cust0mx

Does anyone know what size the oil drain bolt is? I spent 15 minutes with various tools trying to unscrew the thing and it wouldn't budge. It looks pretty old and the edges are starting to wear, so I know the last owner didn't have it replaced.

I've got the car up on Blitz ramps, but I want to get out from under the car as soon as possible.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

19mm.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Sorry. I meant 17mm.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

This should help you:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/d-i-y-oil-change-pics-3g-garage-c-004-a-599067/

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

17 mm is right.

cust0mx

Thanks!

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

YW!

Hapa DC5

Please use a 6 pt. socket or wrench or else you will round it even more.

01tl4tl

if its trashed- vice grips and hammer to get it out
replace entire plug and new washer for it
a few dollars well spent~

LoveMyTL-S

You may want to replace it with one of these:

http://www.qwikvalve.com/home.php

NAiL05

Not a fan of the quick valve. KInda lazy way out IMO. Not hard on these cars to reach the filter and bolt on these cars. If the edges are rounded use a 6 point 12 mm wrench or socket. Are you turning the right way?

Mug

I've used the Fumoto valve on my wife's car for 4 years now. They are great and it hasn't leaked yet. However, her car has a clear exit for the filter overflow which makes the pan bolt the worst part of changing the oil on that car. And I don't have to jack it up. Just reach under and it's done in 15 minutes.

With the TL, the filter dumps oil all over the control arm. Plus, I have to jack my car up before I can even think of getting under it. So, it's a much bigger job and the valve wouldn't help much.

Best part of the valve is that you can drain the pan and close it. Then do your filter, then let more old oil out. Or, if you overfill, you can easily let more out. Maybe I will get one for the TL.....

piggydog

all hondas I've had were 17mm and the TL is the easiest ever to change the oil. I turn the wheel to right and can stick my arm underneath to remove the filter and drain bolt. 10 min, no need to jack it up.

cust0mx

Anyone know the plug size? I'm about to go down to Napa to buy a 17mm socket, crush washer, and a new plug since it's starting to round off.

nfnsquared

14mm, Acura part no. 90009-PY3-000, $5.25 retail.

Click here for enginge block/oil pan parts list, it's #12

cust0mx

Got everything I need, but the damn plug won't budge at all, even after using a hammer. I called around to shops in my area and they want $65-90 to use synthetic oil. I'm not about to fork over that much money when I can just as easily do the oil change myself, provided I can get this plug out. Any suggestions?

Jiggy2dmax

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried soaking it with some WD-40 or similar for a little? Also, if your careful with it use a pipe into a ratchet if you have enough space. That should get it out but at the same time you risk damaging the head.

Mug

Really? You can reach it just by turning the wheels? I feel dumb.

nfnsquared

Head over to Sears and buy one of these sets that will fit a 17mm bolt head:

Damaged bolt/screw removers

S PAW 1

OP:

Don't bash me, but I want to relate an experience similar to yours about a month or two ago from another member.

He was attempting to turn the bolt in the wrong direction

This is a true story

Just a thought

nfnsquared

Good point:

Lefty loosey......

Righty tighty......

S PAW 1

OP:

Results please.......you can't just post 'n run

Hapa DC5

Pics of the said drain plug please? Let's see how rounded this head is.

SouthernBoy

One more reason to use a torque wrench.

CometVR4

Make sure if you're using a socket wrench, you are pushing the handle away from you towards the right front tire to loosen it.