home4sale2

So, to sum up this thread. There's a way to remove the module, bake it in the oven (i have done that with a motherboard before and i have seen it work), appears it's hit or miss. Second is to introduce the relay to avoid battery discharge problems but it doesn't fix the HFL problem itself and third is to replace the HFL module itself. Actually a fourth, replace a capacitor.

I have the same problem, HFL is hit or miss, works and then it didn't and now it doesn't work at all and I am concerned about the battery. I will either disconnect it or try one of the other methods. Can someone report if their oven bake method is still working (after a while)? Or replacement? Or replaced the capacitor?

Appreciate if you can share the p/n for the HFL that fits the 2008, if I go the new route.

Thank you.

David_BNSF

iTrader: (1)

Can’t even find new HFL’s anymore anywhere. Been getting some from the local pick n pull with no luck.

home4sale2

Did the bake method, worked for a few days and poof, now it's gone again. I have noticed, it works better when it's cold outside and then the module warms up and goes intermittent and then poofs out. I even drilled a few holes on the plastic enclosure hoping it would help, it didn't. I guess I could liquid cool the board (jk) but it's not worth spending more time on this ridiculous problem Honda/Acura should have recalled on. Time to disconnect.

pohljm

Baked mine today and back working nicely 375 10 mins

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Mine must be a bigger issue. I have tried baking it, swapping it for another one and having it sent out. Nothing works. Oh well.....

B Sc

incomplete answer.

You unplug the module, you ALSO lose ability to use voice control to change temps or do anything needing voice. Yes I appear to be the only one who memorized a few of the commands the car lists you can use to control things you dont want to take your eyes off the road for.

I unplugged my BT to stop battery killing and found this out firsthand.

pohljm

B SC, did you plug in the other two connectors that are in the overhead console? One is for the microphone and the module will not work without it plugged in. I imagine without the microphone no voice commands will be heard.

Momo2006TL

I had the same problem & had to jump my vehicle every time I wanted to go somewhere...after reading thru forums I followed a tip & it solved my problem but not the issue per se..I pulled the interior fuse box fuse #9 I believe (will have to look again it's been awhile) it is a 7.5 fuse. It stopped the draw & I did loose interior lights (no biggie) but also you will loose the keyless entry. There are like 6-7 components that run thru that fuse & I never went further to figure out which item was causing the problem. This should solve the battery issue but will have to go thru the next process to actually fix the problem. I'd be curious to know what it ends up being. Hope this helps


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Legend2TL

FWIW, I'm a electrical engineer and somewhat familiar with SMD technology and soldering. I strongly recommend doing the oven in a convection oven. That's how the extreme majority of SMD PCBA are soldered in manufacturing and reflow for repair. Moving hot air around the SMD components and the PCB helps get a more even distribution of heat to the various soldering points. Use 465-470oF which is just above the lead-free RoHS soldering point.