Intermediate shaft
12-20-2017, 02:10 AM
#1
Intermediate shaft
My passenger side axle snapped pretty much in half thanks to rust. Question is should intermediate shaft or half shaft also be replaced while replacing axle?
12-20-2017, 08:31 AM
#2
Race Director
Unlikely that it needs replacing. Most just replace the axle/s without further issues.
12-20-2017, 09:40 AM
#3
12-20-2017, 12:53 PM
#5
Race Director
Seem to be fine, although there are some negative reviews.
Nope, shouldn't have to.
There is a set of Duralast axles for sale in the BM (6MT / Type S):
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-par...-trans-962944/
Nope, shouldn't have to.
There is a set of Duralast axles for sale in the BM (6MT / Type S):
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-par...-trans-962944/
12-20-2017, 01:11 PM
#6
12-20-2017, 01:15 PM
#7
What would be the best aftermarket brand aside from raxles? Raxles wants 300 each for axles and won't accept my cores since well one is snapped obviously and the other since I'm in the rust belt.
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12-23-2017, 08:40 AM
#8
Head a da Family
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Just buy new (not rebuilt) ones from rockauto. There are several brands to choose from like APWI and Cardone that come with full warranties. I'm sure Raxles is a reliable brand, but to buy rebuilds from them when you can buy brand new ones from an Acura dealer for about the same or less doesn't work for me. This should be telling you something! Even Paul, our star mechanic in Northern NJ recommends buying new, not rebuilt shafts as he's seen too many rebuilt ones go South quickly. That also goes for my best buddy from high school who owned an auto parts store for 25 years who claims he'd NEVER put rebuilt axles in any of his cars.
Raxles drive shafts are like Starbucks coffee - overrated and overpriced.
.
.
Raxles drive shafts are like Starbucks coffee - overrated and overpriced.
.
.
Last edited by DMZ; 12-23-2017 at 08:42 AM.
12-23-2017, 02:51 PM
#9
Agreed. 300 for rebuilt just doesn't make sense to me. No matter how special the grease or joints are. Still rebuilt. While I'm in there replacing the drivers side axle would it be wise to replace the seal on the transmission even if it's not leaking? Or should I leave well enough alone? Does the seal go in with like a rubber mallet or does it require some special tool?
12-24-2017, 06:34 AM
#10
I wouldn't replace the seal if it's not leaking.
The Surtrak from RockAuto comes with a lifetime warranty. That however isn't indicative of quality, but just that no costs will be
incurred in the future should the axle assembly need replacement.
Use 7485273215713113 in how did you hear about us and receive a 5% discount on parts.
The Surtrak from RockAuto comes with a lifetime warranty. That however isn't indicative of quality, but just that no costs will be
incurred in the future should the axle assembly need replacement.
Use 7485273215713113 in how did you hear about us and receive a 5% discount on parts.
12-24-2017, 05:52 PM
#11
I wouldn't replace the seal if it's not leaking.
The Surtrak from RockAuto comes with a lifetime warranty. That however isn't indicative of quality, but just that no costs will be
incurred in the future should the axle assembly need replacement.
Use 7485273215713113 in how did you hear about us and receive a 5% discount on parts.
The Surtrak from RockAuto comes with a lifetime warranty. That however isn't indicative of quality, but just that no costs will be
incurred in the future should the axle assembly need replacement.
Use 7485273215713113 in how did you hear about us and receive a 5% discount on parts.
Thanks for that code. I'm just confused if I should go oem or aftermarket. I've been reading about some members on here having issues with aftermarket axles with automatic transmissions.
12-24-2017, 06:55 PM
#12
I had two aftermarkets pop out and leave me stranded. Insisted dealership use OEM and all has been fine.
12-24-2017, 09:45 PM
#15
12-24-2017, 10:00 PM
#16
Race Director
And re: Raxles. The shafts are used OEM shafts. The joints and grease are proprietary from Raxles. I have 287,000 miles on my OEM axles. I see no reason to pay extra for Raxles.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 12-24-2017 at 10:04 PM.
12-25-2017, 02:47 PM
#18
12-25-2017, 05:42 PM
#19
That $300 savings will turn to added costs of replacement parts + replacement labor + time out of your day + headaches if you have shaking and some people will start changing other components further exasperating costs.
12-25-2017, 11:21 PM
#20
Race Director
How long do plan on keeping the car? If it's for another 100K miles, then $300 ($0.003/mile) extra isn't that expensive in relative terms...
12-26-2017, 11:12 AM
#23
It's one thing to run into problems way down the road. Whole different thing when you read about members on here using aftermarket axles and having issues immediately or like 5k into the axles life. Then again you have people who have good experiences with aftermarkets. Plus it's more likely you'll hear about the negative experiences on the internet rather than the positive ones. There's probably a ton of TL's on the road with aftermarket axles doing just fine. But it does seem hit or miss with aftermarkets. Ahhh so confusing lol!
12-30-2017, 06:53 AM
#24
Driving down highway watching transmission fluid blowing back and covering the cars behind me. Pulled over and fluid just draining out of joint. Apparently they would not seat properly. Happened twice until I noticed on the invoice that the part number did not match up with service manual OEM part.
12-30-2017, 08:51 AM
#25
Race Director
^^^^^ Well, you can hardly blame aftermarket parts for that incident....
12-30-2017, 03:24 PM
#27
01-06-2018, 05:04 PM
#28
I've been dealing with a vibration when going 60+ and am planning to replace the axles which seem to be a common issue on Hondas. However, I got under the car earlier today just to look around before ordering parts and noticed that my intermediate shaft carrier bearing is caked in it's own grease. I'm sure there is play in the bearing attributing to my vibrations as well so it looks like I'll be replacing this as well while I'm there.
I'm fine doing a DIY for axles, but does anyone know/has anyone successfully removed the intermediate shaft without removing the J-pipe? I only ask because the nuts on my J-pipe are pretty rusted so if removal is a necessity, I might just have a shop do the entire job.
I'm fine doing a DIY for axles, but does anyone know/has anyone successfully removed the intermediate shaft without removing the J-pipe? I only ask because the nuts on my J-pipe are pretty rusted so if removal is a necessity, I might just have a shop do the entire job.
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