I drive it daily 124k, father don't beat on it by any means, changes gears flawlessly pedal has pressure, takes off with ease, but it started doing this yesterday out of nowhere just trying to pass a car in 5th gear barely going 45 to 55 to get by. No bad smells etc.

 

there we go

 

If you're in 5th gear and try and accelerate and the tach rises but your speed does not, then yes, you need a clutch. I bought my 2006 TL 6MT with 114,000 miles on it; the original owner was apparently an older individual who didn't beat on it either, and yet the clutch was already starting to slip if I shifted from say, 3rd to 4th at high power levels. Fortunately I rarely need to use that kind of power and I was able to baby the clutch for almost 20,000 miles before I finally replaced it.

 

video is in the comments, but just from this I was figuring, hurts my soul, I can find clutch kits for around 200-300 labor I know will be more anybody got me on a good link to a solid clutch cheap, heard good things about "luk"

 

Luk is the OEM manufacture for our clutches.

the fact is; these cars are so hard to learn or master the clutch. you dont have to beat on it to destroy the clutch
1st gear is probably where people burn up the clutch the most...

 

yeah, it's not your average system, also I'm guessing it's the original clutch from new off the lot. One owner before me all CARFAX and nothing about a new clutch. 🤷‍♂️ Wel boys fuck me running

 

Is this what I'm looking for?

 

i mean; the clutch is a wear and tear item.
I bought my TL at 30k miles and by 35k it was slipping pretty bad.
had a mechanic change it and I was good to go..

 

Not a fan of PartsGeek...

I bought mine from RockAuto:

• Clutch Kit: LuK #L08047 -- $185.99
• Dual Mass Flywheel: LuK DMF062 -- $216.99

Item of note, there are some stories on this forum from folks who did the clutch and opted to not replace the flywheel; I believe in every case they needed to redo the job and do the flywheel. Not a happy or inexpensive result.

From the "While you're in there" department (I did all of them and am glad I did; saves LOTS of money down the road):

• All three motor mounts
• All three transmission mounts
• Both axles
• Rear main seal
• Stabilizer bar bushings and end links

 

This is really solid advice. Absolutely replace the flywheel, DMFs wear internally in addition to the friction surface. At absolute bare minimum I would do the rear main seal and axle seals, but the more on that list you can swing the better off you will be long term.

I had the same thing happen to me last year OP. Was attempting to go wot in 4th or 5th on the highway and was met with some major slippage. I hobbled the car around for another few months until I could get all the parts together for the job.

 

There I added some extra item horsey might missed.

 

Replacing the flywheel when you do the clutch is MANDATORY. Take that from 1st hand experience!
LUK tech support recommends this due to the way this dual-mass flywheel wears since this flywheel can't be resurfaced.
.
.

 

[QUOTE=horseshoez;16642832]Not a fan of PartsGeek...

I bought mine from RockAuto:

• Clutch Kit: LuK #L08047 -- $185.99
• Dual Mass Flywheel: LuK DMF062 -- $216.99

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...440495&jsn=790

This is for a 2008 correct? I'm seeing a DMF105 for a 2008 type s 6mt, is the DMF062 for 04-06?

 

[QUOTE=jeffstlnote;16649886]The 3.2 and 3.5 engines take different flywheels, but the same clutch kit.

Pass on PartsGeek, go Rockauto!
.

 

As many have said, LUK seems to be the best option for clutch replacements on our cars.

 

Wanting to do this!

Clutch
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...440495&jsn=260

Flywheel
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...440495&jsn=262

Bearing
https://www.oemacuraparts.com/oem-pa...se-22810ppt003

I've read not using the Luk bearing and going with OEM is the best call. Anything I'm missing?

 

LUK is OEM.

 

I've been running the LUK bearing, supplied with the very same clutch RepKit you list above, since 2015 on my CL-S6 with no problems.

 

Agreed, I have the LuK bearing on my TL; it went in 40,000 miles ago and is still good to go.

 

Certainly eases the mind, and would save roughly $60, I think this was the video that had me thinking about the bearing...

 

Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy recommends going with the OEM bearing when replacing the clutch.
And don't forget to replace the Flywheel too!
.

 

What he and you fail to do is to state definitively why?

 

Paul claims fewer problems.

 

That video says light weight fly wheel in the title. The light weight flywheel is an aftermarket parts. And not OEM.

If you're using all OEM parts, disregard the video.

 

I posted that video because it was the first of 2 maybe 3 videos where the person making it stated they were not going to use the LuK bearing. Nothing to do with the flywheel. When I do this replacement I will 100% be using the Luk DMF105 for my Type S. But now I have guys saying the bearing that comes from Luk in the kit is OEM. I just want to use OEM all around, t's $56 roughly from Acura, but if the Luk is honestly the SAME then I'd use it.

 

Right because luk is OEM.

The video you posted used an aftermarket flywheel, which you aren't using. So disregard the video