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I'm trying to troubleshoot an AC issue - I've replaced the relay and appropriate fuses as a precaution. I want to add R134 but the compressor clutch isn't engaging at all - I've read that it may not engage due to having low refrigerant levels, etc.. The R134 instructions says to add half a can or so to force the clutch to engage, but I'd like to see if I can force it to engage by bypassing the relay or jumping it. (I did add some R134, but felt uncomfortable adding the 1/2 can since the pressure gauge read REALLY high from the start.)
Of course, I'm electrically illiterate so I need to double check what I'm doing!!! I've seen discussion and diagrams and it appears that I need to place a jumper wire between sockets 1 and 2 after removing the relay- correct? Then, start the car and AC to see if the compressor has engaged, right? Sorry for the stupidity - trying to avoid taking it into a service station. If the compressor still doesn't engage then, I guess I'll know it is time to trade it! (171K, 2005 original owner who knows she is on borrowed time and doesn't want to sink a fortune into a new compressor!) I've actually seen a youtube video where someone ran a jumper cable from the positive battery terminal to the specific sockets - is that pretty much the same thing? Thanks for your help here!
BTW - I did run the diagnostics and only came up with DTC code Q, related to an 'open or short in the passenger's mode control motor circuit'.... but doubt that is causing this problem. Symptoms: No cool air from AC, both fans run but I don't think the compressor is kicking in at all. If I lower the cool all the way down to LO, the vents blow stronger as if trying to supply more cool air, but it never cools.
DO NOT FILL IT ANYMORE! If its reading high, it could be that the freon PRESSURE SWITCH is not functional. The pressure switch allows the freon to go to the compressor when there is appropriate levels of freon. The line may be full of freon, but your pressure switch could not be operational; the switch could be bad. Test your pressure switch.
To jumper I don't think you even need to have the key in the car. Pin 1 in the socket comes from Fuse 12 which is pretty much right from the battery (after the main fuse #22 under hood) As you jumper and un-jumper you should be able to hear the AC clutch click/thunk. Since both your fans are turning on/off with AC on/off it's a good bet that your clutch or wiring to it is the issue. I don't think the fans would even get energized if the charge was low.
Here is what you are doing. Red line is the circuit in play. Blue circle is where you do jumper
The situation I had was obvious current flowing in the clutch as evidenced by small sparks when jumpering/un-jumpering but no clutch click/thunk. In my case the field coil in the AC clutch was no longer able to pull in the worn clutch (increased gap). It was a Honda CR-V but it all still applies to the TL equally.
I'm seeing the sparking when I attempt the jump, but I haven't really completed it as I was a tad put off by that. (told you I was electrical illiterate ) I'll try again this morning. Per this advice, I've diagrams of where the pressure sensor is, but I'm not sure I see it or know how to get to it. It is underneath the shroud that comes across the top of the radiator? I removed that before to remove the bumper, but just could use some help pinpointing how to get to it. Since I have no volt meter, I'll likely just replace it as the next step if I get no clicking from the condenser with the jump. Thanks
I'm seeing the sparking when I attempt the jump, but I haven't really completed it as I was a tad put off by that. (told you I was electrical illiterate ) I'll try again this morning. Per this advice, I've diagrams of where the pressure sensor is, but I'm not sure I see it or know how to get to it. It is underneath the shroud that comes across the top of the radiator? I removed that before to remove the bumper, but just could use some help pinpointing how to get to it. Since I have no volt meter, I'll likely just replace it as the next step if I get no clicking from the condenser with the jump. Thanks
Don't necessarily be put off by the sparks. But if you see sparks when you connect/disconnect jumper and then hear no click/clunck at the AC compressor then your AC clutch is very likely bad. Very common problem actually. The field coil either weakens and/or the clutch plate gap increases and it just doesn't engage anymore.
For the pressure sensor not sure where it is and I don't think you even need to go there yet. Replacing it may require evac/recharge of system so IMO don't go there yet. Again, since both fans go on when you put AC on inside car I don't think charge is your issue.
Thanks - No click when I jumped it, so I'm likely at the end of my (personal) rope as far as investment since I'm not comfortable replacing it myself. I thought the pressure switch/sensor was next in line before the compressor, so I figured I could attempt that next, however, I guess the jump bypassed that altogether. I now have the 2004 service manual and will see what else is recommended.... Not sure of the actual cost to replace it at the dealership, but it is decision time re: new vehicle. Love this car!
Last edited by Tucky512; 04-21-2017 at 09:05 AM.
Reason: graphic messed up
Thanks - No click when I jumped it, so I'm likely at the end of my (personal) rope as far as investment since I'm not comfortable replacing it myself. I thought the pressure switch/sensor was next in line before the compressor, so I figured I could attempt that next, however, I guess the jump bypassed that altogether. I now have the 2004 service manual and will see what else is recommended.... Not sure of the actual cost to replace it at the dealership, but it is decision time re: new vehicle. Love this car!
If the dealership also thinks its the compressor clutch they will want to swap it out with a reman compressor and clutch. That will mean the system has to be purged prior and recharged after the replacement. All in all I think that's in the $1000 range (someone I know spent $800 to do same job on a comparable Honda at dealer last summer. So tack on $200 for Acura). The up-side would be you will have a warranty of 1 year on the compressor and a working system when you leave. To just have the clutch and field coil replaced on the compressor will be less but a dealership will usually not do that job. You could probably get an indie mech to do it in the $500-$600 range. The up-side to just doing the clutch and coil is you don't have to break the refrigerant circuit open so less labor and material costs. But you must have confidence that the system otherwise works once you replace the clutch and field coil. I'm not sure you have that confidence yet. Me? I'd probably find a reputable auto AC place and get a quote from them and a dealer. (Honda dealer may also be able to do and potentially lower rates than Acura dealer)
Always the option to use 485 air conditioning. 4 open windows at 85mph. I did that when I was younger but don't know that I could do that anymore.
But thats only if you want to try & tackle it yourself. Its not too difficult, the only difficult part is removing the clips. Theres a another way to test the field coil in the manual using the volt meter; if the coil doesn't reach a certain ohm, then you know its the field coil.
Does the 05 Accord use the same AC parts as our 3G TLs? Can you recommend any place that sells "reconditioned, certified as new" compressors/stator sets/clutch sets? I got a HID Controller that way and paid $90 or so vs the $280 Delray/acuraoemparts.com wanted for NEW back then. (I did look at Delray and NEW compressor = $500, stator set = $96.91 and clutch set = $188.26. Don't know which I'll need at this point.) I haven't taken the car in for quotes yet, but a few places recommended by friends as being fair MAY appreciate it if I can get the parts, so I'm preparing. ....Might even give them the relevant service manual sections. Advice appreciated once again!
'05 Accord same as 3G TL.
Take a look at Rock Auto and use code 6180929615713113 in "How did you hear about us" and receive a 5% discount on parts.
Expire 7/2/17
If the dealership also thinks its the compressor clutch they will want to swap it out with a reman compressor and clutch. That will mean the system has to be purged prior and recharged after the replacement. All in all I think that's in the $1000 range (someone I know spent $800 to do same job on a comparable Honda at dealer last summer. So tack on $200 for Acura). The up-side would be you will have a warranty of 1 year on the compressor and a working system when you leave. To just have the clutch and field coil replaced on the compressor will be less but a dealership will usually not do that job. You could probably get an indie mech to do it in the $500-$600 range. The up-side to just doing the clutch and coil is you don't have to break the refrigerant circuit open so less labor and material costs. But you must have confidence that the system otherwise works once you replace the clutch and field coil. I'm not sure you have that confidence yet. Me? I'd probably find a reputable auto AC place and get a quote from them and a dealer. (Honda dealer may also be able to do and potentially lower rates than Acura dealer)
Always the option to use 485 air conditioning. 4 open windows at 85mph. I did that when I was younger but don't know that I could do that anymore.
Adobeman - can you recommend a site for remanufactured/certified as new parts? Just hoping to get through this summer with AC before selling by next summer.
Does the 05 Accord use the same AC parts as our 3G TLs? Can you recommend any place that sells "reconditioned, certified as new" compressors/stator sets/clutch sets? I got a HID Controller that way and paid $90 or so vs the $280 Delray/acuraoemparts.com wanted for NEW back then. (I did look at Delray and NEW compressor = $500, stator set = $96.91 and clutch set = $188.26. Don't know which I'll need at this point.) I haven't taken the car in for quotes yet, but a few places recommended by friends as being fair MAY appreciate it if I can get the parts, so I'm preparing. ....Might even give them the relevant service manual sections. Advice appreciated once again!
It cost me around $500 to have the A/C field coil replaced at the dealer. FYI.
Another in a series of my questions .... If you buy a compressor, does it already include everything, such as the stator set and clutch set? From a parts diagram I'm trying to paste in here (not sure if it will work), it seems to be the case. If # 3 is the compressor, and in the exploding diagrams, #9 is the clutch set and 12 is the stator set, it does appear that the compressor includes all. Just trying to be informed for when they tell me what parts they feel need to be changed. Again, any suggestions for remanufactured AC parts for Honda Accord /Acura TL is appreciated.
DO NOT FILL IT ANYMORE! If its reading high, it could be that the freon PRESSURE SWITCH is not functional. The pressure switch allows the freon to go to the compressor when there is appropriate levels of freon. The line may be full of freon, but your pressure switch could not be operational; the switch could be bad. Test your pressure switch.
Where is the Pressure switch located!!! im having a similar issue!
OK. I am working on my son's 2005 Acura TL and had the same problem with the A/C clutch not engaging. Fuses were fine, replace A/C relay because it is a super cheap risk, and still no power to the A/C clutch. I removed the inner fender well to see if I could test the connection to the clutch, but no freaking room. I was able to disconnect it but not able to get a test light to it. I was ready to order the clutch assembly but had to put things back together so he could drive it the next day. Then I thought about jumping the relay to check it and found this thread.
I had 12 volts to the pin in the relay and then used a jumper wire to the 2nd pin. Clutch relay engaged, started it up and turned the a/c switch on & off a few times and the clutch engaged and disengaged like it should. I put the relay back in and now the clutch seems to work fine..... My son will drive it tomorrow and see if it is still engaging.
Any thoughts? Did jumping it connect the circuit temporarily?
After jumping the relay and hearing the clutch engage (both by sound and watching the compressor). As I mentioned on the last post, I put the relay back in and the clutch engages like normal now. I can see it spinning (compressor and clutch) but the a/c is not cold. Besides low freon, could it be something else? I talked to our local A/C repair shop (highly reputable and been in business for 50 years), they said it was rare that the compressor fails on the Acuras and the clutch was most likely the problem. This conversation was before I jumped it and got the clutch spinning.
Any ideas? Does something else have to kick on for the a/c to get cold. Fans blows on all speeds.
After jumping the relay and hearing the clutch engage (both by sound and watching the compressor). As I mentioned on the last post, I put the relay back in and the clutch engages like normal now. I can see it spinning (compressor and clutch) but the a/c is not cold. Besides low freon, could it be something else? I talked to our local A/C repair shop (highly reputable and been in business for 50 years), they said it was rare that the compressor fails on the Acuras and the clutch was most likely the problem. This conversation was before I jumped it and got the clutch spinning.
Any ideas? Does something else have to kick on for the a/c to get cold. Fans blows on all speeds.
Yes. I took it into an automotive repair shop that had a special on air conditioning services. They were almost worthless. After leaving it with them all day, I called up at 4pm to find out if the car was ready. The mechanic replied that the a/c clutch was not engaging so they could not service it .......reallly, that's why I took it to them and told them that the clutch was not engaging! But he did mention that it was low on freon (not sure how they check that if the clutch won't engage. So I went to the local auto parts store and purchased a $25 can of freon that has the fill attachment on it and it works like a charm. Plenty of youtube videos on how to charge it yourself. Very easy.
Yes. I took it into an automotive repair shop that had a special on air conditioning services. They were almost worthless. After leaving it with them all day, I called up at 4pm to find out if the car was ready. The mechanic replied that the a/c clutch was not engaging so they could not service it .......reallly, that's why I took it to them and told them that the clutch was not engaging! But he did mention that it was low on freon (not sure how they check that if the clutch won't engage. So I went to the local auto parts store and purchased a $25 can of freon that has the fill attachment on it and it works like a charm. Plenty of youtube videos on how to charge it yourself. Very easy.
pull the 7.5a for the mg,clutch and replace with a new fuse With the relay pulled. Then jump the relay. It should work as long as it filled. If it works then put the relay back if it continues to act up replace relay.
My AC decided to stop working.... I checked the AC clutch when car is on, no longer engaged. I tried to do so manually with relay jump (when car is off), still nothing. I bought a $30 refill with gauge, connected to low and PSI reads at 125, so I did not put any in at all.
Car is a 2006, with 224k on it. I've had it since 32k, never had AC issues before.
Given the cars age, would replacing the whole ac clutch/compressor be my best route? Not sure what else I could test/check here.
I did have my timing belt/water pump/spark plugs changed about 3 months ago, so definitely not going to get rid of the car. Other than that, all is working well.
Also, I will obviously not turn the AC on, but should I alleviate some of that pressure off the low hose?
Jump it when the car is in acc. If you’ve have the problems since 32k i would replace it. But try and get the compressor from the dealer. I paid 400 at Autozone and my car squeal when Ac is engaged.
Jump it when the car is in acc. If you’ve have the problems since 32k i would replace it. But try and get the compressor from the dealer. I paid 400 at Autozone and my car squeal when Ac is engaged.
The problem just started. AC was working fine until now.
Let me go check....
I jumped the low pressure switch located on the dryer. There is only 2 wires so it is simple. Yes, car was running and the compressor engaged. I hooked up the freon can with the guage while it was jumped. It took one can and works like a champ.
04-19-2017, 03:23 PM
) I'll try again this morning. Per this advice, I've diagrams of where the pressure sensor is, but I'm not sure I see it or know how to get to it. It is underneath the shroud that comes across the top of the radiator? I removed that before to remove the bumper, but just could use some help pinpointing how to get to it. Since I have no volt meter, I'll likely just replace it as the next step if I get no clicking from the condenser with the jump. Thanks
.... If you buy a compressor, does it already include everything, such as the stator set and clutch set? From a parts diagram I'm trying to paste in here (not sure if it will work), it seems to be the case. If # 3 is the compressor, and in the exploding diagrams, #9 is the clutch set and 12 is the stator set, it does appear that the compressor includes all. Just trying to be informed for when they tell me what parts they feel need to be changed. Again, any suggestions for remanufactured AC parts for Honda Accord /Acura TL is appreciated.
