Lost all tranny fluid while cruising down the freeway
05-04-2009, 05:55 PM
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Lost all tranny fluid while cruising down the freeway
Was headed to LA for the weekend and when we got about 50 miles south of Las Vegas the TL kicked out of gear and the engine began to rev. So I pulled over got out of the car, and noticed a long/thick path of tranny fluid trailing the car! It dumped all of the fluid.
The toe truck driver said this was the 4th TL he had toed in in the last week, one being an '06 and the rest being pre 3rd gen. The '06 was a surprise to me. He said it had the same problem mine had, with oil everywhere.
Myself, wife, sister I/L, and sisters boy friend were all set on going to LA. So we left the TL in the garage at home for the weekend, and I haven't had a chance to look at it until now. I jacked it up, removed the drivers side tire and the plastic shrowed from under the transmission and well.... I thought it would be easy to spot where it had all come from, but I've had no such luck. There is just fluid everywhere and the dip stick smells like it got hot.
Has anyone heard of this problem? I did a search and saw that a few owners had tranny leaks, but nothing like this.
A little info about the car: I bought in San Diago from the original owner two weeks ago with 111K miles on it and I have since driven it 1K miles. The 100K services has not been done. The original owner said he never had any tranny issues. Other than the recent mishap, the car has been great.
Anyone know a repitable mechanic in the Las Vegas area?
Any input/advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
-Nate
The toe truck driver said this was the 4th TL he had toed in in the last week, one being an '06 and the rest being pre 3rd gen. The '06 was a surprise to me. He said it had the same problem mine had, with oil everywhere.
Myself, wife, sister I/L, and sisters boy friend were all set on going to LA. So we left the TL in the garage at home for the weekend, and I haven't had a chance to look at it until now. I jacked it up, removed the drivers side tire and the plastic shrowed from under the transmission and well.... I thought it would be easy to spot where it had all come from, but I've had no such luck. There is just fluid everywhere and the dip stick smells like it got hot.
Has anyone heard of this problem? I did a search and saw that a few owners had tranny leaks, but nothing like this.
A little info about the car: I bought in San Diago from the original owner two weeks ago with 111K miles on it and I have since driven it 1K miles. The 100K services has not been done. The original owner said he never had any tranny issues. Other than the recent mishap, the car has been great.
Anyone know a repitable mechanic in the Las Vegas area?
Any input/advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
-Nate
05-04-2009, 11:06 PM
#3
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Here's an update
I filled the tranny back up (it was actually only 1qt low), then I took it for a test drive around the block, and no leaks! I don't understand what is happening. Maybe there are some external lines that aren't pressurized until freeway speeds? I had the cruise set at 80 when it happened.
My wife and I spent hours searching for where it all blew out from, with no luck. So the plan is to drive it on surface roads to a nearby mechanic where we can have the tranny looked at and the 100K mile service done. I'm hoping it's nothing serious.
I filled the tranny back up (it was actually only 1qt low), then I took it for a test drive around the block, and no leaks! I don't understand what is happening. Maybe there are some external lines that aren't pressurized until freeway speeds? I had the cruise set at 80 when it happened.
My wife and I spent hours searching for where it all blew out from, with no luck. So the plan is to drive it on surface roads to a nearby mechanic where we can have the tranny looked at and the 100K mile service done. I'm hoping it's nothing serious.
05-05-2009, 10:11 AM
#6
Were the drain and fill bolts there when you brought the car back? If there were, then you need to find the leak. When you loose that much fluid, there's either a leak or there isn't, nothing in between.
Start the car and drive it on jackstands. If it's pressure related, that should let you find where it is.
Start the car and drive it on jackstands. If it's pressure related, that should let you find where it is.
Last edited by vinuneuro; 05-05-2009 at 10:13 AM.
05-05-2009, 10:24 AM
#7
Just so the fear factor dwindles-Many years ago we were on a trip in a GM wagon, driving through Washington DC when I saw smoke out the back, pulled over and looked under the car as ATF was flowing freely. Made it to a service station, but had to wait while he finished a car on the lift. I then started it up, drove on the lift, added fluid, raised the car and no leak. We continued on our trip to Virginia, stayed a week and drove back, no problems. In this case I believe the trans fluid overheated as the fan clutch was shot, but the engine never overheated. Replaced the clutch, and kept the car 3 more years and not a problem.
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05-05-2009, 11:10 AM
#8
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
what a nightmare.. I'm guessing if it's not from the fill or drain bolt and not from the heater lines.. then probably from the T/C seal.
I bet.. too much ATF.. it got real hot and blew out of somewhere.. Definitely get your tranny fully inspected, if it's not expensive (probably not) then definitely get your Timing belt, water pump & belt tensioner changed before you pop some valves and need to overhaul the engine. If you need a new tranny (~$3k) reseal (~$1.5k) 105k service (~$600).. damn.
I bet.. too much ATF.. it got real hot and blew out of somewhere.. Definitely get your tranny fully inspected, if it's not expensive (probably not) then definitely get your Timing belt, water pump & belt tensioner changed before you pop some valves and need to overhaul the engine. If you need a new tranny (~$3k) reseal (~$1.5k) 105k service (~$600).. damn.
05-05-2009, 06:52 PM
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Just got off the phone with Sansone's Honda/Acura Service. He quoted me $880 for the TB, belt tensioner, and WP. They will also inspect the transmission.
I also called the dealership, they quoted me $990 and then $840 after a 20% online coupon (don't know how he got that number). They replace the TB, WP, and sometimes the tensioner (only if it shows wear).
Not sure which place I should take it to. The shop was recommended to me from a coworker. And the dealership probably has more TL experience.
I also called the dealership, they quoted me $990 and then $840 after a 20% online coupon (don't know how he got that number). They replace the TB, WP, and sometimes the tensioner (only if it shows wear).
Not sure which place I should take it to. The shop was recommended to me from a coworker. And the dealership probably has more TL experience.
05-05-2009, 06:58 PM
#10
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Just got off the phone with Sansone's Honda/Acura Service. He quoted me $880 for the TB, belt tensioner, and WP. They will also inspect the transmission.
I also called the dealership, they quoted me $990 and then $840 after a 20% online coupon (don't know how he got that number). They replace the TB, WP, and sometimes the tensioner (only if it shows wear).
Not sure which place I should take it to. The shop was recommended to me from a coworker. And the dealership probably has more TL experience.
I also called the dealership, they quoted me $990 and then $840 after a 20% online coupon (don't know how he got that number). They replace the TB, WP, and sometimes the tensioner (only if it shows wear).
Not sure which place I should take it to. The shop was recommended to me from a coworker. And the dealership probably has more TL experience.
I don't know your finances but unless you're able to cash out for a new tranny & do the tb service I'd hold off on the 105k service.
Also.. $800+ is really high.. call reputable honda / acura independent shops and get some quotes. I think a fair price + parts is $450 no more than $600. This is also a DIY if you have the right tools & patience.
05-05-2009, 08:40 PM
#11
Team Owner
Was there any fluid on the top of the transmission?
One thing I don't like about the TL's transmission programming is when under a heavy load like a hill or fully loaded, it will unlock the convertor and stay in 5th gear. This creates tons of heat. I always downshift to 4th, the convertor locks up so no additional heat is generated and the rpms are the same as 5th gear unlocked.
The computer's strategy just asks for overheating.
You're much better in areas like the Baker grade taking them with it in manual 4th.
One thing I don't like about the TL's transmission programming is when under a heavy load like a hill or fully loaded, it will unlock the convertor and stay in 5th gear. This creates tons of heat. I always downshift to 4th, the convertor locks up so no additional heat is generated and the rpms are the same as 5th gear unlocked.
The computer's strategy just asks for overheating.
You're much better in areas like the Baker grade taking them with it in manual 4th.
05-11-2009, 10:38 PM
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$1700 later....
The mechanic (a guy I trust) replaced the TB, WP, Tensioner, motor mount, oil pan, power steering pump, and drained the Tranny.
I should have seen a red flag when the original owner told me he changes his oil and has the tires rotated for $13 every 5K miles (is that even possible?). Well, you get what you pay for... the shop he was using put in an over-sized drain plug causing a crack in the oil pan! Thus why I had it replaced for $430.
Unfortunately my mechanic wasn't sure why the tranny overheated, and advised replacing the fluid in 6K miles and then every 15K for the life of the car.
Turbonut, thank you for dwindling my fear factor. Reading your story was a relief. I hope my tranny will be good for years to come.
I hate cars, Thanks for the advice. I'll keep it in mind when travelling steep grades. BTW, nice stable, can't imagine the thrills recieved from the Grand National.
The mechanic (a guy I trust) replaced the TB, WP, Tensioner, motor mount, oil pan, power steering pump, and drained the Tranny.
I should have seen a red flag when the original owner told me he changes his oil and has the tires rotated for $13 every 5K miles (is that even possible?). Well, you get what you pay for... the shop he was using put in an over-sized drain plug causing a crack in the oil pan! Thus why I had it replaced for $430.
Unfortunately my mechanic wasn't sure why the tranny overheated, and advised replacing the fluid in 6K miles and then every 15K for the life of the car.
Turbonut, thank you for dwindling my fear factor. Reading your story was a relief. I hope my tranny will be good for years to come.
I hate cars, Thanks for the advice. I'll keep it in mind when travelling steep grades. BTW, nice stable, can't imagine the thrills recieved from the Grand National.
05-09-2018, 08:53 PM
#13
Was there any fluid on the top of the transmission?
One thing I don't like about the TL's transmission programming is when under a heavy load like a hill or fully loaded, it will unlock the convertor and stay in 5th gear. This creates tons of heat. I always downshift to 4th, the convertor locks up so no additional heat is generated and the rpms are the same as 5th gear unlocked.
The computer's strategy just asks for overheating.
You're much better in areas like the Baker grade taking them with it in manual 4th.
One thing I don't like about the TL's transmission programming is when under a heavy load like a hill or fully loaded, it will unlock the convertor and stay in 5th gear. This creates tons of heat. I always downshift to 4th, the convertor locks up so no additional heat is generated and the rpms are the same as 5th gear unlocked.
The computer's strategy just asks for overheating.
You're much better in areas like the Baker grade taking them with it in manual 4th.
P0722 - Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
Fast forward 6 months - the same thing happens on the interstate. I get to the car and the engine is cool. Engine coolant levels are normal and there's ATF on the top of the transmission and along the under side of the car. I start the car and turn on the A/C. Both fans kick on and the engine is running normally. I had a long funnel ready to add more fluid and put in one quart of Honda ATF. In Neutral the dipstick read between the full and half dots. I had my friend move the car to Drive, 3rd Gear, and Low Gear going back and forth a few times. While in Neutral I added another half quart and put everything back together and drove it home. With my OBDII scanner I got the identical codes.
Per "I Hate Cars" response it seems plausible that if the speed sensor fails that it might cause the transmission computer to think it's under heavy load and unlock the torque converter while at speed and in final gear, heat up, and blow the fluid out. This is my hypothesis. Does anyone have any other input before I buy a new OEM speed sensor?
10-22-2018, 04:47 AM
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Same happened to me
I understand this is an OLD thread but the same thing happened to our 2005 TL. In the middle of an 8 hour drive it started dumping the fluid and acted like it went into neutral and there was a trail of smoke behind the car. The coolant level was fine, but along the underside of the car it was wet and came from the top of the transmission where there appears to be a pressure bypass tube. Putting more Honda OEM ATF seemed to fix the the issue. We thought it was related to a fan that didn't seem to be operational. The car had the following codes the time which we thought were just related to the loss of fluid:
P0722 - Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
Fast forward 6 months - the same thing happens on the interstate. I get to the car and the engine is cool. Engine coolant levels are normal and there's ATF on the top of the transmission and along the under side of the car. I start the car and turn on the A/C. Both fans kick on and the engine is running normally. I had a long funnel ready to add more fluid and put in one quart of Honda ATF. In Neutral the dipstick read between the full and half dots. I had my friend move the car to Drive, 3rd Gear, and Low Gear going back and forth a few times. While in Neutral I added another half quart and put everything back together and drove it home. With my OBDII scanner I got the identical codes.
Per "I Hate Cars" response it seems plausible that if the speed sensor fails that it might cause the transmission computer to think it's under heavy load and unlock the torque converter while at speed and in final gear, heat up, and blow the fluid out. This is my hypothesis. Does anyone have any other input before I buy a new OEM speed sensor?
P0722 - Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
Fast forward 6 months - the same thing happens on the interstate. I get to the car and the engine is cool. Engine coolant levels are normal and there's ATF on the top of the transmission and along the under side of the car. I start the car and turn on the A/C. Both fans kick on and the engine is running normally. I had a long funnel ready to add more fluid and put in one quart of Honda ATF. In Neutral the dipstick read between the full and half dots. I had my friend move the car to Drive, 3rd Gear, and Low Gear going back and forth a few times. While in Neutral I added another half quart and put everything back together and drove it home. With my OBDII scanner I got the identical codes.
Per "I Hate Cars" response it seems plausible that if the speed sensor fails that it might cause the transmission computer to think it's under heavy load and unlock the torque converter while at speed and in final gear, heat up, and blow the fluid out. This is my hypothesis. Does anyone have any other input before I buy a new OEM speed sensor?
10-22-2018, 04:51 AM
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Codes
please help I was driving at 40 mph and then my car just start rev out of nowhere and I couldn’t move in drive or reverse so I stop it and turned it back on out it in drive it move for 1 min maybe then same thing only rev I went to an auto zone got it scan and got these codes I change all ignition coils put new speed sensor and added a quart of atf and car still won’t move I’m at 164,000 its Acura TL 06 auto if someone can help I’ll appreciate it I don’t know much about cars I’m learning as I go thank you all
cods for output speed sensor p0722 I changed that
and also code for p0741 tc clutch stuck off I didn’t change that what can I do please help
10-22-2018, 08:29 AM
#16
What is your fluid level? And what color is the fluid? Bright red/clean? Dark red/dirty? Black like oil?
If the fluid is clean you might get away with replacing some external switches / soilenoids. I was looking at the repair manual a while ago and remember seeing TC pressure switches and solenoid on the front of the transmission. If one is those failed it could cause the problem and might take care of it, however as I found out these transmissions don’t last unless you do constant fluid changes/maintenance.
The speed sensor is likely caused by a lack of internal fluid pressure which isn’t good. I also doubt the output speed sensor is bad. I got that code too when my car revved after dumping fluid. It was fine as soon as it got more fluid. If you have the proper fluid levels then it’s certainly a fluid pressure issue.
I discovered out that my issue has happened to other cars according to an old Honda master tech who said when they dump the fluid the transmission is done (ie, rebuild/replace). I have a 40k mile transmission from a 2007 Accord V6 that I’m in the middle of installing on my TL right now.
10-23-2018, 11:15 AM
#17
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If the engine was running fine before it’s very unlikely that the coil packs are bad. One is them, maybe, but for all 6 to fail at the same time is virtually impossible. The code was likely a result of the transmission letting go and revving. I would keep that receipt ready and return those coil packs if you can.
What is your fluid level? And what color is the fluid? Bright red/clean? Dark red/dirty? Black like oil?
If the fluid is clean you might get away with replacing some external switches / soilenoids. I was looking at the repair manual a while ago and remember seeing TC pressure switches and solenoid on the front of the transmission. If one is those failed it could cause the problem and might take care of it, however as I found out these transmissions don’t last unless you do constant fluid changes/maintenance.
The speed sensor is likely caused by a lack of internal fluid pressure which isn’t good. I also doubt the output speed sensor is bad. I got that code too when my car revved after dumping fluid. It was fine as soon as it got more fluid. If you have the proper fluid levels then it’s certainly a fluid pressure issue.
I discovered out that my issue has happened to other cars according to an old Honda master tech who said when they dump the fluid the transmission is done (ie, rebuild/replace). I have a 40k mile transmission from a 2007 Accord V6 that I’m in the middle of installing on my TL right now.
10-23-2018, 03:00 PM
#18
thanks and yes I changef trans fluid now and the filter and still nothing it was a dirty black maybe that’s not good and your right everything was fine at first then out of nowhere the engine begin rev while driving I need to see what all trans I can put into this 06 TL and maybe just have it swapped out or a new car it just sucks I haven’t even had it for a year and still paying it off from a dealership I feel like they sold me a bad car and they knew it was bad
10-23-2018, 03:40 PM
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I hate to say it, but if I had to place a bet I would feel comfortable putting money on your car needing a new/rebuilt transmission. The car revving and black trans fluid seems to equal dead transmission in these cars. You could take it to a transmission shop for a professional opinion. It's worth a shot before dumping the car if that's what you are planning to do and at least you could confirm what you're up against.
10-23-2018, 03:56 PM
#20
Drifting
Punctuation is your friend.
164k miles on an auto and you are upset/surprised it failed? It sucks when major failures happen, but this is for sure within the normal range for these transmissions to have issues....and they generally are sudden. Without knowing how the previous owner handled preventive maintenance and how well you handled preventive maintenance, there is no real way to ever know how long it should or shouldn't last. There are plenty of threads on here talking about what transmission options are out there. I wouldn't assume the dealer will do anything for you after a year on a car that is this old with this many miles.
164k miles on an auto and you are upset/surprised it failed? It sucks when major failures happen, but this is for sure within the normal range for these transmissions to have issues....and they generally are sudden. Without knowing how the previous owner handled preventive maintenance and how well you handled preventive maintenance, there is no real way to ever know how long it should or shouldn't last. There are plenty of threads on here talking about what transmission options are out there. I wouldn't assume the dealer will do anything for you after a year on a car that is this old with this many miles.
10-23-2018, 04:07 PM
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Punctuation is your friend.
164k miles on an auto and you are upset/surprised it failed? It sucks when major failures happen, but this is for sure within the normal range for these transmissions to have issues....and they generally are sudden. Without knowing how the previous owner handled preventive maintenance and how well you handled preventive maintenance, there is no real way to ever know how long it should or shouldn't last. There are plenty of threads on here talking about what transmission options are out there. I wouldn't assume the dealer will do anything for you after a year on a car that is this old with this many miles.
164k miles on an auto and you are upset/surprised it failed? It sucks when major failures happen, but this is for sure within the normal range for these transmissions to have issues....and they generally are sudden. Without knowing how the previous owner handled preventive maintenance and how well you handled preventive maintenance, there is no real way to ever know how long it should or shouldn't last. There are plenty of threads on here talking about what transmission options are out there. I wouldn't assume the dealer will do anything for you after a year on a car that is this old with this many miles.
10-23-2018, 09:40 PM
#22
Drifting
Did you change the transmission fluid as soon as you took possession of the vehicle? Many failures are sudden with little warning. Not all of them are easy to see coming so the dealer may not have lied to you. But if you didn't change the transmission fluid immediately, that would have been the best way to have an idea of the condition of the transmission.
This may be a tad harsh, but if you have had the car for a year and still paying on the loan, you bought the wrong car. Rarely should anyone be taking out a long loan on a car that is over 10 years old with 150k+ miles on it.
And for f'sake, find the period and comma buttons on your phone. Holy crap that is difficult to read.
This may be a tad harsh, but if you have had the car for a year and still paying on the loan, you bought the wrong car. Rarely should anyone be taking out a long loan on a car that is over 10 years old with 150k+ miles on it.
And for f'sake, find the period and comma buttons on your phone. Holy crap that is difficult to read.
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Joecop67 (10-24-2018)
10-23-2018, 09:52 PM
#23
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Did you change the transmission fluid as soon as you took possession of the vehicle? Many failures are sudden with little warning. Not all of them are easy to see coming so the dealer may not have lied to you. But if you didn't change the transmission fluid immediately, that would have been the best way to have an idea of the condition of the transmission.
This may be a tad harsh, but if you have had the car for a year and still paying on the loan, you bought the wrong car. Rarely should anyone be taking out a long loan on a car that is over 10 years old with 150k+ miles on it.
And for f'sake, find the period and comma buttons on your phone. Holy crap that is difficult to read.
This may be a tad harsh, but if you have had the car for a year and still paying on the loan, you bought the wrong car. Rarely should anyone be taking out a long loan on a car that is over 10 years old with 150k+ miles on it.
And for f'sake, find the period and comma buttons on your phone. Holy crap that is difficult to read.
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Joecop67 (10-24-2018)
09-18-2020, 11:37 PM
#25
I had this same code p0741? Did you fix the problem? I know it’s old post but see If I can get any help?
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