MIRANDA89

Need some advice from some of you TL gurus on here. Last night as I was moving my car out of the carport to move my toy inside. The CEL on my TL turned on and stayed on. This morning I find out it was showing about 8 codes.

P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306

and last was P0174.

Which means all cylinders are misfiring. The thing is the car the exact same as always. NO bogging or shuddering throughout the rpms. The cel stays on so I'm not sure what to do in this case. I searched and read it could be bad gas , maybe even coil packs or spark plugs.
Just want to know what you guys recommend me to do?
Can I still drive her around?tia

ez12a

how many miles? timing belt job done? Wondering if some coolant from a WP replacement fudged up the CP sensor.

MIRANDA89

101,000 Sorry should have included that in OP. Car is a 2006 6 speed with 101k miles. No timing belt done that i know of. Got the car from the 1st owner at like 88k miles.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

6mt and misfiring!?!!!?

maybe an over-rev condition?

I would clear the codes and see if they came back.
if they come back, then I would investigate into the plugs and coils.

if after plugs and coils check out, I would then look into the heads.

MIRANDA89

The car hardly ever sees above 3k, its my daily I don't beat on it. So I really doubt it could be something regarding the heads.

Also how do I clear the codes?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I believe only a OBDII scanner tool can clear them.
get them cleared at an auto parts store.

then see if they come back.

LGcbp8

I got these codes at the beginning of October to(didn't get P1074 though). I cleared the codes off and drove it to see if they would come back on or not after cycling through that tank of gas. 10 days later about 200-250 miles later and on a fresh tank of gas the same codes came back on. I felt that eliminated a bad tank of gas as being the cause. Both times it was only in the morning after sitting all night (garaged) and I had been experiencing rough idle recently for the first few mins upon start-up. And it drove fine.

I then took it to the dealer and had them check it out. All they found was the timing belt was "off one notch" and the tensioner needed to be replaced. It's been about 9 days now since then, I'm waiting to see if the codes come back or not. I'm not confident what they did fixed it yet. The rough idle has been better but not all gone since then and I can feel some light hesitation sometimes around 2k-4500 rpms. I also put in some injector cleaner last tank. Waiting to see if it makes any difference then to see where to go next. Hope that helps.

(08 tls 6mt 143k+)

MIRANDA89

I believe the auto parts store wont clear the codes. Wont restarting the ecu clear the codes also?

LGcbp8

Yes just pull the neg on your battery terminal for a few mins then put back on and the codes are cleared.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

if the auto parts store has a OBDII reader/scanner; it has the ability to clear the codes.
you can try un hooking the battery for about a minute or two.

MIRANDA89

Alright thank you guys. Should I still drive the car normally and hope its just an ecu hiccup or something?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^thats the only way to tell.
this is why we're saying to reset the CEL by unhooking the neg. cable from the battery for a few mins.

if the codes do come back, then we know its serious.
for now, it could be anything.

MIRANDA89

Just disconnected the neg. Will drive it to work today, hopefully the codes never come back.


Anyone recommend a seafoam or injector cleaner for now?

nfnsquared

FYI:

1. Disconnecting the battery will not clear the codes (DTCs). All that does is reset the MIL.
2. Most major auto parts stores with OBD readers will not reset the codes due to liability concerns.

Edit: Could have just been spurious. Only time/driving will tell. If the MIL doesn't come back on, then I wouldn't worry about it. Can't remember if the 2006 had a TSB for ECU reflash, you should check the TSB page.

Edit2: FYI, p0174 is fuel too lean on front bank, could be low fuel pressure, valve clearance issues, or injectors per the SM. Or could just have been a spurious blip.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^ohh thanks!
I have my own scanner, and I assumed that they could reset the code

MIRANDA89

So is there anyway to clear the codes without a obd scanner? As i dont have one.

LGcbp8

Taking the negative battery cable off will clear it off the MID as nfnsquared said. And then as you are driving it if the issue reoccurs the ecu will identify the codes again and they'll pop-up on your MID again. Then you'll know if it was just a bad tank of gas or something else of a long list of possibilities.

MIRANDA89

Just drove 20 miles to work, car drove perfect didn't skip a beat.

Should I still reset the code once I get to an obd scanner?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^i would.
its a test.
you're testing to see if the lights come back on.
if the lights come back on, then you would know its something serious and then you can start to investigate further.

So, reset CEL.
drive.
if CEL comes back on, look into your coils and then spark plugs.
if coils and spark plugs look great, and you're still getting CEL,
THEN, investigate into the heads.

this is called trouble shooting.

MIRANDA89

Can I reset the code by pulling the clock fuse? I remember reading something about that.

MIRANDA89

Just realized you edited your post.

What do you mean by ECU reflash?

Also the guy at the auto parts store said that the p0174 code might be on due tue the misfires.
I've noticed my valves are a lot louder then I would expect, compared to my nissan maxima,with the vq35. Maybe she needs a valve adjustment?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I still think its an over-rev condition.
downshifting and miss 4th and put it into 2nd....
this would bend valves and would throw the CEL, saying multiple misfires. car would still drive normally.

the older years 04-05 had a TSB(Technical Service bulletin) for something going on with the ECU. the Dealers simply flashed the ECU to an upgraded version

MIRANDA89

Can't be an over rev condition, car has probably seen 6k maybe 5 times since ive had her.

Wouldnt bend valves show some kind of a sign?like smoking of some sort?

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

I had the same thing happen to me almost three weeks ago. The car is still at the dealer getting worked on. They replaced my spark plugs, coils, rechecked the timing belt, rechecked the valves, swapped the injectors out, performed a leak down test, and then determined its something in the head. Sent out the head and the valve guides on cylinder one were pretty loose. Replaced those and hopefully will be getting the car back on thursday. This honestly has me puzzled because I have an auto, there's no way I can over rev.

nfnsquared

I doubt it. Our engines are somewhat notorious for the so called "valve noise", which may or may not actually be from the valve train. Also, our valve clearances so far are showing only a very small movement at the 105K point. I would not be the least bit worried about needing a valve adjustment at this point.

If it was due to an over rev, I'd assume you would already have had a repeat of the MIL. And with a 6MT, the only way you could have over revved it would be to miss a shift. You can't over rev it by taking it to red line under normal or hard acceleration. If you are certain you've never missed a shift, then I wouldn't worry about it.

Just keep driving it. If the MIL doesn't come back on, chalk it up to a spurious event. Just as an aside, you may want to verify that water is not getting into the ECU (due to a plugged A/C drain tube).

MIRANDA89

So I stopped by my friends shop today before work. Hooked up the obd scanner and no codes showed up, not even any pending codes which he found strange. All I did was unhook the negative for about 10 min. Car still drove fine to work and no cels so far.

MIRANDA89

I'm not worried about an over rev condition. That's for sure.

Also what do you mean by water getting in the ecu?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

good.
now wait to see if the codes pop back up.
if they dont, you're good!

if they do, we can trouble shoot further.

P.S. there have been reports of the A/C drain tube getting clogged which then caused water to drip onto the ECU.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

has the car been over heated?

MIRANDA89

Where do I find this a/c drain tube at? Want to make sure its not dripping onto mine.

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

Not that I know of, unless the previous owner did. I bought the car when it was just shy of 30k almost four yrs ago. I practically over maintain my car because I do alot of highway driving and never want to run into any issues on the side of the road. Sorry OP Im not trying to high jack your thread or anything. Best of luck getting everything up and running again!

MIRANDA89

No worries man, if anything it keeps my thread at the top. Hopefully more people can chime in.

nfnsquared

Hmmm.... that would worry me that there is a fault in the ECU or it has water damage. The codes (DTCs) should still be there. They are stored in non-volatile memory in the ECU and do not get erased by disconnecting the battery.

Check the passenger side carpet up for any wetness (up near the top left). See the picture in this post:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...25&postcount=7

MIRANDA89

Just checked the carpet. Even took off the little screw and looked inside. Everything looks dry , no moisture or wetness anywhere. I could see the ecu in there as well.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Okay, what I can gather from the drain tubes; is that they are from the sunroof.
there are four. two drain out from the back.

and then two drain out through the front.

nfnsquared

No, it's the A/C drain tube that causes the ECU problems (the one that causes the puddles on the garage floor in the summer). IIRC, it's found on the passenger side near the firewall (in the engine compartment). If it gets plugged, water backs up in the A/C housing inside the car and eventually spills out on top of the ECU.

It's been plugged by a spider's nest and also mechanically by oil change techs who didn't like getting dripped on (and then they forgot to remove it).

MIRANDA89

I also have not turned on the a/c for about a week. Since the weather is cooling down here. Should I maybe turn it on and look for a leak?

One_silly_wabbit

Sounds to me like you need to check your egr ports, I work for honda and this is a common problem with accord vs. the egr ports in the intake mani become clogged causing multiple or random misfire codes.

MIRANDA89

Where are these egr ports you speak of?

One_silly_wabbit

if you take the engine cover off you will see a aluminum plate on top with about 12 bolts and two nuts, remove those bolts and nuts and take the plate off, be careful not to pinch rubber gasket. if you look on the right (facing the engine) under the metal bracket which is secured by two 12 mm bolts there will be a pin hole about the diameter of a marker. if clogged stick close hanger and brake clean or carb clean and plunge hole until clear. it wouldnt hurt to blow it out with a chuck if possible.