zims2730

Hey guys,
I am new to using forums, but am completely stuck and don't know what to do, so am looking for an assistance problem. My 6 speed manual is not working properly, if at all and the dealership is telling me its my fault. It started a couple days ago, when I was driving on the highway, and attempted to shift the car into 4th gear to pass, able to what would have been matching RPMs perfectly, the car would not physically allow my to put the car in 4th gear. The next day, when I want to drive my baby, the car would shift into first, but the shift lever needed an abnormally large amount of force to shift the car out of, 1st gear, and so fourth through the gears, and felt as if, even though the clutch was depressed, the flywheel was not actually disengaged from the transmission. Almost the exact opposite of the you would assume a burnt clutch would do. The car has never been abused, it is an 07 TYPE-S with 5,126 miles on it. The dealership, attempted the "change the transmission oil fix" told me the car was fixed, on my request they test drove it again, and told me it wasn't, obviously this was not going to fix the issues I was having. They now tell me the clutch is toast, because of fiber they see when they removed the inspection plate. The car has never been abused, and I have never even smelt a hint of burning clutch. They want me to authorize $800 for tear down, and that they are assuming it is my fault, but this is only to see if there are burn spots on the clutch, not even begin the repair, once they confirm the issue was "caused" by me. What do I do? What could the problem actually be? HELP!!!
Thanks guys,
Brian

01tl4tl

See other threads on bad pressure plate on the new cars causing excess wear
Its supposed to self adjust but seems to over do the job!

Dealers are learning about it- call Acura Care at 1-800-382-2238 x5 6am -5pm pacific m-f
with your VIN and be prepared to explain whats going on

The dealer has to have authorization from you to pull the trans and inspect
If they find warranty prob- then they pay all of it.
If its abuse they can prove- its on you to pay for new clutch parts and the labor

Read up and be prepared- talk ONLY with the Service Manager and not a service writer

zims2730

That 800 number is crap!!! The guy I talked to could not have been ruder, and was completely and utterly unwilling to listen to my complaint... Anyone in particular people have talked to, and was willing to assist with a problem like this? THANKS!

jmbnova

Call back until you get someone who can help you. Make sure you explain how rdue the first person you talked to was....

csmeance

complain as much as you can, they will listen and do something.

Xx06SickspdTlxX

The car only has 5k miles on it how much damage can you actually do? They should be able to cover this under a goodwill fix! I misshifted my accord v6 6-speed with about 5k miles told them that it was an accident and they one time goodwilled the whole top end of the motor!

zims2730

Thats what they are now saying it is, a misshift...
I don't recall doing it, but, does that really "ruin" a clutch? shouldn't the clutch hold up? Xx06SickcpdTlxXm once it was fixed, did run as new? Thanks guy for the help!!!

dtapia

what dealer are you taking it to ? have you tryed a diffrent acura dealer ?
i can say i have not seen a problem like this yet on a 07 yet and we sell a lot of the type s mt

zims2730

They said they are replacing it as a "courtesy" repair, because there are no signs of abuse... They were looking for "blue-ing" on the flywheel and didn't find any... Its at the dealer where I bought it. This is not the first dealer I took it too, I had towed, my dime from Eugene Oregon, to Salem Oregon... I guess they are fixing it, but I'm still upset about the whole situation and how Acura treated me, any further advice? dtapia, anybody, anything?

Eoanou

At least it's being repaired, their only saying it's a goodwill repair to get you to think that they are doing you a favor. That way you'll feel like purchasing another car from then since they're so nice, lol it's what every dealer does. Blame it on you, then do a "good-will" repair.

dtapia

i would ask to speak to the dpsm and explain the situation and be very calm and collective about it. acura does not want to have upset customers. plus you should get a e survey from acura and a phone call in a day or less. unless the service adviser changed your telephone # which they do in case they suspect and client that will slam them and the dealer. i know im on the 07 percision team for acura and we see it all.been a percision team dealer has it's perks from time to time. let us know what happens ok.

onyx1121

I hate to admit it, but this is the experience I have had with almost *every* Acura dealer in Phoenix. In general, I find the service at Acura dealerships to be far below satisfactory, especially in terms of the expertise and knowledge of the mechanics. I am sure there is a "good" mechanic at every dealership, the problem is that they are probably not the ones working on your car.

My solution: I found an amazing mechanic who knows what he is doing. Even though he has no waiting room, and the place is a mess, I know I can put complete confidence in him. It got to the point that I rarely even questioned repairs; I just gave him the credit card. Not to mention the fact that anyone who owns an NSX in Phoenix takes their car to him...and I assure you NSX owners do not tolerate any kind of incompetence when it comes to their "baby."

So basically, I would just accept that dealing with Acura Service is going to be a hassle. I did it for 4 years on my Integra Type-R, and I could tell you some great stories showing how clueless they were sometimes.

Glad to hear things seem to be working out though

zims2730

Its just sad, not bragging, but cars are a hobby of mine, I'm 22, and I've had 5 new cars, I've never been treated and this upset about a situations, its too bad Acura probably lost a customer for life, and who knows how many I would have bought, let alone, bad mouth there service enough that friends and acquaintances don't purchase an Acura...

6spMike

I had similar symptoms at 18k miles, search for "I gotta eat some clutch crow" for the thread. After being very calm and asking a lot of questions, they replaced the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and throwout bearing under warranty. Acura of Peoria on Bell Rd did the work. My firm belief is the self-adjusting pressure plate in these cars can fail and over-adjust, causing the symptoms you had.
Does yours feel different now than when it was new?
After they replaced the parts, the clutch pedal took much less effort, and it started to engage further from the floor, which felt a lot more normal to me.
Had I not had the background to ask the right questions, I'd be out around $3500.

I made a simple tool to measure clutch actuation pressure and stroke, so I could keep track of the clutch characteristics; hopefully I'll be able to tell when it starts to go south again.

You need:
about 3 feet of PVC pipe, 1/2 inch will do.
an end cap for the pipe.
A spring with the right stiffness that fits inside the PVC. It needs to be flexible enough to compress with the amount of pressure you use to push the clutch, but not so stiff that it won't compress with that amount of pressure. The spring I found depresses about 3 inches with 20 lbs applied.
A dowel that fits inside the PVC, long enough to stick out an inch or two when the spring is fully compressed.
I got it all at Ace hardware for less than $10.

Put the end cap on the PVC pipe, you don't need glue.
Put the spring in the PVC pipe.
Put the dowel on top of the spring in the PVC pipe.
This is your tool.

Put the capped end of the pipe on the clutch pedal.
Depress the pedal, pushing on only the dowel, until the pedal just barely touches the floor.
Mark the dowel with a pencil at the end of the PVC pipe.
Now, using a bathroom scale, press down on the dowel until you reach the mark. The scale reads the clutch pedal depression effort.

You can also use it to measure how far from the floor the clutch travels before engaging.
Caution: Do this somewhere where it won't matter if the car lurches forward.
Push the clutch all the way to the floor with the PVC pipe.
Laying a pencil against the steering wheel, mark the PVC pipe.
Start the car and put it in gear.
Let the clutch out very slowly with the PVC pipe until you feel the engine start to drag. Mark the PVC pipe again.
The difference between the two marks is the distance from the floor when the clutch starts to engage.
Mine with the new parts is 20.5 lbs of force to depress the clutch, and it starts to engage 1.25" from the floor.