How to replace a HID igniter?
08-17-2011, 11:42 PM
#1
How to replace a HID igniter?
Mechanic has diagnosed a bad HID igniter. He recommends replacing igniter and ballast at the same time. I have the front bumper off and the headlight assembly out. I can see the ballast. But where is the igniter? How do I get to it? How do I replace it?
I've searched for instructions on this forum and elsewhere, but I have not found any that show enough detail.
I've searched for instructions on this forum and elsewhere, but I have not found any that show enough detail.
08-18-2011, 04:44 PM
#4
Here's a question, now that I've been searching all over the net. If I use an after-market HID kit, I won't even have to bother with the igniter, correct? The kit will have it's own?
08-18-2011, 06:29 PM
#5
A kit should have everything you need. Just do both sides to maintain even color. Once you have the light assembly out replacing the ignitor only takes a few minutes. It's the wire with the component on the end that goes from the ballast to the light. I just replaced mine. I almost used an aftermarket kit because they are cheaper than a new ignitor, but I found a new OEM ignitor on eBay for $70.
08-18-2011, 09:31 PM
#6
Okay, thanks!
So basically, from the research I've done....
Aftermarket conversion kits are cheaper than buying the OEM components. But...
1. To use an aftermarket kit, you'd have to replace the ballast along with the igniter. And no aftermarket ballast has the igniter connection on "top" of the ballast in the same way the OEM does - which means you can't use the OEM hole to connect the igniter to the bulb - which means you have to drill a hole in the headlight assembly to make it work.
2. No aftermarket ballast has the same type of connector the OEM one has to the car wiring, so you have to cut the connector off and splice the wires together.
Does this sound correct?
Of course, I'm still facing the pesky problem of finding a Torx T20 driver with the "tamper proof" hole in the middle either way....
So basically, from the research I've done....
Aftermarket conversion kits are cheaper than buying the OEM components. But...
1. To use an aftermarket kit, you'd have to replace the ballast along with the igniter. And no aftermarket ballast has the igniter connection on "top" of the ballast in the same way the OEM does - which means you can't use the OEM hole to connect the igniter to the bulb - which means you have to drill a hole in the headlight assembly to make it work.
2. No aftermarket ballast has the same type of connector the OEM one has to the car wiring, so you have to cut the connector off and splice the wires together.
Does this sound correct?
Of course, I'm still facing the pesky problem of finding a Torx T20 driver with the "tamper proof" hole in the middle either way....
08-20-2011, 12:43 AM
#7
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Okay, thanks!
So basically, from the research I've done....
Aftermarket conversion kits are cheaper than buying the OEM components. But...
1. To use an aftermarket kit, you'd have to replace the ballast along with the igniter. And no aftermarket ballast has the igniter connection on "top" of the ballast in the same way the OEM does - which means you can't use the OEM hole to connect the igniter to the bulb - which means you have to drill a hole in the headlight assembly to make it work.
2. No aftermarket ballast has the same type of connector the OEM one has to the car wiring, so you have to cut the connector off and splice the wires together.
Does this sound correct?
Of course, I'm still facing the pesky problem of finding a Torx T20 driver with the "tamper proof" hole in the middle either way....
So basically, from the research I've done....
Aftermarket conversion kits are cheaper than buying the OEM components. But...
1. To use an aftermarket kit, you'd have to replace the ballast along with the igniter. And no aftermarket ballast has the igniter connection on "top" of the ballast in the same way the OEM does - which means you can't use the OEM hole to connect the igniter to the bulb - which means you have to drill a hole in the headlight assembly to make it work.
2. No aftermarket ballast has the same type of connector the OEM one has to the car wiring, so you have to cut the connector off and splice the wires together.
Does this sound correct?
Of course, I'm still facing the pesky problem of finding a Torx T20 driver with the "tamper proof" hole in the middle either way....
I did it last week - don't bother trying to find a tamperproof Torx driver... haha you'll be looking forever. I just took a small Dremel bit with a cutting head and cut a slot into the head of the bolt and used a slotted screwdriver. Easy as could be
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