Hi Guys (and girls), after putting in the F/F Type II's, I had planned on leaving the front strut tower brace off for a week until i really got the coilovers dialed in to the setting i wanted.
Yesterday morning, I noticed my windshield cracked from the exact bottom corner, and up at a 45 degree angle about 2 feet. There is NO flaw that is evident such as a rock chip or anything else that might have contributed to it.
I'm assuming that maybe the car is 'flexing' too much without the tower brace?
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1)i already searched "cracked windshield" and another search for "strut tower brace", and thru endless pages can't find better info, sorry. i know lots of people have had cracked windshields, but all those seem to be due to even the smallest rock chip.
2)I'm in Florida on vacation, and don't have the strut brace with me, so I'm wondering if it's safe to keep driving without it, i'm replacing the windshield anyways now...or if i should either order an aftermarket brace or find the original brace off a wrecked TL immediately?

 

In other posts the lack of a Front Strut Brace has been associated with windsheilds cracking in the past.

I don't recall reading anything that identifed the cause 100% for sure, but you're not the first person it's happened to.

 

On a different subject Bearcat, why is it that when I do searches, in quotes, for "cracked windshield" and again for "front strut brace", did i not see very many threads related to the actual subject (rather many pages of threads only very loosely related).... and NO threads that mention the lack of bracing resulting in cracked windshields at all? With no sarcasm at all, am I really that noobish on doing the search function that I'm doing something wrong, and if so, is there a 'key' to the commands and options of the search functions so I can do better next time?

 

Truth is Search is easiest to use when you already know where to look.

I always use the Advanced Search feature. I narrow the search to the most likely sub-forum(s) and don't search "child forums".

If I know a user name that posted the info I'm after, I'll put that in.

I usually search "whole posts", but occasionally "titles" and I get results as "threads" not "posts".


Here's a couple for "Stress Crack":

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...2&postcount=65

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...t=Stress+Crack

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...t=Stress+Crack

 

It's definitely possible. You stiffened the suspension and weakened the structure where the entire weight of the front end sits. Double trouble. Hit a bump and the towers try and move in toward each other. Other than the firewall, there's nothing else to support this motion.

As for dialing in the shocks, you can't properly dial them in with the chassis flexing. Whatever settings you choose will be thrown off when you stiffen it back up again. With the strut tower bar removed, the entire car flexing is acting as the suspension. You can generally get away with softer damper settings with a stiffer chassis. Let the suspension do the work, not the chassis.

 

Cool, ordering a new brace today

 

simple.... car is flexing too much now, up near the windshield, and stiff coilovers only exaggerate the flexing issue

 

In a unibody car, the windshield will be subjected to flexing. So yes, a shock tower is needed if it came with the vehicle. Its not just for aesthetics.

 

for learning something new!

 

I am a necromancer


I've been running no front strut tower bar for months now, with going over bad roads and moderate-heavy cornering sometimes

i'm on FF2

Now I read this thread

fuuuuuck

I don't have money to shell oout for this

 

You can dremel off the top of the factory brace in the mean time or add holes to it so you have some sort of bracing like the guys did when the installed the Tein SS EDFC.

The factory windshield helps prevent the car from flexing, acura did this on purpose to save weight in the TL and as well to make a car that was more nimble! Running no brace puts an extra strain on the windshield, any any sort of imperfection in the glass can lead to it cracking with a hard enough turn.

 

 

Yep - I had a Jetta years ago that cracked the windshield just like that when I hit a curb pulling into a parking lot.

 

I don't have anything strong enough to cut the oem strut. I sent an email to heeltoe and hopefully I can get one asap.

I drive everyday and will have to go thru a lot of unavoidable bad road

 

We recommend installing an aftermarket front brace, such as the Fastline Performance brace. This supports the chassis as well as provides space for adjusters or even an EDFC if you have a Tein SS kit.

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-...ompatible.html



This brace is DOM chromoly steel, same stuff they make roll cages out of!

 

Good looking brace. I put the RV6 strut bar on and it clears the tops of the coils nicely as well.

Sucks to hear that. I did read a good thread on windshields to look for when replacing. Our windshields are acoustically designed as well for road noise.

So make sure you get a good windshield when you replace it.

 

Which, ironically will be this week. Rock chip on freeway in Texas got me.
This is windshield #3 I believe (I went with a Pilkington glass last time, which is what used to be called PPG, it is OEM spec and *should* be an acoustical(?) glass. Sucks that Florida insurance law doesn't cover the replacement for free like it does in Texas...

 

Florida covers glass! I got a brand new AP Tech windsheild that was EXACTLY like the OEM factory one and it's perfect! It doesn't say honda on it but it's just the same.

Plinkington glass tends to be good quality, but soft and wil get that "sandblasted" look to it over 50-60K miles. The Factory AP TECH glass is great!