Major electrical problem after taking out radio and nav screen
Hello,
I hope someone can help me fairly quickly with my issue. Yesterday I took apart the center console, the panelling under and to the right of the steering wheel, and all the molding around the radio and navigation screen. I did this because I am replacing the touch screen. I did not have time finish the project so it is all still taken apart. When I drove my car I realized that the gauge cluster does not light up, none of the gauges are operational, my turn signals do not work, my sunroof does not work, and my power windows and mirrors do not work. Is there a wire harness or pigtail I may have bumped and not realized?
I thought maybe some of these functions were routed through the radio or nav unit in the dash so even though all the molding is not put back, I plugged in all the electrical components and I still have all the same symptoms.
What are the possible issues? I first thought a fuse, but I find it hard to believe that all those electrical components are on the same circuit.
-Randy
I hope someone can help me fairly quickly with my issue. Yesterday I took apart the center console, the panelling under and to the right of the steering wheel, and all the molding around the radio and navigation screen. I did this because I am replacing the touch screen. I did not have time finish the project so it is all still taken apart. When I drove my car I realized that the gauge cluster does not light up, none of the gauges are operational, my turn signals do not work, my sunroof does not work, and my power windows and mirrors do not work. Is there a wire harness or pigtail I may have bumped and not realized?
I thought maybe some of these functions were routed through the radio or nav unit in the dash so even though all the molding is not put back, I plugged in all the electrical components and I still have all the same symptoms.
What are the possible issues? I first thought a fuse, but I find it hard to believe that all those electrical components are on the same circuit.
-Randy
randy,
i have the same problem i was missing around with my radio yesterday and everything you described has happened to me. i checked all the fuses and non are blown. i been doing research and found some forms saying that it might be the multiplex, but there are 3 of them and they are not cheap..
when i first unlock the car and get in it my gauges and message screen work but i soon as i turn the key everything goes dead..
someone please help us..
i have the same problem i was missing around with my radio yesterday and everything you described has happened to me. i checked all the fuses and non are blown. i been doing research and found some forms saying that it might be the multiplex, but there are 3 of them and they are not cheap..
when i first unlock the car and get in it my gauges and message screen work but i soon as i turn the key everything goes dead..
someone please help us..
This is scary! Did you guys have the negative disconnected from the battery while working on the radio/nav? I recall reading someone else having a similar issue trying to change the light bulbs for the climate control. Pretty sure he had to replace a component (may have been the multiplexer you mentioned). Sorry I'm not any help but I'm in to see what you guys find.
i always disconnect the negative but this time my dumb ass forgot. does anyone know the locations of the multiplexer? im pretty sure i fried one of them, now i just gotta find the location of them.. this really sucks i cant roll down my windows, the heat is on full blast, no turn signals and i cant tell how fast im going!!!! i was taking the radio and dash apart so i could start modding everything for the ipad mini install but i guess I'm fixing this problem first. FAIL!!!
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I had an extremely unusual issue as a result of water intrusion in my 02 Accord V6 a few years back, and in my research I did see some people with really strange issues caused by damaged multiplex units. On that particular Accord there was 2, driver and passenger, attached to the fuseboxes. They were square blue boxes that snap into the fusebox. They are probably tricky to locate and remove, but they are easy to open. Some people did report visible damage. On that car they weren't impossible to locate cheap used, and I happen to have a small stack of them laying around. However, they appear to be exceedingly model and year specific, so its probably of no help there.
If you don't have any other real leads, and are considering replacing the multiplexers, you can open them up and see if they are visually damaged. If so, that's a damn solid sign something is wrong with that unit. If not, it's a bit less determinate.
If you don't have any other real leads, and are considering replacing the multiplexers, you can open them up and see if they are visually damaged. If so, that's a damn solid sign something is wrong with that unit. If not, it's a bit less determinate.
i just went out to my car but confused as hell.. i have no idea what I'm looking for.. i didnt see any blue boxes, might be different on the tl. on the drawing i think it shows the micu on the back of the fuse box? am i right?
looks like it will be part number 38200-SEP-A03. any acura dealer should stock it because there is an open recall on the part. the old part number is, 38200-SEP-A03. it's a little pricey. around $180.
sgodoy05 - the MICU is definitely the issue, there are 3 of them, and they can ONLY be replaced as an entire under-dash fuse box. The newest revision P/N is 38200-SEP-A03. I have a wholesale account at my local dealer so I'm going to get one ordered tomorrow, it should be in stock for the recall. I've attached to this post the replacement instructions, hope this helps!
I'll post my results when I get it installed.
I'll post my results when I get it installed.
The MICU is built into the under-dash fuse box. It's a PAIN IN THE ASS to replace. I should know - I had to do it when I fried the turn signal circuit trying to install my side-view cameras.
You not only have to take apart all the screws to get the MICU loose, but you have to take apart every single electrical connector, FRONT AND BACK. The back part is the hardest.
Unless you have freakishly small hands or a miracle tool, take it to the dealer to replace the MICU. I was quoted $50 to replace it at the Acura dealer.
You not only have to take apart all the screws to get the MICU loose, but you have to take apart every single electrical connector, FRONT AND BACK. The back part is the hardest.
Unless you have freakishly small hands or a miracle tool, take it to the dealer to replace the MICU. I was quoted $50 to replace it at the Acura dealer.
The MICU is built into the under-dash fuse box. It's a PAIN IN THE ASS to replace. I should know - I had to do it when I fried the turn signal circuit trying to install my side-view cameras.
You not only have to take apart all the screws to get the MICU loose, but you have to take apart every single electrical connector, FRONT AND BACK. The back part is the hardest.
Unless you have freakishly small hands or a miracle tool, take it to the dealer to replace the MICU. I was quoted $50 to replace it at the Acura dealer.
You not only have to take apart all the screws to get the MICU loose, but you have to take apart every single electrical connector, FRONT AND BACK. The back part is the hardest.
Unless you have freakishly small hands or a miracle tool, take it to the dealer to replace the MICU. I was quoted $50 to replace it at the Acura dealer.
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