There's no such thing as winter in Texas.

 

^tell that to people in Lubbock.

 

it is the starter

 

10 minute job... well 10 minutes to swap starter.. 30 fucking with battery tray.

 

if you want a DIY I can post one with a shade tree rebuild guide.

 

finished waxing and tried to pull it into the garage.
no go.

 

Beat it up..

Just get a breaker bar and smack the armature a few good times.

 

I bet you're right. The pop of the trans going into first gear was probably all it took to make it work again temporarily.

 

Clearly a case of 6MT starter over-rev.

 

this totally looks familiar.
took me 30 mins to get the starter-motor out, battery tray included.

I have a refurbished one from rockauto.com coming in on thursday.
I'm off friday, monday and tuesday.

will report back with more shenanigans

 

i'll check the rear PCD out while i'm at it.

 

Hopefully after this you'll be done once and for all. Or at least for a few months.

How hard is it to get at the precats/PCDs?

 

not hard, i just dont want to mess with the engine any more

I did detail the hell out of it tho.
the clay bar picked up a lot of red paint. I guess I shouldnt have painted the valve covers in the garage.

it hasnt seen the sun yet, but even in my garage it glistens. the silver has a blue tint to it that kinda resembles a jewel.

 

Great work, Justin...you're a formidable detail oriented guy. Always knew you had it in you.

 

Relocate battery to trunk, remove pcds, turbo install..

 

Curbs beware

 

Awesome just read all 11 pages of this. Really curious if you plan on getting it dynoed

 

Glad to see it up and running! You should go back to the same dyno ASAP. I'm assuming your mods are the same minus the heads?

 

title change

 

Fin!

 

Awesome job

 

 

Living dangerously I see. Waaayyyy too close to curb and trees

Congrats! (and no, next time you can't borrow my IR W7150 )

 

So... when you gonna do the fogs?

 

NEVAR.

at some point in time, i'd probably retrofit Ford Fusion fog lights or what ever the coolest trend is at the time.

 

Soooooooooooooo are you going to dyno at some point, Justin? Car looks GREAT btw.

 

That fog hole makes a good breather for a CAI. Might actually gain a horsepower or two.

 

 

+1. curious to see if these heads with the different port shape make any difference in power on the j32

 

He said he didn't feel like it was super much faster...I doubt he'll pay to confirm his initial impression.

 

im still chasing down an exhaust leak.

exhaust leak = loss of hp.

I changed the oil yesterday.
Ive put about 300 or so miles on her since the swap.
wanted to see what oil looked like after head swap, if any shavings or dirt or anything was in the oil.

Oil was still a golden honey color when drained.
Didnt see any coolant or metal.
picked up some new crush washers from Acura, since I saw the drain bolt was leaking...
she runs great. no CEL, or hesitation from engine.

I have a louder than normal ticking sound, but might be exhaust leak.
or the valves
the engine is running very smoothly all the way to redline.
no hesitation at all.

 

Fk it, run open primary, yolo style!

Jack up, jack stands, get under there with the car on and have someone carefully rev it...you should be able to pinpoint where. With the cracked primary from the broken motor mount, is there a chance it affected the flex section (non visible underneath) part of the Jpipe?

Found mine with fingers or get this chalk dust for areas that are too hot to touch. We used to use it to find leaks in duct systems for work. You can use baby powder and a little bottle to kinda shoot it at the area you think might be leaking. It'll be obvious.

 

I'm talking after the exhaust leak is found. I would even consider donating towards a dyno since it may help me sell my 3.7 heads. I didn't feel much up top from the 3.7 intake setup and I gained 15whp....butt dynos suck.

Glad it's running good. Hopefully you find the leak.

 

oil leak discovered.

Looks like from the pan's drain hole.
looks like I torqued the bolt too tight a couple of times and deformed the shape of the soft metal.
I had bought a new bolt and crush washer only to find today that it's still leaking.

yes, I LOVE CHANGING OIL PANS!


at first, i kept doubting it was the drain hole because i found oil all the way up on the back side of the engine.
at speed, air flow must blow oil from the drain hole and splashes it every where

 

Check vtec/filter gasket, make sure it's not leaking from there and egressing to the drain plug.

 

hope I installed all the timing belt covers correctly


dont want any oil getting in there.

 

send your minion crabs to take care of it..

 

If you do the oil pan it'd be worth it to pick up an OEM oil strainer off an 07-08 either the 3.2L or 3.5L, see #5 in this image:



The OEM strainer on the 04-06 gets in the way when re-installing the pan. It's #5 on this image:



For the headache that it is getting the oil pan back in it'll be worth it, it looks like the new strainer design has more clearance right where the old design would hit the pan when trying to re-install it.

I did the oil pan, with the car on jacks, on my back on the concrete and it's no fun at all. The pan may slide out really easy, but getting it to go back in was not fun.

 

Thanks for the heads up.
yeah, im planning to do it on my back on jack stands.


my buddy has already done it a couple of times because he's slammed and has told me about the bolts that are hidden by the subframe.

 

Just caught up. Congrats, justin! Nice job. These lingering issues ain't shit considering what you've just been through. Cheers man.