No low end power...
#81
Team Owner
according to the code i have, one of the respected memebers here thinks it could be a bad abs modulator. which could cause these kind of symtomps. As i stated before the car drives much better with the VSA turned off. Now to my question, there is a fuse for "VSA" under the hood which is 40 AMP. Would removing the fuse completely shut off the VSA and not cause any other trouble other then a check engine light. I would like to try driving it like that to see if there is any difference...
I drove home in 107 degree weather and I was literally flooring it from every light just to keep up with traffic. I'm not exaggerating, I was smacking it down to the floor and backing off once it hit 5,000rpm. I ended up driving in manual mode to keep the rpms up. What a piece of shit.
#82
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
It would be extremely unlikely to be the abs modulator unless you're hearing the ABS kicking in.
I drove home in 107 degree weather and I was literally flooring it from every light just to keep up with traffic. I'm not exaggerating, I was smacking it down to the floor and backing off once it hit 5,000rpm. I ended up driving in manual mode to keep the rpms up. What a piece of shit.
I drove home in 107 degree weather and I was literally flooring it from every light just to keep up with traffic. I'm not exaggerating, I was smacking it down to the floor and backing off once it hit 5,000rpm. I ended up driving in manual mode to keep the rpms up. What a piece of shit.
im waiting for the new Golf R thats coming to the states and its only available in manual. I drove the GTI and i love it but the Golf R is a little more sophisticated. grown up. But so much fun to drive its amazing.
#84
I have a 2007 TL-S 6MT and I'm having the same problem. It is progressively getting worse over time. I notice that during the winter time I did not have a single episode of lost power or hesitation. Now we are into the summer time I've noticed it at least 3-4 times so far since it has been getting warmer. The loss of power doesn't happen right away, it takes about 15-25 minutes, sometimes longer. Normally I notice it on my ride home from work (but not to work in the morning). It usually shows up once I've gotten off the highway and I'm in stop and go traffic. Much like others have described, it's like I need to floor the car to keep up with other cars. Once the RPMs build the car picks up quick, but it's still not the same.
I noticed something new that's also starting to happen. Yesterday on my way to work, I merged onto a busy road. Once my car started moving I gave it full throttle while in 1st gear. There was no tire slippage, but once I got up into the 6K RPM range, it was like the car just completely cut the throttle by 100% and the car jerked. This was right before I was about to shift into second. The VSA light was not flashing, so I don't think it was that. It was really a harsh cut of the throttle. I have had the VSA kick in before due to wheel slippage and it was nothing like this.
I've got 72K miles on the car, I've done air filter, and I've also run a gas cleaner about 8-10 months ago. I only use 93 octane from tier 1 stations. I've reset the ECU once in the past and didn't notice any difference. I haven't tried turning off the VSA like I read earlier, so I'll have to try that now.
I'm not sure how to get this to reproduce in order to have someone look at my car while it's happening. This is really frustrating like I'm sure many of you already know.
I noticed something new that's also starting to happen. Yesterday on my way to work, I merged onto a busy road. Once my car started moving I gave it full throttle while in 1st gear. There was no tire slippage, but once I got up into the 6K RPM range, it was like the car just completely cut the throttle by 100% and the car jerked. This was right before I was about to shift into second. The VSA light was not flashing, so I don't think it was that. It was really a harsh cut of the throttle. I have had the VSA kick in before due to wheel slippage and it was nothing like this.
I've got 72K miles on the car, I've done air filter, and I've also run a gas cleaner about 8-10 months ago. I only use 93 octane from tier 1 stations. I've reset the ECU once in the past and didn't notice any difference. I haven't tried turning off the VSA like I read earlier, so I'll have to try that now.
I'm not sure how to get this to reproduce in order to have someone look at my car while it's happening. This is really frustrating like I'm sure many of you already know.
#85
Safety Car
iTrader: (4)
I started a thread the other day hoping it wouild get some activity but it hasnt so far. Its basically similar to what you guys are talking about now with the lack of power depending on outside air temperature. I am experiencing a surging during normal acceleration in my 08 6mt. The other day it was cool outside and the car drove pretty nicely. Basically, I was wondering what specifically could it be thats causing our engines to surge or have a loss of power in warmer outside temps?
Here is my thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/what-sensors-components-effected-outside-air-temperature-823887/
It was 64 degrees the other night and it was soooooo nice to drive a smooth accelerating car again, but the temps are back into the 80's and I know the thing is going to be crappy again. My wife calls my car "shake'n bake" LOL
P.S. "I Hate Cars":
I was reading your old thread about relocating the IAT sensor. Im still trying to diagnose my surging issue on my 08 6mt Type S. Seems that it is for sure outside air temperatire related. The car did not surge much when it was in the 60's the other day it was nice. So I wanna give this a shot to see what happens. Only thing is I tried this a while back and my check engine light came on with the IAT sensor not installed into the manifold. Does the manifold act as a ground or something for the sensor? I had the hole sealed obviously, and the sensor connected but the check engine light still came on. Yours didnt do this?
Thanks,
james
Here is my thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/what-sensors-components-effected-outside-air-temperature-823887/
It was 64 degrees the other night and it was soooooo nice to drive a smooth accelerating car again, but the temps are back into the 80's and I know the thing is going to be crappy again. My wife calls my car "shake'n bake" LOL
P.S. "I Hate Cars":
I was reading your old thread about relocating the IAT sensor. Im still trying to diagnose my surging issue on my 08 6mt Type S. Seems that it is for sure outside air temperatire related. The car did not surge much when it was in the 60's the other day it was nice. So I wanna give this a shot to see what happens. Only thing is I tried this a while back and my check engine light came on with the IAT sensor not installed into the manifold. Does the manifold act as a ground or something for the sensor? I had the hole sealed obviously, and the sensor connected but the check engine light still came on. Yours didnt do this?
Thanks,
james
Last edited by JTS97Z28; 06-25-2011 at 11:18 AM.
#86
Team Owner
Mine still drives just fine for the first summer in a very long time. I start it, turn VSA off and put it in gear. No more surging, it drives great, normal summer power loss. It won't work if you're already moving and turn VSA off but I remember on the dyno when I accidentally left VSA on, once the wheels start to move, turning VSA off does nothing until you come to a dead stop.
It's not catalytic converters, there would be very little power loss at light throttle/low rpm and it would get worse and worse as you gave it more throttle and rpms increased.
It's not catalytic converters, there would be very little power loss at light throttle/low rpm and it would get worse and worse as you gave it more throttle and rpms increased.
#87
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
im gonna try changing the knock sensor this coming up week. Lets see if that does anything....
Last edited by BukvaMan; 06-25-2011 at 05:57 PM.
#88
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ok i have new definition for my car, ever since i installed the PCD, my Tl when she pulls she really pulls but when she doesnt she just stinks
#89
10th Gear
I have noticed the same exact thing on my 07 TL S auto. We also have a 4 cyl 08 Camry which has really nice low torque but just makes noise in the high rpms.
#90
Safety Car
iTrader: (8)
Glad i am not the only one experiencing this. 2005 TL 6spd felt like that yesterday. i could tell something wasnt right. Mods i have are a K&N Drop Filter, RV6 V3 Long J-pipe, and Excelerate Non Resonator Quad Exhaust. Oil change every 4k miles with Mobil-1 5w-20 extended performance and the car has only 56k miles. No junk in the trunk. In the mornings it pull really strong but I started to notice in the afternoon about a week or two ago (Texas heat) it felt like i have no power from the low end until I start to it that 3500+.
#92
takin care of Business in
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^^^ this
Ultimate cooling mod + a coolant bypass mod will help you guys....if I was in TX in that soaking heat, I would also put an aftermarket transmission cooler....
Ultimate cooling mod + a coolant bypass mod will help you guys....if I was in TX in that soaking heat, I would also put an aftermarket transmission cooler....
#93
Intermediate
I kept the original but bought cat deletes from richie. All in all she runs better, but when she really runs the way she should then you cant belive how strong she pulls and no loss in low end torque. I think i gained some actually. I was also afraid of that but i was wrong i guess, at least in my experience. 1st, 2nd and third gear pull like never before. well at least untill she gets lazy
Also, did you ever adjust your valves? Yes I know you said you car only has 36k on it but I have seen Honda valves go out of spec in as little as 15K do your self the favor and check your valves.
#94
Team Owner
I think that could be your issue a little. When you first reset your ECU your car is running in open loop which would make the car run alright with no cats. Once the car gets to closed loop you would be running an incorrect A/F ratio which may be the source of your problems. I have modified a lot of cars in my time and what you are describing sounds like a tuning issue.
Also, did you ever adjust your valves? Yes I know you said you car only has 36k on it but I have seen Honda valves go out of spec in as little as 15K do your self the favor and check your valves.
Also, did you ever adjust your valves? Yes I know you said you car only has 36k on it but I have seen Honda valves go out of spec in as little as 15K do your self the favor and check your valves.
I agree it's probably a tuning issue or very possibly the ECU and traction control error. If I turn my VSA off after starting the car, I have no issues.
#95
Safety Car
iTrader: (4)
Just thought I would chime in again. There is for sure some sort of issue with the TL that causes it to really suffer in the heat.... More so than most cars. Some may remember my surging issue on my 08 type S and slight lack of power in everything but WOT. Well I bought another Type S 6mt. This car has absolutely NO power loss whatsoever in any temp. It has been near 100 degrees lately and I'm still amazed at how this particular Type S feels all the time excellent low and mid range power and excellent throttle response. These cars are weird to say the least.
James
James
#98
Safety Car
iTrader: (4)
Well yes for the time being lol
I wasnt kidding in my "issue" thread that if myself or Acura couldnt figure out my surging issue I was going to buy a different Type S. So I did just that :-) here is my small collection of 6MT Type S's lol
My original 2008 Type S is sold though I have the buyer picking it up on saturday. Either way its still a gorgeous car, its just something minor that I noticed and the average person may not even notice it. I can however say besides the minor surging my 08 did, the 07 6mt I bought absolutely has not suffered from any sort of heat soak power loss. I have driven my new to me 07 6mt in Texas 100+ heat index and it feels great. I really hope we can figure this issue out as it was enough of an issue to get me to sell mine.
I wasnt kidding in my "issue" thread that if myself or Acura couldnt figure out my surging issue I was going to buy a different Type S. So I did just that :-) here is my small collection of 6MT Type S's lol
My original 2008 Type S is sold though I have the buyer picking it up on saturday. Either way its still a gorgeous car, its just something minor that I noticed and the average person may not even notice it. I can however say besides the minor surging my 08 did, the 07 6mt I bought absolutely has not suffered from any sort of heat soak power loss. I have driven my new to me 07 6mt in Texas 100+ heat index and it feels great. I really hope we can figure this issue out as it was enough of an issue to get me to sell mine.
#101
Safety Car
iTrader: (8)
Hope this helps but here is something a came across
http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3425
I believe someone mention this earlier about the IAT (intake air temperture) sensor.
http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3425
I believe someone mention this earlier about the IAT (intake air temperture) sensor.
#102
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that would be awesome if someone can have em made for our TL's....
#104
Just yesterday I pulled out & punched it, what a POS! Up until 3,500 RPM's there was nothing! NO POWER. What a embarrasment when cars behind you are flying up on your ass. If I could afford to I'd get rid of it.
#105
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^^^ what mods you got....
#107
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yeah there will be no codes....try doing the Ultimate Cooling Mod....I am working on another mod to get a lotta COLD air inside my AEM CAI....lets see how that goes
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