Oil Pan leaving from the drain cap
Oil Pan leaving from the drain cap
EDIT: Thread should read "Oil Pan Leaking from the Drain Plug" Yes i know I fail.
Noticed a minor leak a few days ago.
Dropped it off for an oil change and for them to check the leak. Basically they said they replaced the gasket but its still leaking a few drops here and there. The plug is securely on there but per the guy who did the work a plug bigger than what should have been used was put on and caused the thread to go bad.
He said in order to fix the issue he would have to basically drill out the old thread and replace it with a new one using a kit they have. But the issue... in order to do that they would have to drop the exhaust.
Cost: $250
Is it me or does this sound rediculous for something so minor or is this normal?
Noticed a minor leak a few days ago.
Dropped it off for an oil change and for them to check the leak. Basically they said they replaced the gasket but its still leaking a few drops here and there. The plug is securely on there but per the guy who did the work a plug bigger than what should have been used was put on and caused the thread to go bad.
He said in order to fix the issue he would have to basically drill out the old thread and replace it with a new one using a kit they have. But the issue... in order to do that they would have to drop the exhaust.

Cost: $250
Is it me or does this sound rediculous for something so minor or is this normal?
Last edited by PrimeTiime; Feb 11, 2014 at 11:08 AM.
i'll sum it up, and you tell me if i got it right.
sounds like the previous owner already tapped the drain plug.
but it still is leaking.
and, your shop wants to helicoil or re-tap the thread with yet another larger bolt?
If it were my car, I'd just replace the pan. the pan cost $98.xx from Honda.
and I would replace it myself.
there isnt a way around their labor charge.
if they're demanding $250, you either pay or haggle and get them to drop the price.
sounds like the previous owner already tapped the drain plug.
but it still is leaking.
and, your shop wants to helicoil or re-tap the thread with yet another larger bolt?
If it were my car, I'd just replace the pan. the pan cost $98.xx from Honda.
and I would replace it myself.
there isnt a way around their labor charge.
if they're demanding $250, you either pay or haggle and get them to drop the price.
i'll sum it up, and you tell me if i got it right.
sounds like the previous owner already tapped the drain plug.
but it still is leaking.
and, your shop wants to helicoil or re-tap the thread with yet another larger bolt?
If it were my car, I'd just replace the pan. the pan cost $98.xx from Honda.
and I would replace it myself.
there isnt a way around their labor charge.
if they're demanding $250, you either pay or haggle and get them to drop the price.
sounds like the previous owner already tapped the drain plug.
but it still is leaking.
and, your shop wants to helicoil or re-tap the thread with yet another larger bolt?
If it were my car, I'd just replace the pan. the pan cost $98.xx from Honda.
and I would replace it myself.
there isnt a way around their labor charge.
if they're demanding $250, you either pay or haggle and get them to drop the price.
do you have tools? jack and jack stands?
it'll be easier if she's on all 4 stands.
drain oil.
unbolt oil pan. Some bolts prove to be quite tricky!
bolt oil pan up. Some bolts prove to be quite tricky!
fill oil.
start car.
check for leaks.
sounds easy, but it is a 2-4 hour job.
it'll be easier if she's on all 4 stands.
drain oil.
unbolt oil pan. Some bolts prove to be quite tricky!
bolt oil pan up. Some bolts prove to be quite tricky!
fill oil.
start car.
check for leaks.
sounds easy, but it is a 2-4 hour job.
Sweet, you don't happen to know what size bolts are used for the oil pan do you? Also does it come with new bolts when you buy the oil pan or you just use the old ones again?
But yea I should have everything i need. Thanks man!
But yea I should have everything i need. Thanks man!
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The bolts are small and don't get toqued very much at all the seal is hondabond hit
Its not that easy to replace jpipe has to come out and I removed the serpentine belt as well to gain access pull passenger tire for more access as well.
Then you'll need some swivels 3/8, extensions and a torque wrench that can do like 12nm I think I'd have to check again.
Its not fun trying to put the oil pan back in, it wedges in between the subframe and the bottom of the engine and the strainer tends to get in the way while replacing it.
Its not that easy to replace jpipe has to come out and I removed the serpentine belt as well to gain access pull passenger tire for more access as well.
Then you'll need some swivels 3/8, extensions and a torque wrench that can do like 12nm I think I'd have to check again.
Its not fun trying to put the oil pan back in, it wedges in between the subframe and the bottom of the engine and the strainer tends to get in the way while replacing it.
There is another thread, whereby someone posted a link to a Acura Service News (ASN) which describes a specific aftermarket thread-repair kit for the TLs, which I understand can be done without dropping the pan. HOWEVER, since the repair kit drain plug is 12mm and the OEM drain plug is 14mm, not sure the kit would work on your pan - depends on just what has already been done to the drain plug hole.
Anyway, sorry I did not search for the thread, but all or most of the ASNs or whatever they are called, plus the TSBs for TLs are stickied on this forum somewhere - I have seen them before.
Anyway, sorry I did not search for the thread, but all or most of the ASNs or whatever they are called, plus the TSBs for TLs are stickied on this forum somewhere - I have seen them before.
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