Hi I am a long time reader of this forum and I have been searching for a solution to my most recent issue.

I have a 2004 TL and I recently got a MIL and the codes were O2 sensor related. I replaced sensors with new OEM sensors and I continue to get a code. The code is P2237 and I know what is supposedly means but I can't believe that I have a bad sensor straight out of the box. I am selling the car as soon as I can get the light off so I don't want to spend a pile of cash, but I do want it fixed. Does anyone have any ideas that might save me an expensive trip to the dealer?

Thanks,

matt

 

Oh and I forgot to mention that I also got a P0134 mixed in there at some point after I replaced the sensors. I have checked the connections and they feel solid and I can't see any obvious damage to the wiring harnesses.

 

bueller? bueller?

 

wow...great response...i thought i'd get something. thanks anyway. i'll try another acura board i guess.

 

I'm having the same problem, don't know if you sold your car by now but i was wondering how your fixed the cel problem after changing the sensor. I replaced it twice thinking it was the sensor that was bad but i am starting to think it something else. Plz let me know, thank you.

 

Welcome and Relax..

You have given a very limited amout of information and with what you provided I will help you best as possible.

DTC P2237: Rear A/F Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) IP Circuit High Voltage (2004-2005 models)
DTC P0134: Rear A/F Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction (2004-2005 models)


Faulty A/F Sensor Can
Cause Multiple DTCsA faulty A/F sensor in a ’03–05 MDX or ’04–05 TL
can cause any or all of these DTCs to set:
• DTC P0134 [rear A/F sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
heater system malfunction]
• DTC P0154 [front A/F sensor (bank 2,
sensor 1) heater system malfunction]
• DTC P2237 [rear A/F sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
IP line high voltage]
• DTC P2240 [front A/F sensor (bank 2,
sensor 1) IP line high voltage]

To fix this problem, check the sensor wiring and
connections for damage. If the sensor circuit is
OK, and the DTC(s) come back after clearing
them and doing a short test-drive, replace the A/F
sensor. The replacement A/F sensors in Honda
parts stock are an improved version over the
original sensor. You may have a bad new sensor
as well. This may also require a PCM update,
just like updating windows PCM's need updating
for certain changes, updated parts..

 

Hi and Thank You 04WD,

My CEL came on so I went to local part store and code P2237 came up so I ordered the part I needed and installed it, CEL never shut off so I had it checked again and now there are 2 codes now P2237, and P0134. I went back to the part store and had the part replaced and then installed once again and the code came back but just the one P2237. Its a Acura TL 04, it was given to me by my parents and I am a college student and don't have much money and I am trying to fix it myself. I checked the wires and everything seems good, if you could help me out more that would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.

 

Did you clear the code after installing the new sensor?

 

lol....that may be the easiest fix of all time....

 

Yes I did clear the code and it came back on 30 seconds after driving.

 

Make sure that you are replacing the right one! There is one before the catalyst and one after/on the catalyst to make sure that it's working properly on each of the banks!

 

So is the sensor on the top of the rear CAT the most probable cause of code P2237 ?? 36531-rca-a02

 

Yes, the A/F sensor is the top one on either cat...the bottom one is just a traditional O2 sensor.

 

Hello folks! I have a 2008 Acura TL 3.2 and need the 02 sensor replaced for the top rear 36531-RCA-A02. Problem is I cannot afford to shell out the 180 the dealer wants for the part so I thinking of Bosh? What do y'all recommend in that?
Secondly if you do recommend the bosh do you. Know the bosh part number or if this part is the rear upstream or downstream.
Is this easily installed if I get a friend to do it?

Thanks!

 

it's pretty easily installed no matter who installs it for you. You need to check what code you're getting...some codes are upper and others are the downstreams.
Here's mine...
part is about 80 and would take all of 20 minutes to swap out.

The bad part about the upstream, is that it affects your air/fuel ratio. I believe the ECU always leans toward rich, too. That might explain why I felt like my car was going to die when leaving the park today...I had to punch it to get it to clear out...but felt like it was super rich. I may be in the market for one of these myself.

 

Based on what I've read, I'd stay away from Bosch. IIRC, you can get the part yourself for less than $100 and DIY on the install. Pretty straight forward. Do a search, someone has already posted a DIY for replacing that sensor.