No Power Steering
No Power Steering
My 2006 TL MT has no power steering at all. I have to really muscle it around turns and it is pretty draining on city streets.
Here's a what's happened with the power steering system:
Does anyone have any ideas? I'll take anything at this point. There are no leaks or strange noises - just no power steering.
Here's a what's happened with the power steering system:
- Everything is fine
- Rack starts leaking
- Replaced rack
- Everything is fine
- One morning, I have no power steering and no leaks
- Next day, I have power steering again
- That same afternoon, no more power steering
- I notice that sometimes, increasing RPMs makes steering easier while the car is sitting still
- Mechanic looks at power steering system, recommends that the pump be replaced
- Pump is replaced, no change in power steering
- A few days later, power steering works
- Everything is fine for 2 weeks or so
- Suddenly, no power steering after making a U turn
- Mechanic now says he wants to replace the rack
Does anyone have any ideas? I'll take anything at this point. There are no leaks or strange noises - just no power steering.
Rack replaced, now the dude wants to replace it again? The definition of insanity is doing the same thing expecting different results. Obviously not the pump or the rack. My gut tells me there's something wrong with the lines (bent/clogged?). The mechanic at the dealership is supposed to follow this procedure and based on what you've shown us, he isn't, otherwise you would have more information. I would get the opinion of another dealer or request a different tech at your dealer and tell them to troubleshoot the shit. Haven't they charged you diagnostic fees? The point of those fees is to understand the problem, not just slings parts at it.
Well, it started working again... randomly. I was driving down the street and it suddenly became easier to steer. Sometimes it steers with uneven force, but for the most part it's normal.
Mystery.
Mystery.
Based on your prior description, it sounds like it's just in its working phase of intermittent ability. I wouldn't be surprised if it returns. Report back after a while!
Any updates on this? My 2008 Type S has the same issue... it started as intermittent functionality, then it went out completely. No leaks observed but PS fluid was dirty. Mechanic replaced pump and it worked well for a while, now it's intermittent again.
I wish I had more information for you. It started working on February 20th and it's still going strong. I talked to a mechanic who thought that air might have been trapped in the lines or a line may have been kinked... but I have no idea.
So, I now have an update. If I steer to the lock, either left or right, it hisses quite loudly and I lose power steering, like there's air in the lines. After a couple of days staying out of the locks, I think it works the air out and steering returns to normal. I'm thinking there might be a leak somewhere that opens where I steer all the way left or right.
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Troubleshoot that bish. Instructions are above. 
If you don't work on your own car, ask your mechanic to troubleshoot it. And whenever they reach a diagnosis, always question them and ask them how they got there to make sure they're not blowing smoke just to sell you some parts. Ask them to show you too, if the issue is visible.

If you don't work on your own car, ask your mechanic to troubleshoot it. And whenever they reach a diagnosis, always question them and ask them how they got there to make sure they're not blowing smoke just to sell you some parts. Ask them to show you too, if the issue is visible.
So that situation would cause any small fault to show up, such as you indicate, a small air leak in the system. The hiss would indicate an air leak. Generally there is either a vacuum leak on the input hose to the PS pump, or a pressure leak in the rack.
There are many threads on pump/ input hose (O-ring) leaks. If the rack is leaking, it can leak into the rubber boots on the steering links and until they fill up, there will be no visible leak onto the outside (on the ground).
You do not state the age and condition of your PS system - ever replaced the PS fluid? do you have 80K or 180K miles on the car? 10% city or 90% city driving, which means 100 times the wear on the PS system.
Once the old fluid looses its lubricity and additives the rubber seals in the PS rack become hard enough to actually wear slots into the aluminum rack-body. Not much can be done at that point.
Yes, you did state that you had a new rack/ pump installed - but did the shop flush the old fluid out - completely out? or did they leave the old fluid full of metal wear shavings in the system? did they replace the system fluid tank, which contains an internal mesh screen/ filter? not much of a filter in any case, its just a plastic screen.
As already mentioned, a careful diagnosis is required, not just parts replacement - unfortunately, finding an actual mechanic and not just a parts replacer can be difficult - good luck and let us know the outcome.
another issue I noticed just today. damn the tl looks great, but all the problems I'm running into are a nightmare. going to have to drop at least $1000 in maintenance for everything that I think needs to be done to my poor car.
Another rack...?
The RDX Owner Manual specifically warns against holding the steering hard against the stops. When turning to the stops, maximum pressure is produced in the system, because maximum force to turn the wheels is required - that can be 1300 psi in the RDX system.
So that situation would cause any small fault to show up, such as you indicate, a small air leak in the system. The hiss would indicate an air leak. Generally there is either a vacuum leak on the input hose to the PS pump, or a pressure leak in the rack.
There are many threads on pump/ input hose (O-ring) leaks. If the rack is leaking, it can leak into the rubber boots on the steering links and until they fill up, there will be no visible leak onto the outside (on the ground).
You do not state the age and condition of your PS system - ever replaced the PS fluid? do you have 80K or 180K miles on the car? 10% city or 90% city driving, which means 100 times the wear on the PS system.
Once the old fluid looses its lubricity and additives the rubber seals in the PS rack become hard enough to actually wear slots into the aluminum rack-body. Not much can be done at that point.
Yes, you did state that you had a new rack/ pump installed - but did the shop flush the old fluid out - completely out? or did they leave the old fluid full of metal wear shavings in the system? did they replace the system fluid tank, which contains an internal mesh screen/ filter? not much of a filter in any case, its just a plastic screen.
As already mentioned, a careful diagnosis is required, not just parts replacement - unfortunately, finding an actual mechanic and not just a parts replacer can be difficult - good luck and let us know the outcome.
So that situation would cause any small fault to show up, such as you indicate, a small air leak in the system. The hiss would indicate an air leak. Generally there is either a vacuum leak on the input hose to the PS pump, or a pressure leak in the rack.
There are many threads on pump/ input hose (O-ring) leaks. If the rack is leaking, it can leak into the rubber boots on the steering links and until they fill up, there will be no visible leak onto the outside (on the ground).
You do not state the age and condition of your PS system - ever replaced the PS fluid? do you have 80K or 180K miles on the car? 10% city or 90% city driving, which means 100 times the wear on the PS system.
Once the old fluid looses its lubricity and additives the rubber seals in the PS rack become hard enough to actually wear slots into the aluminum rack-body. Not much can be done at that point.
Yes, you did state that you had a new rack/ pump installed - but did the shop flush the old fluid out - completely out? or did they leave the old fluid full of metal wear shavings in the system? did they replace the system fluid tank, which contains an internal mesh screen/ filter? not much of a filter in any case, its just a plastic screen.
As already mentioned, a careful diagnosis is required, not just parts replacement - unfortunately, finding an actual mechanic and not just a parts replacer can be difficult - good luck and let us know the outcome.
The car had roughly 109,000 miles when the rack was replaced. It now has 116,000. I drive 350 miles per week, 15% city. It's been about a month since the power steering failed again and hasn't come back on. I wouldn't even know there was any but for some intermittent hissing. I checked the o-ring and replaced it just in case. I replaced the pump, but nothing changed.
I took it to a nearby dealer who attempted to diagnose it and told me they couldn't find the problem and recommend replacing the pump and rack. So, yea, not going back there... (Neil Huffman Honda, New Albany, IN).
I'm convinced the mechanic either screwed up or the rack I bought really was defective. In either case, it's not a simple diagnosis. I'm planning on taking it to a new mechanic later this month and have him diagnose it. He's worked with Honda P/S systems before and is confident he can do the replacement for a fair price if it's needed.
So, that's where I am now. I figure it's going to be at least $900 if the rack needs replacing.
And your right. Finding a real mechanic who isn't trying to screw you is hard.
Quick update, I went to a new mechanic who I had heard very good things about. He was very competent and tested the car using the above methodology. The pump was dead, so he replaced it. The rack is also dead, so it will need to be replaced. He did say, however, that it may have just been installed wrong, in which case he can correct the problem.
I'll probably have the work done in the next couple of weeks.
I'll probably have the work done in the next couple of weeks.
There's always a pressure relief valve and/or a spool/boost valve in a power steering system. It sounds like it's getting stuck open. The fact that it happens more when it's turned full lock when it would be most likely to bypass confirms this even more. Look in the manual for any PRV. Don't replace the pump or rack again, that's crazy.
If I remember back when I was looking through the literature when the car was new, it has speed sensitive steering, usually reducing boost at higher speeds. If I'm remembering right, this might need to be looked into. I might be wrong about the speed sensitive steering.
But seriously, replacing the rack and pump AGAIN!?!?!
If I remember back when I was looking through the literature when the car was new, it has speed sensitive steering, usually reducing boost at higher speeds. If I'm remembering right, this might need to be looked into. I might be wrong about the speed sensitive steering.
But seriously, replacing the rack and pump AGAIN!?!?!
There's always a pressure relief valve and/or a spool/boost valve in a power steering system. It sounds like it's getting stuck open. The fact that it happens more when it's turned full lock when it would be most likely to bypass confirms this even more. Look in the manual for any PRV. Don't replace the pump or rack again, that's crazy.
If I remember back when I was looking through the literature when the car was new, it has speed sensitive steering, usually reducing boost at higher speeds. If I'm remembering right, this might need to be looked into. I might be wrong about the speed sensitive steering.
But seriously, replacing the rack and pump AGAIN!?!?!
If I remember back when I was looking through the literature when the car was new, it has speed sensitive steering, usually reducing boost at higher speeds. If I'm remembering right, this might need to be looked into. I might be wrong about the speed sensitive steering.
But seriously, replacing the rack and pump AGAIN!?!?!
Last edited by StealthTL-S; Jul 21, 2020 at 03:14 PM.
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Jul 25, 2016 09:18 AM


