Gostridr

I have been messing with this for a week and really don't know what to do next. The short version is that I was removing the valve covers to replace a leaky inner spark plug seal. One bolt from each cover was already loose/sheared. With a whole lot of new tools I was able to get the front one out.

The rear one is in a horrible spot but I finally got the extractor engaged and the bolt started to remove! Once it got almost flush with the engine block the MF'n extractor sheared!!! I've been trying to re 'punch' a starter hole to get another drill bit engaged but the angle is crappy. Maybe worse, I had the brilliant idea of trying to JB weld a bolt to the top but had to abort when I couldn't secure the little booger in place. I wiped out what I could and then drenched it in PB blaster.

Is there a tool that will fit back there and create a 'score' mark and I can try and screw it out?

If there is a little dab of JB weld in the threads how screwed am I (wish the pun was intended)?

What are my options moving forward if I can't get this little bastard out?

I am going to comb through the local auto parts/home improvement store to see if I can find a stronger drill bit than I've already been breaking.

Any suggestions GREATLY appreciated!

thanks,
peter

Gostridr

Here is an update for all those that mess with the head cover bolts in the future as our cars get older. I was still having trouble with the sheared one in the back but I decided to re install the cover in the front and take pride in getting part of this put back together. The very last of the five bolts, at the last of a four stage tightening sequence, snapped before I got to recommended torque value. Not sure what is wrong with these bolts but that now makes three out of ten for me that have sheared. First piece of advice is to get all new bolts when you remove your covers, the eight long ones at least, as this is clearly a pattern. Also, as for access and the situation, I highly recommend the right angel drill attachment from Home Depot for $20 if you don't have a right angel drill and the Tungsten Carbide Dremel tip (used in your regular drill). That thing spits out all kinds of metal with ease.

Now I have decided to move forward without removing the sheared bolt in the back. My reasoning is that it was sheared LAST time at the shop that I had the work done and I don't think there was an issue (no leaks at least). Would you put anything on this time around to 'help' the new gasket? The shop DID put some black rubbery stuff on the bolt and bolt gasket itself but nothing on the gasket. This is a gasket that has height and fits in to a groove so I am not sure of the pros and cons of providing it with some liquid gasket reinforcements.

Thanks for any guidance and better luck to you if you find yourself in this situation.

peter

nfnsquared

FWIW, I sheared one of the front center bolts on the rear cover after a valve adjustment. Just left it like that. No issues 12K miles later...

And I definitely recommend a 1/4" torque wrench for those bolts. You have to be very careful with them...

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

Try having one of the bolts that holds the timing belt tensioner in snap in half (removing it) while doing the 105K service... I had to drop the whole engine and cradle down to get a drill in there somehow. I ended up drilling it out and helicoiling it - only added about 4 hours to my project. Oh yeah, then my car caught on fire a few months later

Gostridr

nfn, good to know. What did you use to secure the broken bolt in place? Maybe you had a thread or two to grab but I don't without trying to tap. Is there a gasket/sealant/adhesive that works in this situation?

Turbo,
Thank you for your service! I'm glad I'm not dealing with THAT! I will be tackling that service soon though. Any thoughts on why it happened or what to do to avoid that? Yikes!

nfnsquared

Nothing, I just left the stud in, tossed the bolt head. Filled the hole with gasket sealer (red stuff). Zero leaks, but then again we're not dealing pressure...

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

I have no idea why it broke, it must've been overtightened from the factory is the only thing I can guess... Im 99% sure I was turning it the right way (to loosen it) when it snapped. Id say just spray some PB blaster on all the bolts before removing them just to be safe. Other than that one bolt the job wasnt really that difficult. Took about 7hrs minus the extra time for that one damn bolt