How to decrease the heat from the oem 3g engine?

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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 07:09 AM
  #41  
CometVR4's Avatar
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From: Miamisburg, Ohio
Maybe a colder thermostat?
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 10:29 AM
  #42  
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From: Clearwater Fl
Originally Posted by CometVR4
Maybe a colder thermostat?
I think you would want the engine to operate at its nominal temperature, not colder, I think his point was more to decrease heat under the hood.

I saw a new mustang without a hood the other day...
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 11:39 AM
  #43  
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From: Bakersfield
Originally Posted by CometVR4
Maybe a colder thermostat?
I thought of that too. It's just very risky on a newer car to run it cooler. I would be willing to experiment with a 10 degree cooler thermostat but nothing more. You will quickly run into cylinder bore and ring wear issues if you run it too cool, not to mention computer related issues that may pop up.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 03:07 PM
  #44  
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From: Clearwater Fl
Originally Posted by I hate cars
I thought of that too. It's just very risky on a newer car to run it cooler. I would be willing to experiment with a 10 degree cooler thermostat but nothing more. You will quickly run into cylinder bore and ring wear issues if you run it too cool, not to mention computer related issues that may pop up.
+1 on that, but I don't think 195F is excessive for internal water temp.

But, I thought the point of the OP was to decrease temp under the hood, if you run a lower thermostat, all you do is run more fluid through the radiator, which puts hotter air under the hood, so you still don't get a 100% win situation there [as far as the intended outcome of this thread].
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 03:23 PM
  #45  
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From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by Majofo
I'm surprised by your opinion on Royal P motor oil.. Do you mind passing along any links you may have so I can do some further research? I was going to do an oil analysis after my next fill. From my research I've seen nothing but positive user results. I did find two shops close to me that sold redline but the price was about $6 more / qt so I stuck with RP.
Yes here

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...e#post10789056
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 03:39 PM
  #46  
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From: Waffles, BU
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
damn they took a beating.. lol. I'm happy with it but I'll let my wallet do the judging on the next fill. I know Champion Labs makes the RP filter, so is there any reason why the RP filter is a few bucks more than the M1 filter? They look exactly the same.. I tried researching this topic through Champ Labs and on other forums but couldn't find any evidence of a difference or comparison.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 04:47 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Majofo
damn they took a beating.. lol. I'm happy with it but I'll let my wallet do the judging on the next fill. I know Champion Labs makes the RP filter, so is there any reason why the RP filter is a few bucks more than the M1 filter? They look exactly the same.. I tried researching this topic through Champ Labs and on other forums but couldn't find any evidence of a difference or comparison.
RP filters are awesome. Much better than the M1 filters. RP, Amsoil and Donaldson use a full synthetic glass media. Much better filtration AND flow. They have much more loading capacity so extended drains are fine, up to 20,000 miles.

M1 filter uses a semi-syn media and most of them have signifigantly less media area for a given can size.

I run the RP filter over Amsoil because the anti drainback valves seem to hold better on the RP filters. I'm also one of the rare ones that run it for 2 OCIs.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #48  
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From: Waffles, BU
Originally Posted by I hate cars
RP filters are awesome. Much better than the M1 filters. RP, Amsoil and Donaldson use a full synthetic glass media. Much better filtration AND flow. They have much more loading capacity so extended drains are fine, up to 20,000 miles.

M1 filter uses a semi-syn media and most of them have signifigantly less media area for a given can size.

I run the RP filter over Amsoil because the anti drainback valves seem to hold better on the RP filters. I'm also one of the rare ones that run it for 2 OCIs.
wow.. I've always preached for in between filter change on a extended OCI. I'm going to research this much more. Thanks for the input.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 11:34 PM
  #49  
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From: Bakersfield
Originally Posted by Majofo
wow.. I've always preached for in between filter change on a extended OCI. I'm going to research this much more. Thanks for the input.
Typically, if the engine is in good health, loading of the media is the least of your concerns. Cardboard end caps, cheap glue, and rubber ADBVs are the problem with extended changes. I know for a fact that some of the Amsoil filters have been tested for upwards of 60,000 miles without excessive pressure differential.

For someone like me who's completely OCD, it took a lot of will power to leave the filter on for 15,000 miles. I cut the first one apart and there is no visible debris, the silicone ADBV was still pliable and no signs of fatigue at all. I know that not all debris is visible though.
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 12:29 AM
  #50  
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no one has answered me....

does removing the felt lined on the inner hood do anything for heat reduction? and their any cons to do this in a canadian climate?

does removing the plastic cosmetic peices do anything for heat reduction?
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #51  
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From: Clearwater Fl
Originally Posted by davewhodavedunn
no one has answered me....

does removing the felt lined on the inner hood do anything for heat reduction? and their any cons to do this in a canadian climate?

does removing the plastic cosmetic peices do anything for heat reduction?
don't be so difficult, atleast now you know about Royal Purple

I think either of those things would have a fairly minor effect on under hood temps [especially at low speeds... u know cruizing down Yonge and Dundas street], because removing them doesn't really help air move around. The hood lining might help dissipate the heat a bit against the hood, so maybe it's better to leave it on for the sake of your paint/finish.
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