LED day time running lights won't turn on
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
LED day time running lights won't turn on
New to posting on this site so here we go. I own a 2007 Base TL and I am in the process of replacing all exterior lighting to LED's. LED day time running lights will not come on at all. It's not fuse, bulbs or wiring, I've eliminated all of those things. It was suggested that I get load resistors which I did and still nothing. When I put my OEM DRL's, they come on. Any help would be greatly appreciate it.
#2
Senior Moderator
did you use a relay harness?
#4
Senior Moderator
LEDs are polarity sensitive, did you try and flip the plug to see if they turn on then? Do you have a DRL light on your dashboard? Do you have a multimeter and can see if there's power? pics of your installation and harness you bought?
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks for you help, I appreciate it. When both LED are plugged in no DRL light on dash. I already eliminated each of your suggestions, swapped bulbs, swapped harness. Tried to post pics. Hope you see them.
#7
Senior Moderator
No pics sir..
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#8
Check your ground. Make sure that if it's touching the body of the car that the paint has been scraped off from that area for a good, solid connection. From personal experience, every issue that I have had with LED exterior lighting with my TL has been due to that. Good luck
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Here is the link to the wire harness I purchased.
. Again, thanks for all the feedback and suggestions from everyone. Getting a little frustrated.
#10
This harness won't work. It simply puts additional load on the system to fool cars that measure current going to the lamps (since LEDs will draw much less current). Our cars don't measure current. Both bulbs for DRL are connected in series, making them run in 6V each. Car then checks the voltage between the bulbs. If it's around 6V, then all is good, if 0 or battery voltage, one of the bulbs burned out.
You need one of harnesses that has a relay and separate battery connection, or DIY a harness yourself.
Here's my thread of how I did it in my car:
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...nstall-960677/
Here's some other thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...w-pics-853543/
You need one of harnesses that has a relay and separate battery connection, or DIY a harness yourself.
Here's my thread of how I did it in my car:
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...nstall-960677/
Here's some other thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...w-pics-853543/
The following users liked this post:
def04TL (11-11-2020)
#12
Senior Moderator
Yeah that wasn't a wire harness.. that's just load resistors. you'll need an actual relay harness, preferably a good quality one like from Morimoto (www.thretrofitsource.com). 9005 input.
#13
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Hey Peter - I contacted IJMD regarding the second harness you posted. Here's the link https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/w...adapter-aa1180. Question...which load resistors would I purchase? I was thinking the resistors came with harness.
Thanks,
Dan
Thanks,
Dan
#14
I didn't buy resistors, but instead used what I had. Probably anything that will plug in will work.
Since our cars don't check for current, but instead they check the voltage in the middle part, the higher resistance of the resistors the better - less power goes to waste as heat.
If you want to go "semi DIY", you can buy 9005 adapters, and solder the 1k or 10k resistors to them. Barely any waste, no light on the dash, no heat, easy way to connect the harness from the link.
If you know how to solder and have tools, I can guide you how to make it. Crimp connectors might also work, but I'm not a fan of those.
Since our cars don't check for current, but instead they check the voltage in the middle part, the higher resistance of the resistors the better - less power goes to waste as heat.
If you want to go "semi DIY", you can buy 9005 adapters, and solder the 1k or 10k resistors to them. Barely any waste, no light on the dash, no heat, easy way to connect the harness from the link.
If you know how to solder and have tools, I can guide you how to make it. Crimp connectors might also work, but I'm not a fan of those.
#15
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Nope, never soldered in my life. But it looks pretty self explanatory I am going to order the harness. Can you provide a list of what tools/wires I will need? If you have time once I get the harness, it would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan
Thanks,
Dan
#16
Posting links to whatever came up first in search:
Any low wattage 10k (10,000 ohm) resistors will work fine.
Any male 9005 connectors will work fine.
If you don't plan to return the harness that you bought, the one from the link you posted in post #9, you can cut it and use those. $8 vs $15 so whatever is easier
If you don't plan to solder more, then this will probably will be enough:
Also a knife or something to strip the wires.
Then you combine everything like:
You might need extra wire to connect "#5 wire on the harness" to the passenger's side "new connector". (if you search for 18 AWG wire, that should be enough)
Some insulation tape or heatshrink tubes.
Then power from the harness (one that has fuse inline) goes to battery positive, black on the harness goes to ground (or battery negative).
That's all. Or you could search for harness made specifically for our cars. It seems like not many people liked my solution, but it works and was cheapest for me.
Any low wattage 10k (10,000 ohm) resistors will work fine.
Any male 9005 connectors will work fine.
If you don't plan to return the harness that you bought, the one from the link you posted in post #9, you can cut it and use those. $8 vs $15 so whatever is easier
If you don't plan to solder more, then this will probably will be enough:
Also a knife or something to strip the wires.
Then you combine everything like:
You might need extra wire to connect "#5 wire on the harness" to the passenger's side "new connector". (if you search for 18 AWG wire, that should be enough)
Some insulation tape or heatshrink tubes.
Then power from the harness (one that has fuse inline) goes to battery positive, black on the harness goes to ground (or battery negative).
That's all. Or you could search for harness made specifically for our cars. It seems like not many people liked my solution, but it works and was cheapest for me.
Last edited by peter6; 11-16-2020 at 09:30 PM.
The following users liked this post:
gatrhumpy (11-17-2020)
#18
If you are already building and soldering the wiring harness by yourself, it might be easier and faster to build the whole thing yourself.
By using the connectors, some extra wires, and 10k resistors, you could build what I did, but without cutting into any of the factory wires. That would eliminate the fault light, provide 12v to the bulbs, and won't require extra connection to the battery and no extra relay.
By using the connectors, some extra wires, and 10k resistors, you could build what I did, but without cutting into any of the factory wires. That would eliminate the fault light, provide 12v to the bulbs, and won't require extra connection to the battery and no extra relay.
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