Metal Shavings in Oil Pan
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Metal Shavings in Oil Pan
So I was changing the oil and i noticed there was some metal shavings in the oil pan when I was done. This really sucks. What could it be from? What can I do to stop it getting worse? Any help? Thanks
#2
send a sample to www.blackstone-labs.com
for 25 dollars they can analyze the metals and determine what parts of the engine they came from
A tiny bit is normal but if you can plainly see damaged metal- it could be rod bearings or ring failure- the analysis will tell for sure
What color was the oil- how many miles on it- hows the radiator look inside- open only when engine cold
is it using the res bottle of coolant- thats empty?
for 25 dollars they can analyze the metals and determine what parts of the engine they came from
A tiny bit is normal but if you can plainly see damaged metal- it could be rod bearings or ring failure- the analysis will tell for sure
What color was the oil- how many miles on it- hows the radiator look inside- open only when engine cold
is it using the res bottle of coolant- thats empty?
#3
Senior Moderator
how many miles on the car and is this the first, second, third oil change?
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok the car is an 04 it has 66,000 miles on it. I have always taken care of my cars. I use mobile one products and change the oil when it gets to 20%. I have done two transmission flush's and one radiator flush. The oil comes out dark as, well what I would consider normal. I used to drive the car hard but that quickly got old and now I barely hit high rpm's. My guess is there was about 1/2 tsp of shavings. Looking in the Radiator what am I supposed to look for? Thanks for your help.
#5
clean looking fluid in the radiator- nice and green-all the way to the top and not foamy or brown
in the oil- dark is ok- it means the oil is doing its job by pickup up contaminents and combustion byproducts to transport to the filter
If you still have the filter, cut it open for good info- it should have caught the shavings
I am guessing you have a magnetic drain plug in the engine oi???l-
Its still going to be best to get a sample tested- if you didnt get a oil sample at the change- get one now--if there is bad news, its in the oil system all the time
you only need 4 ounces of oil!
They can tell which part is shedding metal based on type of metal and other stuff their mass spectrometer can tell- then a human interprets the results
check their website given above
in the oil- dark is ok- it means the oil is doing its job by pickup up contaminents and combustion byproducts to transport to the filter
If you still have the filter, cut it open for good info- it should have caught the shavings
I am guessing you have a magnetic drain plug in the engine oi???l-
Its still going to be best to get a sample tested- if you didnt get a oil sample at the change- get one now--if there is bad news, its in the oil system all the time
you only need 4 ounces of oil!
They can tell which part is shedding metal based on type of metal and other stuff their mass spectrometer can tell- then a human interprets the results
check their website given above
#6
be careful with the term FLUSH and transmission-
if you hooked up to a machine----- YIKES warning danger!
those are TL trans killers as they often do not use Honda ZR1 fluid- the only thing our trans are proven to like
Dextron 3 will kill the trans and its the standard fluid used in most other cars
If you drain 3 qts and refill thats ok method- doing that 3 times so all the fluid is actually changed out- thats better IMO
How did you flush the rad? The engine block drain bolt is supposed to be removed and the radiator drain plug- all the fluid drained and plugs put back in
Then a very tedious and very specific burping procedure is required to ensure trouble free operation.
if you hooked up to a machine----- YIKES warning danger!
those are TL trans killers as they often do not use Honda ZR1 fluid- the only thing our trans are proven to like
Dextron 3 will kill the trans and its the standard fluid used in most other cars
If you drain 3 qts and refill thats ok method- doing that 3 times so all the fluid is actually changed out- thats better IMO
How did you flush the rad? The engine block drain bolt is supposed to be removed and the radiator drain plug- all the fluid drained and plugs put back in
Then a very tedious and very specific burping procedure is required to ensure trouble free operation.
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#8
use their website- and they send a free sample container and instructions
If you saved the old oil in a spotless clean container- then you can just grab some of it.
If not, take a warm fresh sample of the current oil
They can give more advice on the phone if you need
If you saved the old oil in a spotless clean container- then you can just grab some of it.
If not, take a warm fresh sample of the current oil
They can give more advice on the phone if you need
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