I was changing my ATF and needed some extra space to get to the fill bolt so I removed the cover from the fuse box. As I was loosening the bolt the ratchet slipped and I saw a spark from the two bolts on the left side of the fuses. Now I don't have any electric at all. Car doesn't show any signs of life when I put the key in. Please tell me it's just a blown fuse and not a destroyed electrical system or something

 

Have you looked to see if any of the fuses are blown? You might want to look in other fuse box locations as well.

 

I've checked the clear ones but don't know how to check the big solid ones. There also appears to be one almost all the way on the left that's black long and skinny with a circled "1", 120, four squares (one filled in white), a circled "2", then 70. Don't know what that is or how to check it. The picture in the manual doesn't look like it matches the fuse box layout.

 

I just spoke with a friend of mine who works on cars he said it might be the main electrical relay? Which one is that?

 

That's the big one you mentioned, disconnect the battery and remove the two screws you see by the big fuse then pull it up and out resistance across it should be 0 ohms it has 3 terminals on it the one on the bottom completes some connections internal to the fuse block make sure from any pin to all the other pins is 0 ohms

 

Well sure enough. I don't have anything to check the resistance but i can see through the little window that the connection on the 120 side is blown.



It's only like $5 but nobody around here has it. I can't get it until Wednesday morning. Looks like I'll need to borrow a car for work tomorrow

Thanks for the help, guys. Glad my stupidity didn't cost me more than that

 

Could be worse!

 

On further inspection...

 

Funny part about this fuse is the 2nd fuse in it that goes down into the fuse block is 70A and I can't find it anywhere in the FSM, no mention of it or the connections it completes.

With my big 3 upgrade I can actually run the car with this fuse pulled, since my battery, alternator and starter connection are all on the opposite side as the FSM has it right now but I get a VSA/ABS light sometimes if I have the fuse pulled because of whatever connections it makes through the bottom that the FSM doesn't show anywhere.

 

The 70A side is unused according to the ETM...

Just slap a dab of solder on that and you'll be good as new

 

This 'Big 3 Upgrade' runs a large gauge conductor off the battery and alternator right to the under hood distribution box bypassing the main fuse?

 

It's definitely a part of something. I completely removed the fuse and drove the car for a while to see if it would affect anything. That long copper pin must complete some connections in the fuse box because with the fuse out if my VSA engaged I'd get an ABS light and then my VSA light would stick on. Re-installing the fuse made it go away.

The fused spot on it may not protect anything, but that long copper pin coming out the bottom is definitely completing some connections in there.

In mine I have my big 3 going to the front connection on the fuse box, where the alternator cable originally is connected to. Then I have the OEM alternator connection on the connection where the starter/batt+ cable was.

I can delete the OEM alternator cable and actually re-use the terminal with a 4AWG cable and run it inside for an audio system, that I may do eventually but I have to pull the whole alternator cable out of the engine harness to do so.

With it setup this way I can pull the 120A fuse and everything still works just fine, car starts no problems, alternator charges the battery still. I have an in-line fuse to on my 0AWG big-3 cable. My big-3 is connected to ..

- Batt +
- In-line fuse to Alternator +
- Starter

I've been thinking of moving it back over to the other side where it was originally since the terminal there is larger.

Here's a pic..

 

Funny that's what a buddy of mine said. I decided against it. I'm the guy who blew a fuse changing his ATF after all... God only knows what else I'd screw up if I tried that

 

just to let you know, red text indicates sarcasm.
so, nfnsquared wasnt actually suggesting you to solder it.

 

I was wondering what that was about... Thanks for the info

 

Dunno, ETM for 2004-2005 says "Not Used"...

 

Hey so why does the fuse box key in my 06 TL manual not look like that? When I first blew the fuse I referenced the manual to see if I could figure out which one it might be. The one in the manual didn't look anything like the actual fuse box under the hood (and no it wasn't the one under the dash, either). I'll post a picture of it tomorrow.

 

Here's the 04TL manual page for that fuse box:

http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...404O00242B.pdf

 

That looks more like it. Why the change?