Alright guys, instead of making multiple threads for 1 problem each...I'll make it easy for everyone. Thanks for all the help in advance


Problem 1
When going over larger bumps, potholes, etc I get a loud clunk which has only reared its ugly head about 2 weeks ago. I'm not sure where it came from but I haven't hit any huge potholes or anything I don't think in that time to cause a problem. I've read up and a few people seem to have the same problem in regards to engine mounts, but is there a way to check if mine are bad or in need of replacement?? Anything else I can check??

I will try to get a video of this today or sometime soon to make it more clear


Problem 2
This isn't happening anymore, but it started to get cold here (sub 40degrees) and this started happening. I would slightly decrease in noise as the car got warm, but was still present. Like I said, now that it's a bit nicer out..it isn't happening, but I still would like to know wtf this might be!

Video


Problem 3
Same type thing as problem 2 as it only happened when it was cold. Not happening now, but it was there and I want to find out before it's to late if it was say....my transmission! I'm still under warranty from the rebuild.

It was making a semi-loud clicking and seemed to be located near the left-side of the block, near the pulleys. Please excuse my dirty lol. Clean now!

Video

You Tube

Problem 4
Headlights look off to you? I don't think they're supposed to swing up like that on the passenger side. Does my crossover area or whatever it's called in the middle look okay though? If these pics are bad I'll try to get some better one's soon.






Problem 5
I'm having a problem with some sort of whistling/whining noise at higher speeds. It could be at lower speeds, but the engine is a bit louder there so I'm not sure it's as pronounced. It pretty easily noticeable (at least when you know what you're listening for and listening for it!) on the highway. When I'm on the gas I can hear a faint whistling/whine and it IMMEDIATELY goes away when I let off the gas. It will come back instantly when I press the gas again.

My main concern is if this is something that might be a transmission problem as I'm still under warranty from my rebuild. I've contacted Five Star Transmissions to ask them if they even replaced the 3/4th Pressure Switches and he said NO they hadn't. I then said I'm pretty sure that's my issue still as I'm getting hard shifts into 3rd and 4th....another problem!....and a hard downshift here and there. He said they wouldn't cover to fix that even though they didn't fix the god damn transmission in the first place!! I don't know if I should take it to a shop and have them look it over and then send them the bill or something. I know they will try their hardest to not pay a dime, but I don't want to get a month outside of my warranty and have my transmission crap out on me! It feels just as shitty as it did before I had it fully rebuilt.




Again...thank you for all the help and support! As a student, I don't have the time or skill to self diagnose some of these problems and would like more opinions, etc on the matters. Thanks guys!

 

No one??

 

1-Best guess, stabilizer end links, or even a loose shock mounting nut.
2-PS “O” Ring
3-Serpentine belt tensioner pulley, or Alt bearings. Remove the belt and take a look, or at least start the car for a moment with the belt off. No noise?
4-???
5-Without hearing the noise, it could be the trans, or the noise from the belt area.

Daughter just arrived, time to go out for dinner.

 

1. suspension...end link or bad shock.
2. def PS...o-ring? bad pump?
3. damn that is crazy loud. sorry...can't help here...but i would take it in and have the tranny guys look things over....worst case scenario...dealer.
4. looks ok to me...though i've really never compared my lights.
5. probably related to #3. i'd get everything looked over. why is your engine so damn loud?

 

Thanks! Seems like you all agree on a few things, which helps to possibly narrow it down.

1. Is there a way I can check the "end links"? Not sure where those are or what I should be looking for. I can check the shocks mounting nut though as I assume its...connected to the shock! lol.

2. What is the PS....damn.....right as I typed this I realized PS means Power Steering. Ugh...long day's lately. Hope that's not an expensive fix, though if it doesn't happen when it's hot, is there a reason to fix immediately?

I'll check PS fluid levels asap too

3. I will have this check out. Looks like I might be going in for the 3/4th gear pressure switches soon so maybe they can look the end links/shocks and belts over.

4. Yeah....I dunno either. I'll head to the photo forums as most of those guys play around there.

5. Hopefully! Likely more annoying now since its dead quiet b/c I have no music... waiting on all my stuff to arrive

 

End links are from the lower control arm and attached to the stabilizer bar. They are difficult to check as just bouncing the car won't, at times, make the sound.
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=2004+...t:429,r:13,s:0

PS Whine:
http://autodiyonline.com/acura-diys/...hine-fine-diy/

Remove the serpentine belt and start the car for a few seconds to check the noise. If no unusual sound, then spin each pulley to check for roughness/play. If a new belt is needed, perfect time for replacement.

 

For problem #2, your steering must be hard. It's a bad pump. I had the same issue. I would only feel resistance in the steering during low speeds such as reversing or parking. It was resolved after I paid Acura a big chunk of money to get a new one replaced. Wish I had the guts and tools to do it myself.

Here's a DIY for a power steering pump overhaul
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/diy-105-power-steering-pump-overhaul-pics-sm-scans-841134/

Oh and here's for the power steering whine fix.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/diy-105-power-steering-whine-fix-754586/

 

4- The cut off is not going to even. I forget why, but I think it has to do with the projector lenses. The tsx lenses are not the same as the TL's if you're comparing the light cutoff.

The drivers side headlight will be aligned lower then the passenger side so that on coming traffic is not blinded. Most inspectors and shops will align it like this for obvious safety reasons. If you don't like it then go to a parking garage with a flat wall, park the car about 20 feet away and lower the passenger side.

 

Thank you all!!!

As far as the HID's...I just wanted to check the crossover area and see if that looked normal. My main concern was that the right side angled up towards the out edge. It looks flat from the drivers seat and in the middle of the beam/car, but once you moves out away from the car it starts going up.

 

The right side is supposed to shoot a little farther and toward the right edge. The left has to be down a little more for oncoming traffic. The HIDs rely on the cutoff point to not blind other drivers since there's no "bright" lights, only full intensity all the time.

 

I wanted to bump this thread as I'd like to figure out what #1 is really badly now. It's getting worse and is HORRIBLE sounding when going downhill, specifically when going down the circle/spiral in my parking garage at work. The fast I go, the louder it gets and the harder I can feel it. I'll get a video if it will help on Monday. Anyways, I wanted to see if there's a way I can check some of these recommendations. Can I just look at some of these and know if they're bad? Is there something I can do or should try to see if it's X or Y...or prove that it's not something?? I don't know



I can take pictures if there's anything that will help also! I just want to try and tackle this before I pay a shop for hours of "diagnosis" on the problem. I'm reading up right now on all this, what it looks like, etc so I can check myself. Thank you all

 

Amazing what you can learn when you search. I'll check them tomorrow to see if there's anything iffy. I hear they don't have "bushings" so I might just buy a new one, have it replaced (unless it's easy to do and there's a DIY or something) and see if it works. They seem super cheap and I'm sure OEM is fine for me (no susp. mods)

 

i think you forgot to add problem 6: cracked nasty looking dashboard

 

you need to crawl under the car and physically check the bolt with a ratchet to see if it's loose. you can yank on it all you want. it doesn't take much for an end link to make rattlling noises. maybe a 1/4 turn loose....

 

Alright I checked the passenger end link and everything was tight as can be. Everything seemed to look okay, but I'm not really sure what I should be looking for. No cracks, etc...big stuff. I'm on the hunt now for where the motor mounts are located, how much they cost and how hard they might be to install

 

passenger side mount which is easy to spot as it's right under the power steering pump area. If the dust cover on it is cracked chances are it will need replacement. Mine was shot. On a scale of 1-10, 10 being the easiest to replace, it's a 12. You dont really need to do anything but 3 bolts.

Front mount is a little to the right of the precat(?) in the front of the engine, under the radiator fan. Unfortunately no easy way to tell unless you see oil leaking out of it or if you remove it. I did it the "harder" way which removes the rad fans. a few hours on this one. I have pictures of the mount in my front mount DIY. Just look up my previously posted threads.

rear mount I suppose you can get underneath and it's behind the engine. Looks similar to the front. I've heard this is the hardest and will take the longest.

your passenger mount could be shot and bottoming out on the metal casing, causing that loud noise. Whenever you go over speed bumps this will be evident if it's coming from your passenger side.

 

Now that I really try to localize the sound, it sounds like the hard bump sound is coming from the middle of the car. mid dash area, but underneath the car obviously.

So we have 4-5 engine mounts? Does anyone know the part #'s for these for replacement? I'll probably order some today or soon. Not sure I have the stuff to go after it myself. Hopefully a shop won't kill me on labor. Any idea's on rough labor time for this also?

Thanks a ton guys!

 

Only have three engine mounts. Front, rear, side.


#012 50830-SEP-A02 RUBBER ASSY., FR. ENGINE MOUNTING (AT)
#008 50810-SDB-A21 RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING 001 2006
#011 50820-SEP-A01 RUBBER ASSY., ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING (AT)

I have had worn engine mounts (and even innovative engine mounts that donuted). They never caused a "clunking" sound. It was more of a vibrations when car was in Drive and stationary (when you are at a stoplight waiting for green).

Typically it is the side mount that goes first, and that is an easy change. The rear and front, require to lift the engine from the oil pan slightly to be able to compensate for the height difference...

 

completely broken mounts that are detached from their base can cause clunk noises, especially when going over speed bumps.

My friend's civic hybrid did it, and it was pretty unsettling really.

 

Contact Tim at Oemacuraparts.com (vendor), all three mounts came to ~$267.

 

It's VERY unsettling lol. It's the worse and constant when going downhill in my parking garage. It sounds like a constant thump, thump, thump, thump. So it does it when going downhill and sounds awful, plus when going over bumps it sounds like it's bottoming out almost. The last few days it's started to get bad on start up too. The engine area will shake when starting the car and then go away after a second, but once I put it into reverse it starts vibrating pretty badly. Could my tranny mounts be bad also??

Slpr04UA6- Thanks! I'll contact him. I don't think I have the time to be doing this so I guess I'll call around and hopefully a shop won't kill me on labor. Any idea on "hours" for this job? I don't want them to come along and say 5 hours if it takes 2 or something.

 

My mechanic, with me helping did it in ~3hrs, with some breaks here and there. I wanted to learn how to do it, and he let me help/learn. You do have to have some long socket extensions, as well as various other tools, you also have to move a few parts out of the way, as well as jack the engine up to remove/replace mounts.

 

sorry didnt read all the replies:

1> if the sound is coming from the rear its the rear endlinks....you can get new ones (MOOG) from rockauto for like 17 bucks a pop....you will prolly need 2...
if the sound is coming from the coilovers (the wheel that hits the pothole) you are bottoming out the coils....install the skunk2 front camber kit and this issue will be solved....here is the DIY:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7#post13840547

2> and 3> seem to be the same problem to me....replace the o-ring and you should be good if problem 3 continues, i would guess its the tensioner

4> yes the cutoff seems fine...the driver side should be a little higher and here is how you adjust your headlights:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/re-aiming-headlights-3g-garage-g-007-a-558380/

5> need a sound clip buddy...

 

Here is the dreaded sound! Might need to turn it up a little, but you can definitely hear it. It's easily audible in the car, but the Iphone4 didn't pick it up that great. I'll try to get another one tomorrow or soon if needed. This should help though

 

I couldn't make out what was normal noise and what the clunk was...the front and rear mounts though, I believe they have some sort of oil or something, if you get in there and look, it should be obvious if it's toast. The side, even easier...mine was SHOT after 8 years and 70K miles.

A clunking...I'm not sure...do you have an aftermarket suspension installed?

What's left from your original list to troubleshoot?!? I had a horrible squealing noise...turned out to be the tensioner pulley/idler pulley...I changed the whole assembly in fell swoop. Not too hard either.

J.

 

i think i hear it?

Try going over a speed bump if possible. It's really noticeable because the thud/clunk is offset from actually going over the bump. It's like the engine is bouncing around.

 

Haha ok I'll try it again. The only noise in that video is a static like noise and clunking. Turn it up a bit and you can hear it pretty easily...at least on mine. I'll try to get it from the outside tomorrow and see if it's better. The sound is like it you are tapping your thump on a table or something lol. Wow! sounds are hard to put into words sometimes!

No aftermarket suspension. I've got 120k miles too...so they might be done for

 

Here's a better vid. This is just normal driving over a somewhat rough road. Hopefully it's loud enough.

No way to roll down the windows and get it here in Oklahoma! Wind is like constantly at 30+mph lol

 

Had some free time today so I took it to Acura. They said the front and side mounts are shot. Rear looked fine, but who knows if it's about to go also. Not sure if this is what's making my noise though. That's the only thing holding me back

 

Just wanted to update on this situation in case anyone searches and finds they have this problem. Yesterday I had the timing belt service done along with the FRONT and SIDE engine mounts replaced. Proud to say that I have no clunking over bumps, putting the car in reverse doesn't result in weird noises or movement of the car/engine, etc. The mechanic said "to say the front mount was destroyed is an understatement....it was in pieces"

Basically just had metal on metal with no rubber. No wonder it'd happen basically all the time. Very annoying. Sucks I have to spend more money to get this done than just the actual parts as I wouldn't really be able to do this myself in a feasible time frame, let alone with the heat we've been having here lately. 106 yesterday and seems to be no end in sight....another nationwide record like last summer coming I'm sure.

Anyways, just wanted to update that if you're having the symptoms in this thread then it's likely your engine mounts. Which ones I can't say, but if you can get under there and have a look, do it! If not, take it somewhere and pay the small fee to check before you order them or pay to have them replaced and that doesn't fix it. My mechanic is very trustworthy and told me that this was likely the culprit. Also was going to get new pads and rotors resurfaced, but he said I still have around 40% left, which is very odd because I was Hibdons Tires about a year ago and they told me the brakes had about 20% left or maybe less. Trusty mechanic FTW

 

Great update bro....thanks for coming back and mentioning what the problem really was....

and for no more clunks

 

Now I just need to tackle a few pesky interior rattles and it'll be perfect again! Hopefully she's good to go till 200,000 miles! No car payment FTW

 

+1 at no car payments

how many miles are you sitting at now ?

 

124,xxx

...yeah....little late on that TB service lol

 

I am very happy for you TM!!! Awesome.
I'm at 84K and I believe I'm paying off this month too...I'm with you, NO PAYMENTS! First step toward wealth, supposedly!

 

TM, i did my TB and WP service at 133K

but yeah i dont recommend that, maybe i got lucky

 

Shoot, you guys are making me wanna wait too!
I keep getting told that because it's almost 9 years old...I should already think about it, but I dont' wanna!

 

^^^ do it according to your MID....i think the timing belt service code is "4"....

if that shows up, go in

 

Really?! Is that mileage based?!!?

 

mileage + year + ECU's mood i guess