sdritz

I have an 06 tl automatic. I have 59k miles and have had the rotors resurfaced 3 times and had the pads changed at 30k something miles. I have always had problems with warped rotors and have become fed up with it. Is there and better rotors and pads out there that aren't to expensive or am I better of just putting the OEM back on. Any help would be appreciated.

05Smoke_GreyTL

I totally agree with your post, Factory rotors suck I went to Slowboy racing and they have great prices. I got my eyes on either the DBA 4000's or the PowerSlot cryo!

skippyTL

I think having the factory rotors resurfaced 3 times was the 1st problem - surprised they were able to do it that many times....

That said - I need some rotors/pads soon too. Anybody want to weigh in on some recommendations? I've been giving those cryo's a look...

csmeance

I managed to warp my rotors on my TL at 30K. I now have 80K on it with some Racing Brake Slotted Rotors and Acura A-Spec brake pads and it's amazing! No real brake fade, no warping, great stopping power and as well the hubs were prepainted so I don't have to worry about the hub rusting onto the wheel!

sdritz

So will the a spec pad fit into the factory caliper?

ajs800

iTrader: (1)

yep, I just installed a set of aspec pads on my 06 5AT this evening. I went with a premium blank rotor, so I'm hoping they don't warp. I have 60k on my 06.

RjG2

I have about 28k on my 05 and my rotors warped. I got rotora slotted rotors and h2 pads for about $500. The dealer quoted me 512 for just the rotors. So far I have no complaints about the rotoras.

Bearcat94

Make sure your lug nuts are tightened to spec - 80 lb/ft. Supposedly overtight lugs is a primary cause of rotor warping.

dannyboy72

If my car goes into a shop and I know they'll be taking off the wheels, I politely ask if they hand torque the lugs to 80 ft lbs. If they refuse, which surprisingly some have, then I wouldn't let them touch my car. Once had a shop tighten my volvo lugs to about 240 ftlbs, after I asked them to hand torque, and it took a 4 ft oilfield pipe as a cheater, and all my weight to get it off. Bent 3 pipes and both my lug wrenches getting it off! Something like that would ruin an Acura rotor and lugs, but the Volvo took it!!haha
I bought the racing brake front rotors for my 5AT with the matched pads and it made all the difference in the world. Steel lines are my next step. I also think torn compliance bushings can cause warpage over time, as can worn out struts.

NE14RoxCJ

I did the RacingBrake Rotors, RB pads, stainless-braided lines and synthetic fluid all at once. I torque my wheels to 80 lbs-ft and don't stand on the brakes at a stop. My brakes feel great. I get a little growl occasionally, but a quick stop followed by some cooling time seems to help that. I don't think it's a problem with the rotors, though.

Oh, and bushings and struts causing rotors to warp?? I can't see that, but maybe it makes sense to somene.

sdritz

any body use napa rotors? Im not looking for anything fancy, a spec pads sound good but need some cheap rotors that are a good quality

nicourt

iTrader: (3)

Just did a front brake job on my "05". Purchased it 2 months ago w/ 42k on the clock. The second day driving at highway speed I felt brake vibration. Oh course the Stealer checked it and rotated/balanced the tires... Well as this was only the TENTH Honda product I've owned since my original 83 Accord Hatch... I knew it was going to be an at home in the garage fix.... Sooo off to Auto Zone for premium Dura Last disc's and Ceramic Pads... Pulling the front wheels I saw that my patient still had the original OEMs w/ about 1/8 of pad left... After getting everything torn down replaced I torqued the nuts to 80ft pounds and took my time driving with no sudden stops for 200 miles to bed the pads in.... And guess what? 2K miles later NO Pulsing or vibration... So for the price of parts ($170.00) and 2 hrs of my time everything is Good to Go! IMHO get premium after market if your going to be auto crossing and the like... If your a regular type that just goes to work everyday you don't need Cross drilled or slotted high performance.... Auto Zone or even Tire Rack on the expensive side will do... BTW I do all my HIGH SPEED stuff on my K4 Zuk 1000.... 170 at the rear wheel (Dyno Jet) does require race compound to slow my fat azz down ;-)

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

We've had really good success with the Racingbrake rotors and ET300 pads. Get ET500 pads for a really significant brake performance upgrade. We've been selling them for years and are getting into second sets of pads for people now! And not just Acuras...

Bearcat94

Yeah, I have. Following a Series of Unfortunate Events, I wasted one of my OE rotors and needed a low cost place holder until the rest of my OE stuff (pads and rotor) wear out.

So I got a NAPA rotor. They called it Premium, I think. It cost ~$56, iirc and has run just fine for the better part of a year.

hesshouse

I have found not washing my car when my rotors are really hot has kept them from warping.

blkaspec

Aspec pads are great. I had them on for about a year with OEM rotors and they were MUCH better than the standard pads. I have since swapped out for the RacingBrake rotor with ET500 pad setup.