weld. Got to make certain no oil runs out and that there is sufficient time given for the solution to dry, at least 24 hrs. minimum, the longer the better and ambient temperature makes a big difference in curing time, so read the directions. I'd do it at an oil change, drain the oil, then jack up the car so the oil residue is away from the drain hole and then do the job.

 

I would replace it.

It's about $100 before shipping and Hondabond from the online dealers. I've taken mine out and can be done on jack stands, just remember to remove the wheel to get to the side bolts under above the subframe. Also as someone else pointed out, practice putting the pan back in. It's a puzzle and you can mess up the sealant by not going in right the first time.

Not much more important to your engine than it's oil.

 

The JB weld will not work very well if the oil continues to leak through the crack while it is trying to cure. I would let it sit overnight to drain and even rough the surface up with a wheel or paper first. I did not have very good success with this in the past and ended up replacing the pan (in an accord) - I did the JB Weld 3 times with varying degrees of success.

What did work pretty well was to buy one of those oil drain valves, tape up the business ends and then spray the area down with the spray duct tape. This "solution" never leaked, but I always worried about it so the new pan eventually came.

 

you could try going with the valve method above.

the fumoto valve and adapter come with "soft" type washers/gaskets that could conform to the chips in the pan.

 

Go to Autozone, take your drain bolt with you, get a washer with the rubber/neophrine molded into it, usually good for several oil changes, then relax.

 

Is the rubber gasket like one of these?



I'll give one of those a shot. I also have to pick up a door lock actuator. That doesn't look too bad to install, but we will see how my weekend works out.

Also is there any problem with catching my oil and putting it back in. Im guessing I just have to make sure everything is clean?

Thanks guys. It looks like if the rubber gasket fails I will be going with a new pan.

 

Yes, a washer like that or similar, drain your oil in a clean catch pan & put it back in.

 

Well I think I fixed it. I bought a rubber gasket, but it didn't do any better so I decided that I would try one more thing before getting a new pan. I took a diamond disc from my dremel kit and took off a few mils from the mating face that was damaged. I would have used the dremel or my drill, but of course I didn't have any room to fit my tool so I ended up doing it by hand. Took some time, but I got a pretty good surface by the end of the session. It was 100%, but there was full metal surrounding the drain hole. Anyways I just checked after returning from a long drive and there is no oil so I think it's good to go. Knock on wood!