KP Module hook-up - NEED QUICK HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 04:01 PM
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KP Module hook-up - NEED QUICK HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ok, fairly simple getting to everything.

I'm stuck at the KP Yellow wire. Does it go to the thin Green w/ White strip at the white multi-pin connector????

I wrote down that it goes to a yellow with green stripe and there isn't such a wire.

Please respond quick - I'm running out of time!!!
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 04:09 PM
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ok, i'm just gonna go with the green with white stripe.

mods please close thread.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 04:15 PM
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https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/kp-technologies-window-roll-up-module-install-3g-garage-i-097-a-596643/
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 06:15 PM
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That's what I went off of right before I posted the question.
The problem is that I read in some other post which wires went to what and the yellow was wrong.

To anyone who is about to do it, here are exact wire to wire instructions:

(on white multi-pin connector)
KP Yellow goes to (thin) Green w/ White stripe
KP Red goes to (thick) Green w/ White stripe
KP Black goes to (thick) Black - solid w/ no stripe

(on gray 3 pin connector)
KP Green goes to (thin) White w/ Red stripe

(on hidden loom which wires into main connectors)
KP Blue goes to (thin) Yellow w/Black stripe
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 06:26 PM
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Oh, by the way, everything works just like it should. I soldered every connection and then electrical taped to secure the joint and prevent moisture. The hardest part was unplugging the factory switches to get the panel off....which I just flipped the panel upside down to see the release tabs of the switches.

Cheap and relatively easy mod...granted you know which wires to splice into.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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KP's yellow goes to the small green and white under the big green and white
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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this module is the shit....an install which shouldnt take more that 30 mins took me friggin 3 hours....

t-taps FTL .....solder joints FTW
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
this module is the shit....an install which shouldnt take more that 30 mins took me friggin 3 hours....

t-taps FTL .....solder joints FTW
I don't have solder equipments, and my parking is underground, I can't find a power outlet near my car.

So, I've opted for T-Taps and that's how I accidentally cut the small green/white cable.

After fixing everything I used lots of electrical tape to make sure all wiring are secure.

That's why took my like a little more than 2 hours (that's including going back to Radio Shack to get wires, which I only used few inches)
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:36 PM
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I left the yellow disconnected... so now if I have multiple windows open while driving and I want to close all of them automatically (without touching and holding the window switch)... all I do is hit the lock buttom twice... and BOOM all my windows and sunroof close...
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rodneyc77
I left the yellow disconnected... so now if I have multiple windows open while driving and I want to close all of them automatically (without touching and holding the window switch)... all I do is hit the lock buttom twice... and BOOM all my windows and sunroof close...
does your remote work unhurt ????

dude i wanted to do this but thought remote wont work as well.....you see am a computer guy LOL
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by georgegiorgio
I don't have solder equipments, and my parking is underground, I can't find a power outlet near my car.

So, I've opted for T-Taps and that's how I accidentally cut the small green/white cable.

After fixing everything I used lots of electrical tape to make sure all wiring are secure.

That's why took my like a little more than 2 hours (that's including going back to Radio Shack to get wires, which I only used few inches)
LOL i did the install at my girls parents house

so I had all the outlets and I do have a solder equipment (did footrest lighting before).....plus I had 3 extra cars there if I needed something
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob RiL
Oh, by the way, everything works just like it should. I soldered every connection and then electrical taped to secure the joint and prevent moisture. The hardest part was unplugging the factory switches to get the panel off....which I just flipped the panel upside down to see the release tabs of the switches.

Cheap and relatively easy mod...granted you know which wires to splice into.
Glad you got it all hooked up and working. I'll probably install mine sometime soon. I think I'm going to solder the wires also since there's a lot of vibration in the door and moisture seems to get in there pretty easily. Plus, like has been mentioned, the wire sizes vary which doesn't work well with the t-taps.

I'll preface this by admitting I haven't even looked at the instructions, but when you are splicing in the module wiring, are you just removing some of the insulation from the factory wire and then just soldering the KP wire to the exposed section? Then wrapping the splice with tape to protect it? On the other hand, would it be worth it to cut the factory wire so you could add some heat-shrink tubing and then soldering the wires back together?
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jweb12
Glad you got it all hooked up and working. I'll probably install mine sometime soon. I think I'm going to solder the wires also since there's a lot of vibration in the door and moisture seems to get in there pretty easily. Plus, like has been mentioned, the wire sizes vary which doesn't work well with the t-taps.

I'll preface this by admitting I haven't even looked at the instructions, but when you are splicing in the module wiring, are you just removing some of the insulation from the factory wire and then just soldering the KP wire to the exposed section? Then wrapping the splice with tape to protect it? On the other hand, would it be worth it to cut the factory wire so you could add some heat-shrink tubing and then soldering the wires back together?
i wouldnt cut the wire....its pretty tight in there....so once you cut the wire and splice both ends it would be pretty hard to solder everything back....

i put the t-tabs on there....and not even one wire was connected properly....

This is what I did:

1> i took everything out
2> took all the t-tabs previously installed out (the wires were just pressed in and not spliced)
4> took a "not so sharp" knife and cut the insulation a little. And if the insulation wouldnt still come off then using a solder iron I heated the insulation off the wire
5> then i spliced the K&P wire
6> i put a whole bunch of solder on the original car wire.....
7> i wound the K&P spliced wire on the car wire with solder....
8> soldered the shit on there
9> put electrical tape around the soldered part and then put some more tape around the K&P wire and then around all the wire
10> put everything back together
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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^ That's what I was thinking, thanks!
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