I'm a noob! But need some what of help **TRANNY**
#1
I'm a noob! But need some what of help **TRANNY**
So my rear main seal was leaking and I put it upon myself to fix this problem. Over this long weekend. Well things didnt really go as planned.
This is my first major job like this so Im not sure in some steps to take. Please bare with me.
I was able to change the seal, and other things that should be changed while the transmission is down.
This is where my story goes south! BTW i have an 08 BASE
So after struggling with taking off the subframe alone and pretty much losing all power steering fluid it finally came out. after that I started to disconnect all necessary items around the tranny to be able to pull it out. I finally was able to drop the tranny not really realizing how massively heavy that thing was.
Thats where my first problem started. My brother and I for the life of us can not get the tranny back on. Also both upper motor mounts are broken completely so i need to replace those, passenger side axles pop'd out of its socket, and man the list goes on!
My story can go longer but ill cut to the chase quicker!
1. What steps do i need to take to reinstall the tranny?
2. Should I have put the tranny in nutural?
3. Tranny and ps fluids are completely drained, will i need to fill to top turn on car and refill as necessary?
I think thats all but Im sure ill be posting more questions.
Here just some pictures
This is my first major job like this so Im not sure in some steps to take. Please bare with me.
I was able to change the seal, and other things that should be changed while the transmission is down.
This is where my story goes south! BTW i have an 08 BASE
So after struggling with taking off the subframe alone and pretty much losing all power steering fluid it finally came out. after that I started to disconnect all necessary items around the tranny to be able to pull it out. I finally was able to drop the tranny not really realizing how massively heavy that thing was.
Thats where my first problem started. My brother and I for the life of us can not get the tranny back on. Also both upper motor mounts are broken completely so i need to replace those, passenger side axles pop'd out of its socket, and man the list goes on!
My story can go longer but ill cut to the chase quicker!
1. What steps do i need to take to reinstall the tranny?
2. Should I have put the tranny in nutural?
3. Tranny and ps fluids are completely drained, will i need to fill to top turn on car and refill as necessary?
I think thats all but Im sure ill be posting more questions.
Here just some pictures
#2
Wow..hope you get it all back together correctly. Can't really help much as I wouldn't be brave enough to attempt it myself. But I do hope you can get the concrete driveway clean again
#5
Senior Moderator
I would never think to call anyone a "noob" when they can even attempt to replace a rear main seal
well done OP holy shit!
well done OP holy shit!
#6
Suzuka Master
all of that trouble for a $9.00 part. I wouldn't call you a noob for tackling this job.
Trending Topics
#8
I really wish i would have taken alot more pictures and done a updated DIY but i was so focused in getting it all done and over with. Ill post whatever pictures..
If anyone has any questions for future guys doing this please PM me and i will help as much as i can
#9
Problem!!!
So after checking if everything was where it should be, i touch this part
and come to find out the part that is circled pretty much is completely loose and falls off! This thing cost $200 bucks!!!!! Can it be fix to re-tighten it and get it working properly again???
Really dont want to fork out $200 for this
and come to find out the part that is circled pretty much is completely loose and falls off! This thing cost $200 bucks!!!!! Can it be fix to re-tighten it and get it working properly again???
Really dont want to fork out $200 for this
#10
Pro
Its a linear solenoid and when they fall apart the only thing you can do is buy a new one. Your trans will not shift properly without it.
I recommend getting the oem solenoid.
I recommend getting the oem solenoid.
#11
Drifting
So after checking if everything was where it should be, i touch this part
and come to find out the part that is circled pretty much is completely loose and falls off! This thing cost $200 bucks!!!!! Can it be fix to re-tighten it and get it working properly again???
Really dont want to fork out $200 for this
and come to find out the part that is circled pretty much is completely loose and falls off! This thing cost $200 bucks!!!!! Can it be fix to re-tighten it and get it working properly again???
Really dont want to fork out $200 for this
If you have to replace... definitely use OEM.
Last edited by 01acls; 05-29-2015 at 01:42 AM.
#13
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
That's solenoid C right?
Try finding it off a totaled car
Try finding it off a totaled car
#14
Was able to get a used one for super cheap! That wreck yard saved my life hahaha.
Also car is back together and running. But one thing bothers me.
I can hear the transmission gears moving while I'm driving. Is this normal? I'm sure it's not. Where exactly should the tranny fluid level be on the dip stick when it's cold?
I'm going to do another fluid change next week hopefully that fixes the sound im hear.
Lastly, does anyone recommend adding like a fluid maintainer "thicker fluid" to the tranny. My car has 115k miles and that Honda atf is really thin. Thoughts??
Thanks!
Also car is back together and running. But one thing bothers me.
I can hear the transmission gears moving while I'm driving. Is this normal? I'm sure it's not. Where exactly should the tranny fluid level be on the dip stick when it's cold?
I'm going to do another fluid change next week hopefully that fixes the sound im hear.
Lastly, does anyone recommend adding like a fluid maintainer "thicker fluid" to the tranny. My car has 115k miles and that Honda atf is really thin. Thoughts??
Thanks!
#15
Don't add the "thicker fluid". With doing a big job like this, you should really invest in a factory service manual! It will tell you everything you need, especially important torque values etc. It is really worth the cost.
You aren't supposed to check the AFT level when cold. You're supposed to warm the engine up to operating temperature.
After warming to operating temperature, turn the car off and check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds of shutting it off.
Remove yellow dipstick, wipe clean, re-insert dipstick & remove again. The fluid should be between the 2 dots. Between the two dots it should say "HOT".
I would not drive on this until you verify the fluid is at the correct level!
You aren't supposed to check the AFT level when cold. You're supposed to warm the engine up to operating temperature.
After warming to operating temperature, turn the car off and check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds of shutting it off.
Remove yellow dipstick, wipe clean, re-insert dipstick & remove again. The fluid should be between the 2 dots. Between the two dots it should say "HOT".
I would not drive on this until you verify the fluid is at the correct level!
The following users liked this post:
GOOSEej (06-01-2015)
#16
Don't add the "thicker fluid". With doing a big job like this, you should really invest in a factory service manual! It will tell you everything you need, especially important torque values etc. It is really worth the cost.
You aren't supposed to check the AFT level when cold. You're supposed to warm the engine up to operating temperature.
After warming to operating temperature, turn the car off and check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds of shutting it off.
Remove yellow dipstick, wipe clean, re-insert dipstick & remove again. The fluid should be between the 2 dots. Between the two dots it should say "HOT".
I would not drive on this until you verify the fluid is at the correct level!
You aren't supposed to check the AFT level when cold. You're supposed to warm the engine up to operating temperature.
After warming to operating temperature, turn the car off and check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds of shutting it off.
Remove yellow dipstick, wipe clean, re-insert dipstick & remove again. The fluid should be between the 2 dots. Between the two dots it should say "HOT".
I would not drive on this until you verify the fluid is at the correct level!
Whoops ive been driving the car around. I need it. But i did check the fluid when the car is hot and it read just past over the 2nd hole.
when its cold looks like its reading right at the 1st hole.
But i will definitely double check it like you say. And will get my hands on a service manual.
#17
here are pictures of where im finding my tranny fluid to be....
What should i do? Its past the HOT mark
Here is the dip stick with no fluid but still marked it where I see fluid when i take it out..
This is the line where there is actual fluid after taking the dip stick out and few times and cleaning it.
What should i do? Its past the HOT mark
Here is the dip stick with no fluid but still marked it where I see fluid when i take it out..
This is the line where there is actual fluid after taking the dip stick out and few times and cleaning it.
#18
According to the FSM, if the level is above the upper mark, you should drain ATF to the proper level. "If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is above the upper mark, the vehicle may creep forward while in N position, or have shifting problems."
The following users liked this post:
GOOSEej (06-01-2015)
#20
I don't think you need to drain it all. Just enough to get in between the two dots. Just loosen the bolt enough so it comes out slowly and re-tighten.
When you re-fill, it isn't right on 3 quarts exactly. I had to add more than 3 or less than 3 the last time I did it. Can't remember which. Just keep an eye on the dipstick level to gauge where you're at. Remember, the level will change a bit once you get up to temperature, so probably aim for the lower dot and re-adjust the level after bringing the car to temp. Getting it in-between the two dots in the end is all you need to do.
When you re-fill, it isn't right on 3 quarts exactly. I had to add more than 3 or less than 3 the last time I did it. Can't remember which. Just keep an eye on the dipstick level to gauge where you're at. Remember, the level will change a bit once you get up to temperature, so probably aim for the lower dot and re-adjust the level after bringing the car to temp. Getting it in-between the two dots in the end is all you need to do.
#22
Suzuka Master
yes you can drain the ATF just like engine oil.
#23
Senior Moderator
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post