Justnspace vs J32/J37

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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 01:12 AM
  #361  
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How much psi were you running on the comp test? If you have high ring pressures it is sometimes necessary to add another 10-15psi to detect any leaking valves or worn seats. Leak down tests are always more accurate and give you a much better idea of where the compression loss is going. Hissing out the throttle body=intake valve leak/ heard from the exhaust =exhaust valve leak, etc.

Last edited by KR3J//; Sep 10, 2014 at 01:25 AM.
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 05:28 AM
  #362  
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Justin-Just take the old heads, turn them upside down and pour gas into the valve area. When the gas leaks past the valve(s), then you'll know which were affected. Naturally, they all need to be closed, cams removed.
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 06:23 AM
  #363  
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Dude, it took him 2 months and 8 friends doing the labor for him to get this done...y'all are nuts to think he's going backward from it working now...

I do have the advantage that I've met him in person and know his affinity for a hammock and a nice summer breeze first hand.
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Old Sep 11, 2014 | 06:18 PM
  #364  
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found a significant crack in the Pre-cat deletes and the source of my exhaust leak.
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Old Sep 11, 2014 | 06:21 PM
  #365  
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weld!
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Old Sep 11, 2014 | 06:40 PM
  #366  
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there isnt any thing wrong with the RV6 steel.

this is due from the stress of the weak front mount.
I had found the mount loosened, so the torque of the engine rocking back and fourth must have loosened the bolt and cracked the pipe.

this is all from driving the SHIT out of my car, fucking RIGO! lol

I wanna go tear up his 400hp GTO, now. lol
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Old Sep 11, 2014 | 06:42 PM
  #367  
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he means weld to fix it...
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Old Sep 11, 2014 | 06:43 PM
  #368  
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
he means weld to fix it...



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Old Sep 11, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #369  
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so why did you respond with "there's nothing wrong with the rv6 steel"?

Nobody asked why it cracked, we already knew why.



...because Justin.
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Old Sep 11, 2014 | 06:45 PM
  #370  
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
so why did you respond with "there's nothing wrong with the rv6 steel"?

Nobody asked why it cracked, we already knew why.



...because Justin.

you dont like to hear stories on why something happened???????


I know I like to and was informing my thread on what I found.



plus, i wasnt even responding to majofo
Because Jeremy.

Last edited by justnspace; Sep 11, 2014 at 06:49 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2014 | 10:28 PM
  #371  
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From: Waffles, BU
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Old Sep 12, 2014 | 06:02 AM
  #372  
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Justin...one day, when you can pay attention for long enough, I'll show you how to have a logically flowing conversation with someone.

Okay, cool...thanks for the story on how you broke your PCD. Now how are you going to fix it?
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Old Sep 12, 2014 | 06:07 AM
  #373  
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^ i came to the conclusion of welding it before I even posted it.........

lol


c'mon man, you are patronizing me.


I know you're just trying to help, but you dont have to call out my personality EVERY chance you get.





for some reason, YOU dont want to see my updates.
and that's all I'm doing with this thread; giving updates.
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Old Sep 12, 2014 | 06:12 AM
  #374  
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Could be...guess I read it wrong. Sorry, man.
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Old Sep 12, 2014 | 07:42 AM
  #375  
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Action vids?
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Old Sep 12, 2014 | 08:25 AM
  #376  
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
Could be...guess I read it wrong. Sorry, man.
no worries.

I still lava you.
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Old Sep 12, 2014 | 08:25 AM
  #377  
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Originally Posted by KR3J//
How much psi were you running on the comp test? If you have high ring pressures it is sometimes necessary to add another 10-15psi to detect any leaking valves or worn seats. Leak down tests are always more accurate and give you a much better idea of where the compression loss is going. Hissing out the throttle body=intake valve leak/ heard from the exhaust =exhaust valve leak, etc.
I agree with you. Just wanted to say nice choice on tires, those RS3s are the closest things I've run to a full race tire on the street.

I do a leakdown over a compression test just about all the time except when a bent rod is suspected such as in a hydrolock situation. In that one case, the old school compression test is superior and will show a slight loss in compression with a bent rod while the leak down may show nothing wrong.
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Old Sep 12, 2014 | 08:54 AM
  #378  
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Old Sep 12, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #379  
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Honestly, after a night of heavy drinking, I find the leak down test to be a lot more applicable though.
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 09:57 AM
  #380  
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got the pipe welded.
installed.

OBDII reader to clear codes.

she's running SUPERBLY!



OBDII codes were for running lean. 02 sensors.

Last edited by justnspace; Sep 13, 2014 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 10:42 AM
  #381  
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^Way to go!

Gonna post a video soon?

Last edited by 1black_seven; Sep 13, 2014 at 10:44 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 10:55 AM
  #382  
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Originally Posted by 1black_seven
^Way to go!

Gonna post a video soon?
sure!

it's raining right now, supposed to all day.
tomorrow, it'll be clear then a week long rain fest.

I did take it out for a test drive, runs great!
couldnt really push it due to rain, i was slipping all over the road.


I really want the Hankook RS3's now.
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 11:28 AM
  #383  
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Any plans to dyno? I know you did this as a repair and any gains are gravy but it would be interesting to see. I was also curious, did you use J32 or J37 headgaskets? I didnt realize the J37 has a larger bore and was wondering how that would affect things. I'm sure the compression ratio is just ever so slightly higher, but probably not something to be too concerned about.
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 11:37 AM
  #384  
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Pretty amazing work. You have to feel pretty good about yourself getting this project over the finish line with positive results! Now keep your friends out of the driver's seat

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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 11:57 AM
  #385  
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Good stuff dude; +1 for vids when it's dry out.
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 05:24 PM
  #386  
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Poor traction you say..

Justonjacks
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Old Sep 15, 2014 | 08:03 AM
  #387  
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Justin, where you at?
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 12:14 PM
  #388  
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video showing a warm start up with no check engine lights at 71800 miles.

ive had about 200-300 miles of seat time since the swap. so far so good.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 12:20 PM
  #389  
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couple of rev's post swap.

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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 12:30 PM
  #390  
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
Justin, where you at?
I would suspect in the ocean floor or somewhere where other crabs are...?
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 12:36 PM
  #391  
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or someones dinner.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 12:47 PM
  #392  
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taken on 6/7/14




showing multiple misfire's.
and the reason why i skipped the compression and leak down test.


Currently, 9/20/14 showing NO CEL's!
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 12:58 PM
  #393  
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 04:31 PM
  #394  
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I do have one problem tho.



last night, i stopped by a smoke shop and I couldnt start my car!

I kept trying and trying and finally it started.
this morning, it did the same thing.

I noticed it started when I put it in first gear this morning.
maybe its my battery.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 04:38 PM
  #395  
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Or maybe starter?
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 04:42 PM
  #396  
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Originally Posted by Aman
Or maybe starter?
when I had my car apart, I totally thought about changing the alternator and the starter just because I was right there anyway.
its an '06 and parts do go out.

I dont wanna fuck with my car any more
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 04:59 PM
  #397  
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From: Waffles, BU
Originally Posted by justnspace
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMgH...EHPRN4wKMfbe-A

video showing a warm start up with no check engine lights at 71800 miles.

ive had about 200-300 miles of seat time since the swap. so far so good.

I was like.. are you going to start it.. fucking engine is too silent.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 05:10 PM
  #398  
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also, it might have a slight exhaust leak.

I want to pull the rear pre-cat delete to check. but i'm tired of the engine...

today, I washed and clay'ed the car.
and tomorrow, I'll put a protective layer of sealant on.
Just in time for winter.

I'll pull the rear cat-delete some time soon to check for cracks.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 05:17 PM
  #399  
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Glad you're back up and running. Great job.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 05:35 PM
  #400  
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I don't think there's a neutral switch between ignition switch. If it doesn't start again, knock the starter to see if that does the trick.
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