Need help, 6spd TL not taking gears!!!
03-22-2010, 08:20 AM
#1
Need help, 6spd TL not taking gears!!!
Sup aziners... I need ur help, on my way home last nite from our meet my car started acting up.
So basically I was on 6th gear went to downshift to 4th and literally my clutch pedal is vibrating and clutch pedal is not engaging my gears....
All my fluids are good, also have good flow on da slave cylinder.
Wat do u think is da problem? CMC? Clutch? Pressure Plate? Helpppp!
So basically I was on 6th gear went to downshift to 4th and literally my clutch pedal is vibrating and clutch pedal is not engaging my gears....
All my fluids are good, also have good flow on da slave cylinder.
Wat do u think is da problem? CMC? Clutch? Pressure Plate? Helpppp!
03-22-2010, 11:24 AM
#2
Registered Member
Sup aziners... I need ur help, on my way home last nite from our meet my car started acting up.
So basically I was on 6th gear went to downshift to 4th and literally my clutch pedal is vibrating and clutch pedal is not engaging my gears....
All my fluids are good, also have good flow on da slave cylinder.
Wat do u think is da problem? CMC? Clutch? Pressure Plate? Helpppp!
So basically I was on 6th gear went to downshift to 4th and literally my clutch pedal is vibrating and clutch pedal is not engaging my gears....
All my fluids are good, also have good flow on da slave cylinder.
Wat do u think is da problem? CMC? Clutch? Pressure Plate? Helpppp!
Can you elaborate a bit more about your problem? For example, when you start the engine and move your shifter into first gear, does the shift complete? Do you feel any vibrations or "chattering/shuttering" through the clutch pedal as you release it? Is this happening in all cases and situations or just under certain and specific conditions?
03-22-2010, 01:46 PM
#4
Ok, so while the car is off i am able to go thru my gears, turn the car on and im not able to even put it in 1st....
when i step on my clutch pedal and start releasing it slowly thats when the vibration starts...
i did a test that Alex (infamouslink8) told me to do which was, turn the car off put it on 2nd gear and turn it on, while i did that wit the clutch pedal all the way down to the floor car jerked back and forth
when i step on my clutch pedal and start releasing it slowly thats when the vibration starts...
i did a test that Alex (infamouslink8) told me to do which was, turn the car off put it on 2nd gear and turn it on, while i did that wit the clutch pedal all the way down to the floor car jerked back and forth
03-22-2010, 04:32 PM
#7
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The springs on the clutch disc could also have popped out. I've heard of that happening when you over spin the disc. I'm also coming from general clutch knowledge, I'm not the TL expert yet 
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i only say that becasue the car jerked forward while in gear....has the car made any "whine" or "whir" type noise while not moving with your foot off the clutch?
03-23-2010, 11:36 AM
#11
Registered Member
The friction disk has no torque dissipation springs aligned around the hub. It is a solid hub design.
03-23-2010, 11:39 AM
#12
Registered Member
You test descriptions indicate that the clutch assembly is not fully disengaging. This is very bad. Get your car into a qualified shop or dealer's service department asap.
One other question. Were there any symptoms you may have noticed, any strange or weird behavior, prior to the incident you described in your original post? If so, can you post them?
One other question. Were there any symptoms you may have noticed, any strange or weird behavior, prior to the incident you described in your original post? If so, can you post them?
03-23-2010, 12:49 PM
#13
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03-23-2010, 03:32 PM
#14
You test descriptions indicate that the clutch assembly is not fully disengaging. This is very bad. Get your car into a qualified shop or dealer's service department asap.
One other question. Were there any symptoms you may have noticed, any strange or weird behavior, prior to the incident you described in your original post? If so, can you post them?
One other question. Were there any symptoms you may have noticed, any strange or weird behavior, prior to the incident you described in your original post? If so, can you post them?
03-23-2010, 06:47 PM
#15
Registered Member
Your clutch was slipping badly. This very easily could have led to scoring of the flywheel and pressure plate, and damage to the friction disk material. Most likely, you have just given us the reason for your problem.
03-23-2010, 06:53 PM
#16
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03-23-2010, 09:05 PM
#18
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What do you mean you have "good flow" at the slave? Are you watching it actuate the fork?
The problem can be a few things but you know the clutch is slipping so you're going to have to rip into it...
03-24-2010, 07:14 AM
#19
Registered Member
But a slipping clutch should still allow him to physically shift into a gear. The only problem he should have would be when trying to engage the clutch and it slips. Unless parts are that damaged that everything is binding...but then he wouldn't be able to start it because it woudl stall out, no?
What do you mean you have "good flow" at the slave? Are you watching it actuate the fork?
The problem can be a few things but you know the clutch is slipping so you're going to have to rip into it...
What do you mean you have "good flow" at the slave? Are you watching it actuate the fork?
The problem can be a few things but you know the clutch is slipping so you're going to have to rip into it...
The problem he has described indicates that there is still contact between the friction disk and the pressure plate and flywheel which is enough to overcome the synchronizers' attempts to match shaft speeds (I didn't want to go this far in the explanation because I didn't wish to add any confusion).
Our manuals make use of a dual mass flywheel and a self-adjusting pressure plate. It's possible some damage could have been done to those components, but what he has written tends to make me believe the hydraulic system is probably the best place to start looking.
03-24-2010, 11:22 AM
#20
clutch pedal pressure is good comes up normally...
clutch fluid is to the top, checked the flow to the slave cylinder and is good...
clutch would slip on 4 5 6 gears while runnin and steppin on it tryin 2 increase MPH...
only issue is Clutch pedal vibrating and shifter lever not goin into any gear.
clutch fluid is to the top, checked the flow to the slave cylinder and is good...
clutch would slip on 4 5 6 gears while runnin and steppin on it tryin 2 increase MPH...
only issue is Clutch pedal vibrating and shifter lever not goin into any gear.
04-05-2010, 10:00 AM
#24
i've been having similar issues with my 07 type-s 6MT. it started with 3rd gear not engaging and the dealer changed the synchros. couple weeks later noticed i pressed the gas and my rpm was shooting up but no acceleration. and now i have almost no acceleration at all in any gear. takin it in today. keep us posted. thanks
04-06-2010, 05:10 PM
#26
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If you feel vibrations in the pedal, and the force hasn't changed to push the pedal down, I would have skipped right over the hydraulic system 
My guess is something with the throw out bearing, pivot arm, or clutch itself.
My guess is something with the throw out bearing, pivot arm, or clutch itself.
04-08-2010, 06:38 AM
#28
Registered Member
This is what I feared from your descriptions. A few questions, please. Are you the original owner? How many miles do you have on the car? What year is it?
04-08-2010, 10:01 AM
#31
Registered Member
In all of this, there is a bright side. At least you will get a new clutch assembly and then it is YOU who will know the history of its treatment. It's just a shame you have to put up with this at such a low mileage.
04-08-2010, 06:39 PM
#32
Of course, you never know how the previous owner's treated the car and therein lies a problem. You just don't know whether or not they beat on it or ragged it a lot.
In all of this, there is a bright side. At least you will get a new clutch assembly and then it is YOU who will know the history of its treatment. It's just a shame you have to put up with this at such a low mileage.
In all of this, there is a bright side. At least you will get a new clutch assembly and then it is YOU who will know the history of its treatment. It's just a shame you have to put up with this at such a low mileage.
yea man, but i was never expecting this... My car is barely driven, its basically a weekend car and out of the blue BANG! Everythin getting ordered
2nite ill keep u guys posted
04-09-2010, 06:54 AM
#35
Registered Member
Gentlemen, take a good look at these pictures. This is what happens to a clutch assembly when someone doesn't have a clue how to operate a manual transmission correctly or abuses the hell out of it. At only 65,000 miles, a well designed clutch assembly should have little wear and look close to pristine, unless something out of the the operator's control occurs. This clutch has obviously had a very bad life. There is evidence of scoring here among other things. And the shredding of friction material is crazy at just 65K miles.
So double clutch your downshifts, never hold your car on a hill with the clutch, never play the clutch while on an incline (rock the car back and forth), don't ride your clutch any more than absolutely necessary when starting off, never rest your foot on the clutch when it is engaged (the release bearing marks on the pressure plate fingers), and never hold the clutch in while waiting at a light.
These are all common sense things and everyone who drives a car with a manual transmission should and must know them.
Thanks so much for posting these pictures for others to see.
So double clutch your downshifts, never hold your car on a hill with the clutch, never play the clutch while on an incline (rock the car back and forth), don't ride your clutch any more than absolutely necessary when starting off, never rest your foot on the clutch when it is engaged (the release bearing marks on the pressure plate fingers), and never hold the clutch in while waiting at a light.
These are all common sense things and everyone who drives a car with a manual transmission should and must know them.
Thanks so much for posting these pictures for others to see.
04-09-2010, 10:09 AM
#37
Gentlemen, take a good look at these pictures. This is what happens to a clutch assembly when someone doesn't have a clue how to operate a manual transmission correctly or abuses the hell out of it. At only 65,000 miles, a well designed clutch assembly should have little wear and look close to pristine, unless something out of the the operator's control occurs. This clutch has obviously had a very bad life. There is evidence of scoring here among other things. And the shredding of friction material is crazy at just 65K miles.
So double clutch your downshifts, never hold your car on a hill with the clutch, never play the clutch while on an incline (rock the car back and forth), don't ride your clutch any more than absolutely necessary when starting off, never rest your foot on the clutch when it is engaged (the release bearing marks on the pressure plate fingers), and never hold the clutch in while waiting at a light.
These are all common sense things and everyone who drives a car with a manual transmission should and must know them.
Thanks so much for posting these pictures for others to see.
So double clutch your downshifts, never hold your car on a hill with the clutch, never play the clutch while on an incline (rock the car back and forth), don't ride your clutch any more than absolutely necessary when starting off, never rest your foot on the clutch when it is engaged (the release bearing marks on the pressure plate fingers), and never hold the clutch in while waiting at a light.
These are all common sense things and everyone who drives a car with a manual transmission should and must know them.
Thanks so much for posting these pictures for others to see.
everything u stated i DONT do cuz i kno the issues of it afterwards... But hey who u said b4 now i kno i will have a BRAND new clutch assembly which is goin to be used by me and only me so dat makes me happy
correct... dont do it, it even says it on the manuals book
04-09-2010, 10:43 AM
#38
Registered Member
No. Never rest your foot on your clutch when it is engaged - as in completely released, you are driving along, and you rest your foot on the clutch pedal. This is very bad.... never do it. That's what the floor and the dead pedal are for.
04-09-2010, 10:44 AM
#39
Registered Member
i for sure know its not from my behalf... flywheel is done, if i put it back it might cause vibrations
No problem. bro... ive been drivin stick since i was a teen, and ive never ever been thru this everything u stated i DONT do cuz i kno the issues of it afterwards... But hey who u said b4 now i kno i will have a BRAND new clutch assembly which is goin to be used by me and only me so dat makes me happy
correct... dont do it, it even says it on the manuals book
No problem. bro... ive been drivin stick since i was a teen, and ive never ever been thru this
everything u stated i DONT do cuz i kno the issues of it afterwards... But hey who u said b4 now i kno i will have a BRAND new clutch assembly which is goin to be used by me and only me so dat makes me happycorrect... dont do it, it even says it on the manuals book
04-09-2010, 12:23 PM
#40
You should sell your flywheel on the Black Market. There has to be some guys that would be interested in getting it for the ring gear. In case they want to get a lightwieght flywheel from Clutchmaster. BTW the clutchmaster flywheel's ring gear has to be replaced with the oem ring gear for it to work. That's just a little explanation as to why you might want to sell your old flywheel. Or just get the ring gear pressed off at a machine shop and sell the gear by itself. Shipping would be cheaper.