So a couple days ago, I walk to my car from the gym and press my unlock button on my key remote, and nothing happens. I try to open the trunk with the remote, nothing happens. So I open up my door manually with the key and tried unlocking the doors by pushing the unlock button, again nothing happens.
So my lock/unlock capabilities have been shut down, I have to go to each lock and manually unlock/lock them.

Along side with that I've noticed the same day that my turn signals do not work, neither does the high beam, the low beam is the only thing that turns on. Some of the lower speeds for the windshield wiper do not work as well.

When I turn on the A/C the fan just pumps out air, nothing cold.

Everything was working fine a couple days ago, now everything is going wrong.

I've checked my door lock fuse and replaced it, it didnt help.

 

check all of the fuses including the underhood ones

 

I checked all the fuses, they're all fine.
I was hoping/thinking it was just a fuse problem, but I cant seem to find a bad fuse

 

Ive got a c.e.l. and it reads P0155
and to my understandings that is;
P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Is that relevant to my loss of power in those certain areas? or is this another problem that has nothing to do with it.

 

false code from low battery voltage would be my first guess
Get the battery and charging system ckd for free at parts stores everywhere
If your batt is 3 years or older it is subject to failure any day

 

Ill check up on that. So that only pertains to the cel code coming up right?

I went over to a mechanic today and had him check out my car and try to see what's wrong with my electronical problem. He checked all the fuses and connection points with his tool. He came to the conclusion that everything has power going to it, but there is a faulty in the ground, its not relaying back.

Does this sound like a legitimate claim?

 

check ur ground points...remove them, clean them, grease them and retighten them....the car is very sensitive to ground connections...the littlest resistance (bad connection) can throw off a bunch of codes, and much more.... check the main ground off the batt, the grounds on the tranny, and everywhere else in the engine bay.

when i read the first few lines of your post, i right away thought of the immobilizer system fuse being burnt...since it didnt unlock the doors...but then u listed a whole bunch of other things not working...and mentioned that all fuses are good.

i had a case where that happened to me...and there's no fuse for the immobilizer system..i found it shares its circuit with another component (i cant remember what it was) but after looking at the wiring diagram, its how i found out.....i couldn't unlock the car, or lock it..when i tried to start it, alarm would activate...hvac didnt work, (didnt try wipers)...

now if u checked all fuses, then i can say that its not the same thing that happened to me...but if u checked only fuses for components that didnt work, then i can tell you that its a big possibility that you're experiencing the same thing...

just throwing a few guesses out there bud...ull have to still check for urself

 

I had similar bizzare issues and it turned out to be the dealer hadn't fully tightened the neutral battery cable before that though I had random issues of radio resetting - lost presets- needing code for nav - the final one was not starting at which point i took it in and they told me about the cable.

 

Hello cellph titled, did you find any solution for this issue? I'm having the exact same issues. Unlock from Key Remote not working, AC not working(fan works), Lock-Unlock on drivers side door not working(on passenger side its working), Seat Memory not working, turn signals not working, Power Window works, sunroof works, radio works, headlamps work and brake lights work. This is strange. I also noticed that since i needed to open my car with the key while i'm driving the red Security blinking light on beside the lock is flashing as if the security system is active even though the car seems to run fine. Please let me know if you found the solution for this. I will verify all the fuses when i get back home today. I will also check (i'm hoping this is the problem) the negative terminal on the battery. I also noticed a while ago that the stereo had a strange sound (feedback) when is was cold and just turned on. It goes after driving a while. This is why i think it could be my negative terminal on the battery.

 

I also had a similiar problem with mine as well,more then likely its the battery! I've had to change mine every 2 yrs its seems?? I do live in Hot azz Fla so maybe thats why?? So if I was you I'd start from there??

 

if you have an acura battery, that's the problem. I've been running my battery for quite a while now (non acura battery) and it's been rock solid!

 

But the strange thing is that my car starts great. You notice when this cars have low battery because they start strange. I think maybe its ground problems but i cant seem to find a ground diagram for the car. Everyone says start by inspecting all grounds on the car but i have no idea where they are. If anyone here can guide me onto this i would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

My '04 just started this too. Working great, park and turn it off for 5 minutes, and come back to:

No outside temp display
No power door locks
No remote trunk operation
No running lights
No turn signals
No momentary wipers
No headlight indicator on dash
No memory functions
No A/C compressor
Alarm system acting up

My battery is an aftermarket about 2 years old. Checked all fuses and they are good.

Any ideas?

 

what in the world is a neutral battery cable? do you mean negative?

 

A few more things:

-power locks work when controlled with pass. door switch with car off
-inside trunk switch works
-no HFL indication
-wipers work on high only

 

Update!!

After checking every fuse in car with a meter, I gave up.

Last night I disconnected the neg term and put a smart charger on the battery. The car sat unpowered for about 12 hours.

I take the charger off this morning, hook up the neg term, and wala, everything works again!!!

I will post updates to see how long it lasts.

 

Another update:

My car has done the same thing repeatedly. As of now, the fix is to pull the battery cable for an extended time, I have been doing it over night.

Everything will reset, then it is a matter of time before whatever relay/module that is causing the problem to hang up again. I am thinking it is the HFL module, so I may try disconnecting that.

 

These exact problems happened to me as well besides the car not unlocking but everything else including my fog lights wouldn't work. And the directional lights wouldn't work out side or inside on the dash. Plus I had the abs light on, VSA, brake, and seat belt light wouldn't work only my head lights. The Acura dealer fixed the problem twice after a month samething started happening. The last time I took it which was about 4 months ago for the same problem. They said my under dash fuse box had water in it because there was corrosion all over inside. They replaced the fuse box and put sol one around it to "stop the water" they said they couldn't find the leak and when I asked to see the fuse box they refused. But till this day I've had no problems. It's been about for months and it's still good. If I were you remove the under dash fuse box or your mechanic can do it for you and check for corrosion. The sunroof water drain line does run thru the fuse box so you never know. Then again that's what the Acura dealer told me. I don't really trust them.

 

Thanks for the info, I will give it a look and see if I have the leak.

Thanks

 

Well mine is doing it again, 2 years and and 3 months on the Wal-Mart battery. That fixed it last time, guess will try again?

 

Also make sure there is no corrosion on the battery terminals. I had to replace my battery a few months ago and the positive battery cables I had to cut back about 5 inches because corrosion was growing inside the wire insulation. Corrosion adds unwanted resistance in the circuit and even though the cable looks ok on the outside doesn't mean that it can make a complete circuit.

 

Hey im wondering if you found the problem. I'm going through the same thing now.

 

Yes, mine was the fuse box all corroded.

It has been a long time, but I think I had to take it out of the car, separate it and clean all the terminals. From what I remember,it is a pain fighting the wire bundles to get it out. I used to have pics, but can't find them anymore.

Mine has not done it since, 5 years now.

 

 

The fuse block in the car by drivers left foot.

 

This same issue described in this thread started happening to my 2010 MDX today:
No outside temp display
No power door locks
No remote trunk operation
No running lights
No turn signals
No momentary wipers
No headlight indicator on dash
No memory functions
No lights around the console area (the radio station preset buttons have no light)
No A/C compressor (not sure about this one - it's cold outside so I haven't checked the AC. The fan works.)
Alarm system acting up (the MDX honks when i start it)

I've checked a lot of fuses. Maybe 80% of them, and all were good. Then I searched the internet and found this thread, so I'm considering disconnecting the negative terminal and attaching a charger. I'm not optimistic about it but we'll see. The MDX starts fine, but it was -22 earlier this week and maybe that temp was hard on the battery. However, the battery is only about 14 months old.

Any advice is welcome.

 

Having the exact same issues on my 2008 Acura TL.
- FOB does not open doors
- Interior light stays on even after I shut doors
- no turn signlas
- no high beam
- no fog lights
- no dash temperature display, it's just "- - -"

Those are the main issues. haven't checked to see if the A/C compressor turns on or not since it's 50 degrees outside.
I cannot imagine this being a fuse box corrosion issue, that would blow at least 1 fuse and I have checked EVERY fuse on the car, inside and under hood.

I'll update this with what I find, the batter issue seems possible but like someone else said, car starts fine, usually a bad battery ground or battery will feel really weak turning over the starter or won't turn the starter at all.

 

The positive battery cable has two leads- one that goes to the starter, the other to the fuse box. It could be that there's poor corrosion on the cable that goes to the fuse box, causing these issues, but not to the starter so the car starts fine.

 

Update: 100% chance this issue is related to rain water getting into the driver kick panel fuse block area.

Had this happen yesterday in a 2" rain downpour. Today I pulled the kick panel off and sure enough it's damp between the dead pedal and the sheet metal and directly above this is the fuse block.

After I dry the fuse block and connections out and things start working, I'm going to see if I can wrap some plastic above it with a terry towel on top to try to catch this small leak. The windshield was replaced by a previous owner so there's a chance it's not sealed right. I guess the sunroof drains probably run down the A-pillar as well.

 

Were you able to get everything figured out n corrected? I'm having some of the same things as what you've described as well.

 

Yes, after I dried the fuse box out for a few hours with a small heater and fan everything starting working fine. I pulled up the driver side windshield molding and caulked it well with black rtv. Then I shoved a Terry towel up above the fuse box as extra protection. Hasn't happened again.

 

Damn, I'm having some issues that sound like the ones you describe. Key fob stopped working along with my daytime, corner/marker lights, and tail lights. HID's went out a long time ago.. And the radio even before that.

 

Its the cables that attach to the battery. Common problem. Change positive cords both from fuse box and the one that runs under. Just changed the terminal on my tl and seen all the wire under the insulation is corroded. Got the car to power up and start but rear inside lights keep flickering. Going to change all the cables including the negative grounds tm. All in all should cost 25 bucks and 30 min of my time. Seriously try it out i know my final issue will be solved since the terminal fixed most of it cables will do the rest.

 

Any update on this Hector? Did you change the connectors on the cables, or the entire cables?

 

I have a 03 tl base model and so the head lights will come on but when I turn them off only one will come back on and if you take the key out lock the doors unlock the door and turn the lights back on both of them will be on?

 

HI there. Did you ever figure out you're Acura. I'm having same issues